just got my new scope back from vortex.its crossfire2 4x12x44 sfp with bdc recticul.(vortex is #1 warranty in my books)they were going to send me the crossfire 2 in the same power with the ao option but i asked if i could get the bdc reticle instead.now im thinking i should have stayed with the ao model as i could range and have the option of shooting parallax free at 300 meters(yards).can i deal with parallax easily in the field with the focus ring?or would it really matter for a long shot on a moose?im a bit of an accuracy nut and 4 inchs could null a heart shot into a lung wound which is not how i want to take my meat. if i can.anybody have the patience or links for a simple tutorial. thanks in advance.
parallax? could it matter to a moose?
- Thread starter slewey
- Start date
is there a basic procedure to reduce parallax if my scope is nonadjustable?im not very savvey as now im worried about shooting farther than 100 yrds now that ive learned there could be parralax error.im not snipeing in a battle zone or in a rifle competition, but have just been a lucky shot all these years?3 or 4 inches more in my grouping could result in wounded meat in my case.
As long as you have a consistent cheek weld on the stock and put your head down in the same way every time there will be no parallax error. Even if you can't do that, a scope set at 100 yds will be fine out to much longer distances. The area you will run into parallax problems is for closer range shots.
Most hunting scopes are set @ 100 yds and do not need an adjustable parallax. For hunting big game you are not going to see results by dialing out the parallax when you're taking quick offhand shots at a big slab of meat. Now if you want to pick off a gopher at that range, then dialing out the parallax can help you out. The parallax error is negligible and very few could ever shoot good enough offhand at that range to benefit from it. On a hunting scope for big game it is just extra weight, cost and something else to go wrong or get wrong. And lastly there is a little trick for dealing with parallax error in a fixed parallax scope. Pull your head back until the black ring begins to appear around the FOV. Adjust your head to center the ring around your FOV then hold that position as you slide your head forward for proper eye relief. This is a waste of time while hunting and only useful for LR shooting at small targets or for tiny groups.
Wow. I'm as quilty as the next guy of looking for ways to rationalize a miss or a poor shot. I guess it was only a matter of time before the parallax bogeyman was elevated to such fearful status that people would begin worrying about missing a moose at 300 yards because of it.
As stated by Suputin and supernova, parallax exists only when your eye is not centered in the exit pupil of your scope. If you maintain a consistent cheek-weld that positions your eye properly, in the center of the exit pupil, you will see a nice circular field of view. You might see a nice, even blurry border around it, or none, depending on your eye relief and your scope. If your field of view starts to "black out" on one edge, or if the field of view doesn't appear circular, or the black border around the edge is thicker on one side, then you're not centered, and you may have parallax...but unless you're so off-kilter that you are looking at a reticle that appears to be on the edge of a half-moon shaped field of view, you are not going to affect your accuracy on a 300-yard moose.
Personally, I find that the Coriollis Effect, along with the alignment of the planets, makes a more effective and elegant excuse for missing!
Totally baffles people, too!
As stated by Suputin and supernova, parallax exists only when your eye is not centered in the exit pupil of your scope. If you maintain a consistent cheek-weld that positions your eye properly, in the center of the exit pupil, you will see a nice circular field of view. You might see a nice, even blurry border around it, or none, depending on your eye relief and your scope. If your field of view starts to "black out" on one edge, or if the field of view doesn't appear circular, or the black border around the edge is thicker on one side, then you're not centered, and you may have parallax...but unless you're so off-kilter that you are looking at a reticle that appears to be on the edge of a half-moon shaped field of view, you are not going to affect your accuracy on a 300-yard moose.
Personally, I find that the Coriollis Effect, along with the alignment of the planets, makes a more effective and elegant excuse for missing!
Totally baffles people, too!ive noticed my eyesite losing its luster and have to use a scope for the last few years,ive got about twentey moose trough my pipes and most taken with heart shots with a couple of lung kills over the years, i demand that im capable of a four inch group at 300 yards ,used to do that with my old longbranch with peeps.im just confused and unaware of this ao on a scope and now i see that it isnt more than a nother gimmick,my tula sniper doesnt have any ao ring and those cats were head shooting nazis at extreme ranges.so thanks for the tips i will practice this now that im aware and can keep this in mind.good info. im okay now with my new scope.
- Location
- Prince Albert, Sk
Well a moose is going to have different issues focusing than yourself.Also depending on the size/distance of the moose's intended target will effect things
The proper eye positioning for a moose is much more difficult due to the cheek weld and shouldering of the rifle as well as stability when holding a rifle with a hoof.
The moose typically have poor eye sight which you think would require the use of optics to improve the sight picture and clarity of image when shooting but this isn't the case.Due to the huge pupil that a moose has shooting even at twilight or almost dark is damn near the same as us shooting during daylight hours , so what this equates to is more use of open or fixed iron sights in typical shooting situations for moose.The one major down size is judging distance, due to the positioning of the eyes the game is seldom ranged at the proper distance resulting in a high percentage of misses.
If the use of optics is the choice then they typically choose a low power fixed scope, takes much of the guess work out of the equation.
.........................................................sry, haven't slept yet.
The proper eye positioning for a moose is much more difficult due to the cheek weld and shouldering of the rifle as well as stability when holding a rifle with a hoof.
The moose typically have poor eye sight which you think would require the use of optics to improve the sight picture and clarity of image when shooting but this isn't the case.Due to the huge pupil that a moose has shooting even at twilight or almost dark is damn near the same as us shooting during daylight hours , so what this equates to is more use of open or fixed iron sights in typical shooting situations for moose.The one major down size is judging distance, due to the positioning of the eyes the game is seldom ranged at the proper distance resulting in a high percentage of misses.
If the use of optics is the choice then they typically choose a low power fixed scope, takes much of the guess work out of the equation.
.........................................................sry, haven't slept yet.
ok got it,this is a forum that you may me the brunt of ridicule from the Pharisees of the shooting community,if you ask for advice on a confusing issue in relation to the use and care of firearms ,which is the reason i joined.sorry to effront you "oh great knowledgeable ones." i will desist and ask others more in my sphere of social acceptance.
- Location
- Prince Albert, Sk
Not a thing to do with ridicule.
Look at it as an acceptance and an opportunity for us to "feel ya out". In time you will see that there are many underlying themes and inside jokes.The title as it is read, well, looks like a moose is choosing optics, gotta remember some people are a bit, off. You have a mix of all types on here.We have grammar and spelling nazi's, safety nazi's, ethics nazi's the list goes on and on.
As for your optics and concerns.Sight in for 240-260 dead on, you be good on a moose out to 300-320ish center of chest.Paralax won't be a concern , even if it is out on the vitals the size of an oven door, well, you are gonna hit vital engine components as long as you are steady.Sight in at 6x and hunt at 6x and it will be good, keep things simple and keep the guess work for playing at the range.
Look at it as an acceptance and an opportunity for us to "feel ya out". In time you will see that there are many underlying themes and inside jokes.The title as it is read, well, looks like a moose is choosing optics, gotta remember some people are a bit, off. You have a mix of all types on here.We have grammar and spelling nazi's, safety nazi's, ethics nazi's the list goes on and on.
As for your optics and concerns.Sight in for 240-260 dead on, you be good on a moose out to 300-320ish center of chest.Paralax won't be a concern , even if it is out on the vitals the size of an oven door, well, you are gonna hit vital engine components as long as you are steady.Sight in at 6x and hunt at 6x and it will be good, keep things simple and keep the guess work for playing at the range.
- Location
- British Canuckistan
as a slight aside, would the parallax issue be large enough to really warranty worry if you're taking a shot within 100 yards on something the size of a moose?
- Location
- Prince Albert, Sk
Truth be known, I have gone backwards on what I "need" for a hunting rifle/optics.
Decided to scope my BLR with a 6X Leupold , come across some coyotes while having it on me, no issues.Even at 250-300 I do not feel under powered even on those smaller targets time and practice has made me aware of what I really need vs what I want.We really aren't as capable as our gear actually is.
Keep it simple seems to work.
Decided to scope my BLR with a 6X Leupold , come across some coyotes while having it on me, no issues.Even at 250-300 I do not feel under powered even on those smaller targets time and practice has made me aware of what I really need vs what I want.We really aren't as capable as our gear actually is.
Keep it simple seems to work.
Absolutely no intent to ridicule here either, just having a little fun...and besides (points finger at Timoffee), HE STARTED IT!!
Seriously, while neither AO nor multiple crosshairs are needed for almost any hunting, I'd take the BDC over the AO any day of the week. The BDC is there if you want to use it...if not, you can just ignore it and shoot as though with a standard crosshair. The AO, if adjusted to the wrong distance...and they always seem to be adjusted to the wrong distance...gives you a blurry image that requires you to focus it if you want to see properly. You'll probably focus it ahead of time to 100 yards or so, to give you an acceptable image at all distances...so why not just forego it altogether?
Seriously, while neither AO nor multiple crosshairs are needed for almost any hunting, I'd take the BDC over the AO any day of the week. The BDC is there if you want to use it...if not, you can just ignore it and shoot as though with a standard crosshair. The AO, if adjusted to the wrong distance...and they always seem to be adjusted to the wrong distance...gives you a blurry image that requires you to focus it if you want to see properly. You'll probably focus it ahead of time to 100 yards or so, to give you an acceptable image at all distances...so why not just forego it altogether?
- Location
- Prince Albert, Sk
I assume full responsibility!!
I must agree also, going with a ballistic reticle keeps your eye on the game and your digits on the rifle.I have gone to the Rapid Z for this application and they work like a hot damn to keep your focus on your target.
Again , for the mooses , it is such a large target I would set the scope and leave it for almost all hunting distances.Put it on the lungs and squeeze the release.
I must agree also, going with a ballistic reticle keeps your eye on the game and your digits on the rifle.I have gone to the Rapid Z for this application and they work like a hot damn to keep your focus on your target.
Again , for the mooses , it is such a large target I would set the scope and leave it for almost all hunting distances.Put it on the lungs and squeeze the release.
AOs are for targets, varmints and people who like to phuck with things. Its one more thing that can go/be set wrong, and there is no benefit for a BG rifle. I've got a few mounted on specialty long range rifles, but I do occasionally fit in category 3.
Think about the amount of people who get screwed over with just the variable being left at something unusable. Give those guys an AO and it'll push em right over the edge.
Think about the amount of people who get screwed over with just the variable being left at something unusable. Give those guys an AO and it'll push em right over the edge.
- Location
- Prince Albert, Sk
max error = 0.5 * objective diameter * (range to target - range to focus) / range to focus
So, for example, if the scope were parallax free at 100 yards and the moose was shooting at 400 yards, max error would be 0.5 * 40mm * (400yd - 100yd) / 100yd, or 60mm (2.36").
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Am_I_a_moose?#slide=1
So, for example, if the scope were parallax free at 100 yards and the moose was shooting at 400 yards, max error would be 0.5 * 40mm * (400yd - 100yd) / 100yd, or 60mm (2.36").
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Am_I_a_moose?#slide=1
