.50bmg

alberta tactical rifle said:
It IS a fairly efficient brake for recoil reduction but is abusive as hell to the shooter and those around. Having shot many rifles with these brakes everytime a shot is taken there is a significant blast taken to the face of the shooter. Much like being slammed in the face with a garbage bag full of popcorn. The amount of debris raised from the ground if shooting the rifle prone is impressive and unnecessary.
For this reason we have developed a replacement brake that eliminates the slam to the face and raises about 75% less debris .
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I fully agree with Rick's assessment of the Steyr brake. I had an HS.50 and while the brake does a good job at mitigating recoil as well as putting on a hell of a show for onlookers, it beats the shooter up with significant muzzle blast being directed rearward.

My LRT-3 with the new brake that PGW has been furnishing these rifles with is a pleasure to shoot in comparison to the Steyr. If I kept the Steyr I probably would have bought an ATRS brake for it.
 
marcoman said:
My LRT-3 with the new brake that PGW has been furnishing these rifles with is a pleasure to shoot in comparison to the Steyr.
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That's the only .50 I've shot and was REALLY surprised how little the LRT-3 kicks, .308 is way more unpleasent (based on a 'standard' lighter hunting style bolt gun without a brake)
 
jackdanyel said:
All Steyr HS50 and H50M1 are sold with the same muzzle break. One of the most efficient muzzle break.
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I had a older HS50 steyr and on the newest model of H50M1 I saw there was a difference in brake design. Actually I noticed a few things they seemed to improved on that rifle, was looking really nice. If I didn't have something already I might have bought it...
 
alberta tactical rifle said:
It IS a fairly efficient brake for recoil reduction but is abusive as hell to the shooter and those around. Having shot many rifles with these brakes everytime a shot is taken there is a significant blast taken to the face of the shooter. Much like being slammed in the face with a garbage bag full of popcorn. The amount of debris raised from the ground if shooting the rifle prone is impressive and unnecessary.
For this reason we have developed a replacement brake that eliminates the slam to the face and raises about 75% less debris .
Click to expand...

Nothing is perfect :) I' m sure is more efficient but your are right about the blast wave.


mrblue357 said:
I had a older HS50 steyr and on the newest model of H50M1 I saw there was a difference in brake design. Actually I noticed a few things they seemed to improved on that rifle, was looking really nice. If I didn't have something already I might have bought it...
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The STEYR HS .50 M1 features additionally to the STEYR HS .50:

5 round magazine
Long Picatinny rail system with Picatinny rails on the side (20 moa, hs50 is 0 moa)
Adjustable cheekpiece,Newly designed and fixable bipod, Spine at the buttstock (monpod).

The rest is the same !

One of the must accurate .50 rifle ...


Can you post a pic of the muzzle break? I doubt it was original.
 
stac50. I have a lot of experience with the stainless steel media, the trick is to use hot water to start with, a little dish soap and lemi shine, these ingredients really work to clean the inside of the brass so there is not debris left on which the pins can stick.

number one CLEAN BRASS,

number two is rinse them with HOT water, and rinse the brass very very well.

number three, DRY the Brass extremely well, the water has enough surface tension to keep the media stuck to the brass

number four, tap the case mouth on a hard surface....not too hard so as not to damage the case mouth.

number five, inspect the primer pocket. At times a piece of media can either get stuck sideways in the primer pocket or several can bunch up in the primer pocket hole and stay stuck until they are physically removed.

These are very easy steps to do and can be done quickly. It ensures one stays safe, and isn't shooting steel down the barrel.


I clean exclusively with Stainless Media, and can clean a lot of brass in a hurry.
 
dizzy said:
stac50. I have a lot of experience with the stainless steel media, the trick is to use hot water to start with, a little dish soap and lemi shine, these ingredients really work to clean the inside of the brass so there is not debris left on which the pins can stick.

number one CLEAN BRASS,

number two is rinse them with HOT water, and rinse the brass very very well.

number three, DRY the Brass extremely well, the water has enough surface tension to keep the media stuck to the brass

number four, tap the case mouth on a hard surface....not too hard so as not to damage the case mouth.

number five, inspect the primer pocket. At times a piece of media can either get stuck sideways in the primer pocket or several can bunch up in the primer pocket hole and stay stuck until they are physically removed.

These are very easy steps to do and can be done quickly. It ensures one stays safe, and isn't shooting steel down the barrel.


I clean exclusively with Stainless Media, and can clean a lot of brass in a hurry.
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Excellent

This is what I call a very well written explanation and process.

If you could add some pictures of each steps it would be fantastic. (some people are visual)
 
Reloading Data from LOAD DATA

Hi all,

here is some reloading info form my account on load data.

load1.jpg

WARNING :

THESE LOADS ARE WAY OUT OF LINE FOR ANY SPORTS. DECREASE THESE LOADS BY AT LEAST 15 % to 20 %. USE THIS INFORMATION WITH EXTREME CAUTION.
 

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stac50bmg said:
Hi all,

here is some reloading info form my account on load data.

View attachment 10279
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The loads you posted are hot for a bolt gun and could cause safety issues depending on your rifle and components I do not recommend loading to the max charges you just published. With 650 gr AP pulled I get very good accuracy with 233.7 gr of US 869 and even better 237.5 gr of H-50 with a light to med crimp. CCI #35s seated first with cupped plug then crushed 2/3 rds to arm mix into anvil. On Mil brass I take bare minimum of the primer crimp it helps increase the life of the pockets they stay snug longer. Most important for accuracy nice uniform ignition so you want a nice even uniform flame squirt into the case this is aided by flash hole chamfer/debur/uniformer tool. Sinclair Ogive and shoulder comparator very helpful as well.
 
stac50bmg said:
wow

and they are on Load Data public.
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Yes they are public some people own .50 BMG MGs that will have more generous chambers ect. So they can load hotter!
With a 50 bolt gun and tighter chambers different throats and such you will want to be very careful.

Loading for the .50BMG especially semi auto like Serbu takes a little more knowledge than say loading .308. Not trying to deter you from doing so just saying be careful! Info is great as long as you know how to interpret it and apply it. I have seen commercial reloads sold in Canada that had proud primers!! This can end in disaster in a rifle like the Serbu! Do your research the long range fifty shooters in the US are a great resource.
 
I only use the Hodgdon reloading info.

These loads are too hot for almost any M2 unless you are in a battlefield situation. I am using Barnes bullets and H50BMG or US869 powder. But for a clean barrel I use Vith powder.

My loads are way below that.

I will edit the post. Thank you all very much.
 
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