Reloading for precision shooting

CPA

Member
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Location
Erin, ON
I've read a million pages and watched a thousand youtube videos in regards to reloading. My question now is about the equipment it self.

So my understanding is precision guys don't trust any self powder filling unit? So are all of you using a single stage press? And then weighing every single bullets powder etc? Are there any self filling ones that guys trust?

In terms of dies, are all dies created equal? Or will some not produce as accurate rounds? Same goes for presses?

Thanks.

I'm going to be selling off my Robinson xcr to get into reloading. As soon as the EE allows me in I'll be listing it. Then buying my whole reloading set up. Any help and guide in terms of best things to buy is appreciated.
 
I will use Redding bushing neck dies with 2k tension. I recently picked up a seating stem specifically made for the Berger VLD bullets.
Hand Primer
RCBS Chargemaster
High BC bullets, no cannelure
Single stage press
Lapua brass
I believe case prep is crucial to obtaining the best possible cartridge for your firearm. Yes, you can purchase great match ammo off the shelf, but reloading is an extension to my hobby. I'm not a competitor but I like to shoot to the best of my abilities and the best of the particular firearm.
 
What Powderfinger said.

Yes, a single stage press is the way to go. We use a loading block to hold the cases so that each step can be done to all the cases. i.e. add powder to all your cases. Check powder level. Then seat bullet in all the cases.

For sizing, Redding type S bushing dies are THE way to go. Some guys like to neck size only, some go full length size every time.

Bullet seating is also critical. The Redding chamber type dies are the best solution but they can be VERY expensive. I like the Forester Ultra Seater which is the same setup as the Redding but at much less cost.

Some people like to use a powder trickling systems which are half way between individually measuring each round and using a powder measure. If you look at Benchrest, you will find they all use powder measures and do not typically weigh out charges. This is by far the quickest and easiest method however you do need a good quality powder measure. Both RCBS and Redding make decent powder measures but the Harrell measures are by far the best ... and also the most expensive.

An excellent source for all this kind of gear is Sinclair International.
 
Short range benchrest and long range shooting are two different animals. While the SRBR shooting will throw powder charges by volume, long range shooter will weigh every charge. If you use Lapua brass there isn't too much to do with it for match prep. I sort them by weight only and batch them into 1 gr batches.

Redding dies and a single stage Redding Big Boss press.
 
arbor press and Wilson hand dies.......rcbs hand primer, powder thrower/trickler of the color you like best and a old fashioned balance beam scale set up with a magnifying glass.......
 
My setup is pretty simple and I am not an expert and I dont neck size (just FL) but the following gear works well for me.

Rcbs rockschucker press
Forster FL benchrest sizing die 308
Redding micrometer seating die 308
Rcbs hand priming tool
Rcbs 505 beam scale
Hornady brass trimmer
Hornady runout gauge
Lapua brass
Sierra SMK .20 thou off the lands.

I get one thou runout or less and the rounds group under 1/2"@100m. Unfortunately Im still in the habit of messing up the 4th group in a row but hey, cant blame the gear its all me.
 
This could literally end up as a thread with a life of its own.

It really depends on how far you want to go. I swear by Redding Dies, measuring powder on a balance scale (as I believe they are more repeatable unless you invest in a really good digital), and measuring and recording everything. Its all about keeping the small variables consistent throughout the process. This path can really snowball into OCD if you aren't careful.
 
reloading tools $ equipment

I have had 2 RCBS chargemasters had to send one back for repairs RCBS sent me a new one, they are great for loading hunting ammo but not for longrange shooting they can be out 2/10 of a grain, and 1/10gr in a .308 is 2.25" at 900m more with a .223


Single press RCBS
Hand priming tool, 21 Century best priming tool I have found.
Redding 3 die set competition
Brass Lapua or LC unfired,a must is neck turn your brass. uniform primer pockets.
Bullets Berger, some others like hornady are to inconsistent with ogive lengths and weight, stay away from bullets with plastic tips
I use a old Lyman 55 measure with a culver insert.like other member mentioned the Jones, Harrell are very good as well.
I put charge on a electronic scale Denver Instrument MXX-123 also the Gem-Pro works well. these scales measure 1 kernel of stick powder.
Last the best thing you can purchase for longrange shooting is a Bullet pointing system, I use Hoover system there are others, by pointing bullets you will gain 3/4 to 1 moa at 900m and much more accurate and better groups.
Another thing is stay away from double base powders, they are hard on your throat,and get erratic in the warm days
Hope this helps
Manitou
 
Forster bump dies are at least the equal of Redding and the latter's seater is a copy that costs more and most would say not quite as well made.
 
Dies 308win:

Lee Collet die c/w custom mandrels
Redding Comp. seater c/w custom made sleeve to match my reamer (made with a piece of barrel by my gunsmith)
Forster Shoulder bump die (only use it to bump shoulder, no lube required so more accurate)

Powder handling:
RCBS Chargemaster. Manitou is right on with this. (I have it dispense 0.1gr under my charge)
Sartorius GD503 c/w Omaga Trickler

Case prep:

21st Century neck turning tool
Wilson/sinclair bullet meplat trimming tool c/w carbide cutter and drill adaptor (all cut 0.0005)
all mitutoyo measurement tools
WFT case trimmer
Lyman case prep center
RCBS universal Hand priming tool
Bench Source annealing machine (cooked each shot)
Redding neck thickess gauge (only used to read the finishing quality inside the neck, using a Mitutoyo for thickness)
RCBS concentricity case master (dont ever use a Hornady)
Forster Co-Ax press...the one and only !
 
This could literally end up as a thread with a life of its own.

It really depends on how far you want to go. I swear by Redding Dies, measuring powder on a balance scale (as I believe they are more repeatable unless you invest in a really good digital), and measuring and recording everything. Its all about keeping the small variables consistent throughout the process. This path can really snowball into OCD if you aren't careful.

OCD = weigh the scum after you scrape the primer pockets
OCD = filling each case with water to check actual fill volume
OCD = weigh each primer
OCD = waxing your cases
OCD = having three digital scales to check and re-check
OCD = installing linear bearings on your press
OCD = installing a strain coupling and display on your press handle


Dont ask how I know all this.....................
 
The brand or type of kit you use doesn't matter. All of the so called precision/competition stuff is just marketing hype. Literally millions of rounds of match grade ammo have been loaded on regular kit long before the marketing types decided you need special kit for that. Especially since they want to keep and expand their company's market share.
For a first time loader, buy a copy of The ABC's of Reloading, then one of the Beginner's kits. Partial to RCBS myself, but the important part is that you get everything you need less the dies and shell holder for around $500ish.
Buy another manual too. The kits come with one(Speer with RCBS, I think), but bullet and powder makers books only give data for their products. Not as versatile as say the Lyman book you should buy. Read 'em both.
The techniques you use do matter. Meticulous loading techniques is essential and that includes weighing each charge. Plus or minus 1/10 of a grain can and will be enough to change your group sizes. Powder throwers just ain't accurate nor consistent enough.
If you're loading for precision target shooting, you need match grade bullet$ too. You will have to try a box of all brands, but Sierra MatchKings are the standard now. Hornady's are right up there too.
 
The brand or type of kit you use doesn't matter. All of the so called precision/competition stuff is just marketing hype. Literally millions of rounds of match grade ammo have been loaded on regular kit long before the marketing types decided you need special kit for that. Especially since they want to keep and expand their company's market share.
For a first time loader, buy a copy of The ABC's of Reloading, then one of the Beginner's kits. Partial to RCBS myself, but the important part is that you get everything you need less the dies and shell holder for around $500ish.
Buy another manual too. The kits come with one(Speer with RCBS, I think), but bullet and powder makers books only give data for their products. Not as versatile as say the Lyman book you should buy. Read 'em both.
The techniques you use do matter. Meticulous loading techniques is essential and that includes weighing each charge. Plus or minus 1/10 of a grain can and will be enough to change your group sizes. Powder throwers just ain't accurate nor consistent enough.
If you're loading for precision target shooting, you need match grade bullet$ too. You will have to try a box of all brands, but Sierra MatchKings are the standard now. Hornady's are right up there too.

Would dispute your words: Powder throwers just ain't accurate nor consistent enough.
well benchrest shooters use them all the time they don't use scales and they shoot all ball powders, and yes they shoot the smallest groups ever
 
Precision hand loads are all about the details. The best components, properly prepared and carefully assembled will give the best results. There's no single element that makes a huge difference all by itself. It's the culmination of all the little things.
Aside from the detailed case prep that I do every time, I hand seat my primers, weigh every charge (twice) and assemble on a single stage press with Redding bushing dies. I've thought about a Chargmaster, but my OCD would still make me weigh them twice :)
 
Last edited:
Sierra Matchking were winning before the invention of the microwave...as for now, Berger is completely dominating....for how long...??!!!
 
When you all say case prep what does that mean? Sonic cleaning? Or sizing?
My brass routine goes like this:
Fired case gets the primer punched out and tumble cleaned
Primer pocket uniformed
Case trimmed, de-burred and chamfered
Flash hole de-burred
Neck sized 1-2 thou tension
Cases weighed and sorted
Primer seated by hand

edit:
I forgot to mention that I keep all my cases organized in lots of 50 for tracking purposes and anneal after 5 firings
If I were using anything other than Lapua brass, I'd be neck turning as well
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom