Reloading for precision shooting

My routine:

Inspect
Clean in media
Lube and size/deprime- single stage press
Clean/ream out flash hole and primer pocket
Trim
Tumble again
Sonic clean
Put in oven in open bottom case holders @200f for 1hr to ensure all moisture is gone(this is warm to touch only, not hot enough to cause issues, you should be able to handle barehanded to avoid any heat issues)

Prime
Powder :by powder throw set around .3 gr light with a powder trickler on elec scale checking every tenth load on manual scale to ensure accuracy of weight.
Bullet seating-single stage press

I like the single stage press because you will feel the difference in every stroke as you come down on it. This can alert you if something is not consistent.
 
I use a combination of Single Stage Press with Redding Comp, Forster BR dies or Wilson dies with Arbor press depending on which cartridge I'm loading for.
RCBS Chargemaster to throw the initial powder and an A&D Electronic scale to keep my charges to within .02grn (Yes....that's .02gr)
Lee hand primer for priming (both old style and the new XP but I prefer the old style)
*****You could probably stop here if you really wanted to.*****
Neck turn my brass with K&N Neck Turner
Check neck thickness with Sinclair Neck tool
Anneal my brass with Benchsource Annealer
Uniform primer pockets with a Lyman Primer Pocket Uniformer (adjusted depth for my own personal preference)
Deburr primer flash holes with RCBS flash hole tool
Check runout of loaded rounds on Custom made runout guage
 
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Don't be fixed on using Redding bushing dies just because. Try a normal full length die and measure the runouts. In my match rifle cartridge, the standard RCBS full length die (cheap as borsch) produces the best runouts. Secondly, my Redding T-7 produces better runouts than my RCBS single stage press. Again test before accepting "facts".

In any precision reloading endeavour the key is test, test and test again. Do not accept anything as gospel. Go to Sinclair and buy the measuring tools so you know yourself.
 
This is an awesome thread.

I see a lot of full length resizing - I was under the impression that you did that once, then had a fire formed case that could then be annealed and you were good to go - Next time just neck size while punching out the primer

For us newbies its hard to figure out what is just OCD and what actually makes a worthwhile difference of course, in the end you have to be able to shoot or nothing matters :)

I use:
RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme kit ~$300
RCBS Powder trickler
OAL Length gauge because I was running out of birthday candles and getting frustrated
RCBS full length die set
mituyto(sp) measuring tools (was using a CTC electronic one and my machinist buddy had a bird - gave me his castoff)

How wrong am I?
 
Yes every load is weight separately, if you want precision.
I use RCBS CHARGEMASTER COMBO
It is awesome




CPA said:
I've read a million pages and watched a thousand youtube videos in regards to reloading. My question now is about the equipment it self.

So my understanding is precision guys don't trust any self powder filling unit? So are all of you using a single stage press? And then weighing every single bullets powder etc? Are there any self filling ones that guys trust?

In terms of dies, are all dies created equal? Or will some not produce as accurate rounds? Same goes for presses?

Thanks.

I'm going to be selling off my Robinson xcr to get into reloading. As soon as the EE allows me in I'll be listing it. Then buying my whole reloading set up. Any help and guide in terms of best things to buy is appreciated.
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langbanger said:
So a balance scale is more accurate than most digitals?
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Digitals have lots of advantages, but some are prone to "drift" over the course of a long reloading session. Having a balance scale as a backup is a great way to confirm your digital. I compared back a forth lots in the beginning but soon gained confidence in the digital. Now I just make sure the digital returns to zero after every dump, and I check against the balance scale once in a while. Digitals also seem to like being warmed up. I usually power mine up a couple of hours before I plan to use it. Some people just leave them on all the time.
 
To the OP

I wouldn't sell your XCR to get into reloading. You can pick up alot of the stuff you need second hand, new set of dies isn't terribly expensive. I have bought a few "lots" from old retiring guys - lots of junk but some gems as well. Picked up a dillon progressive with about 5 dies for $25 - not good for precision but great for 9mm, 45 & .223.

The RCBS kit is only $300 plus $30 for a die set, powder trickler $20? and you have most of what you need to start IMHO

But I also hate selling guns... Almost seem to get post Partum after that :)
 
CPA said:
When you all say case prep what does that mean? Sonic cleaning? Or sizing?
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case prep mean all of the preparation before loading the cartridge. I've made some test with a sonic cleaner and will never use one again. It change the porosity of the brass and therefore, subject to affect tension on the bullet...producing vertical. If you use one, run a 0000 whool inside the neck to polish after cleaning.

As for Redding bushing dies. They are a piece of cr... They produce soooo much runout. I rather use a Lee Collet than i run just after my annealing or like Ian said, use a Warner die with bushing. I never felt the need to use a 400$ die as my Lee Collet is producing outstanding runout at 0.0005....what can we ask more ! Note that when a brass is fired, its coming out as PERFECTLY molded to your chamber. By resizing, you can only induce "error" in it. The less you resize, the better it will be. So i'm only neck sizing before a match, and have to manage brass for it.
 
WG300 said:
case prep mean all of the preparation before loading the cartridge. I've made some test with a sonic cleaner and will never use one again. It change the porosity of the brass and therefore, subject to affect tension on the bullet...producing vertical. If you use one, run a 0000 whool inside the neck to polish after cleaning.

As for Redding bushing dies. They are a piece of cr... They produce soooo much runout. I rather use a Lee Collet than i run just after my annealing or like Ian said, use a Warner die with bushing. I never felt the need to use a 400$ die as my Lee Collet is producing outstanding runout at 0.0005....what can we ask more ! Note that when a brass is fired, its coming out as PERFECTLY molded to your chamber. By resizing, you can only induce "error" in it. The less you resize, the better it will be. So i'm only neck sizing before a match, and have to manage brass for it.
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Sonics cleaners are no good? Damnit I just bought one.
 
what is fun when you ahve an accurate rifle with a good load is that it will provide valuable information with the test you will be running. I took, that load to the range with those variables:

2 groups primer pocket dirty, just a whool on the neck. no tumbler, no sonic

2 groups from sonic cleaner, perfectly clean inside out

2 groups perfectly clean primer pocket (clean manually), tumbler clean outside

2 groups tumbler with corn media, primer pocket dirty

the results are loud and clear, i'm now tumbling in corn media and, to my surprise, i dont care about the primer pocket....which is a good news :)

when i seat bullet on my press on brass that are coming from a Sonic, i can feel the difference in resistance. I bought a short shaft on my Co-Ax to get a better feel of it. Even if not scientific, the results of those test were clear enough to make my statement on this forum.
 
Good information on here. RCBS makes an excellent DVD on basic reloading that makes an excellent reference during your "early" reloading days.

In my humble opinion, stick with quality mechanical re-loading tools, take your time, and focus on a clean, well organized work bench, and pay attention to details (don't rush).

The K.I.S.S. principle is really important in re-loading for accuracy.
 
I would not for a second believe anything about sonic cleaners damaging brass without some serious, multiple tests and checking the setup of the poster who described the problem. It sounds to me like either crappy brass or the wrong cleaning solution. Ultrasonic cleaning is awesome and less damaging to brass then a polishing tumbler.
 
I use the following

- Spend lots of time on case prepping. All the little things count. You want consistency on everything especially trim lengths
- Hand prime so you can get a feel for your priming. Use benchrest quality primers (I use BR2 from CCI)
- Match grade brass. Lapua brass is the cats meow.
- Bullet selection varies, my friends and I have good results with the Hornady A Max line
- Single Stage Press (all the majors have a decent kit. I use the rockchucker)
- RCBS Charemaster for loads. I have a backup scale to verify loads every now and then. Use the straw trick.
- Quality Calipers (dont use digital ones, I find they lose accuracy easily)
- TAKE YOUR TIME
 
Viper26 said:
Digitals have lots of advantages, but some are prone to "drift" over the course of a long reloading session. Having a balance scale as a backup is a great way to confirm your digital. I compared back a forth lots in the beginning but soon gained confidence in the digital. Now I just make sure the digital returns to zero after every dump, and I check against the balance scale once in a while. Digitals also seem to like being warmed up. I usually power mine up a couple of hours before I plan to use it. Some people just leave them on all the time.
Click to expand...

I have an AND model digital scale. I don't cross measure with a balance because the only balance I have is the 5-0-5 that came with my RCBS press. I do leave it plugged in all the time and I turn it on for a while before I make any measurements. Just as I think about this, I need to make sure that it's a surge protected power bar. Yikes. :cool: For handgun, I am meticulous about each round during load development but will switch to a powder measure for speed. For .308, I will measure every round.

I bought and highly reccommend Bryan Litz book "Applied Ballistics for Long Range Shooting". It's well written and he has a good way of explaining the parameters you can control vs. the parameters you cannot (or cannot easily) control. I am not all the way through this book but it's already helped me to work out some details in my process. I'm a newb for sure but I'm also a very technical and detail oriented person. The book is written for people who are like minded.
 
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