.308 Garand
- Thread starter Ring-tail
- Start date
Many of the same caveats on reloading for the .30-06 Garand apply;
1. Always FL re-size
2. Don't try to get more than 5 firings out of a piece of brass
3. Seat primers slightly below flush with the case head
4. Keep cases trimmed below max OAL
5. If available, use CCI No34 MILSPEC primers. Otherwise WLR, CCI LR, or Rem LR work OK. Avoid federal primers as they have softer metal in the cup
6. Use the correct propellants. IMR4895 was MILSPEC for the 7.62 NATO. All of the following are within the correct burn rate for the Garand and will generate the correct pressure at the gas port; IMR4064, IMR3031, H4895, BLC2,and W748. I have found IMR4895 and IMR 3031 to be the most accurate in several 7.62 Garands, which is no surprise as both were used for military 7.62 match loads.
7. Use bullets in the 150-168gr range. The Hornady 150gr FMJ is very accurate for a non-match bullet and can be bought in bulk
8. Work up loads IAW a recognized loading manual.
1. Always FL re-size
2. Don't try to get more than 5 firings out of a piece of brass
3. Seat primers slightly below flush with the case head
4. Keep cases trimmed below max OAL
5. If available, use CCI No34 MILSPEC primers. Otherwise WLR, CCI LR, or Rem LR work OK. Avoid federal primers as they have softer metal in the cup
6. Use the correct propellants. IMR4895 was MILSPEC for the 7.62 NATO. All of the following are within the correct burn rate for the Garand and will generate the correct pressure at the gas port; IMR4064, IMR3031, H4895, BLC2,and W748. I have found IMR4895 and IMR 3031 to be the most accurate in several 7.62 Garands, which is no surprise as both were used for military 7.62 match loads.
7. Use bullets in the 150-168gr range. The Hornady 150gr FMJ is very accurate for a non-match bullet and can be bought in bulk
8. Work up loads IAW a recognized loading manual.
samsplacci71
Regular
- Location
- Toronto area
Purple is correct, I load a bit different as I use what I have on hand for all of my other .308's. I have been using H4895 with a 168gr HPBT Hornady Match to good effect, when I was out of Norinco 7.62x51. Though if you don't want to go fishing through the snow in the winter to find your spent cases, you can opt for a Shuster adustable gas plug for the M1 Garand. I use it to shut the gas completely off.
The .308 and .30-06 are ballistically identical. Same bullets, same powders.
You do not need CCI "milspec" primers. Those are a marketing gimmick for magn prinmers only. Asking a CCI rep about 'em will get you a wry smile. One of the guys on another forum did just that a few years back. Any LR primer will be fine. Just make sure they seated right, same as you do for .30-06.
You don't need to limit the number of firings either. Couldn't tell you how many times I've loaded mine with no fuss. Load the same cases for my M1 and my '03A4 too.
You do not need CCI "milspec" primers. Those are a marketing gimmick for magn prinmers only. Asking a CCI rep about 'em will get you a wry smile. One of the guys on another forum did just that a few years back. Any LR primer will be fine. Just make sure they seated right, same as you do for .30-06.
You don't need to limit the number of firings either. Couldn't tell you how many times I've loaded mine with no fuss. Load the same cases for my M1 and my '03A4 too.
Just go to www.zediker.com and read his downloadable article about reloading for the M14. He probably has more credibility/experience on the topic than do most folks on these forums. Allasame for the 7.62/.308 Garand. And yes, primer type and case life/reloading firing cycles on a piece of brass do matter. Ever seen how a casehead gets chewed up after a 4-5 firings in a Garand? And I use the Lake City military brass that he recommends.
- Location
- Beaverlodge, Alberta
I've had my Garand fire doubles with federal primers so it's no farce
- Location
- Ottawa origanally Muskoka
No crimp on a cartridge going into a semi auto? You ever have the OAL chane on the ammo?
Doubling with an M1 isn't caused by the primer unless it's seated too high.
No, I've never seen seriously chewed case heads with my handloads. Use nothing but my handloads either. If you get that the extractor, lubing or load is faulty. Case mouths get dented regularly from being bashed on the way out, but the other end is fine.
Your buddy's 150's and IMR4895 will work nicely with any primer. W.W. II vintage M2 ammo used a 152 grain bullet(don't know why nobody has ever made a 152 for reloading. The marketing possibilities are endless.) with that powder. You will have to work up the load from your manual though. Suggest you load 8 of each powder weight vs the 5 normally used. The clips make for a very convenient way of keeping the loads separate. For get how many there were going up by half a grain, but I seem to recall using my ammo belts to lug 'em too. Might have been 10.
Crimping isn't required for any semi-auto.
No, I've never seen seriously chewed case heads with my handloads. Use nothing but my handloads either. If you get that the extractor, lubing or load is faulty. Case mouths get dented regularly from being bashed on the way out, but the other end is fine.
Your buddy's 150's and IMR4895 will work nicely with any primer. W.W. II vintage M2 ammo used a 152 grain bullet(don't know why nobody has ever made a 152 for reloading. The marketing possibilities are endless.) with that powder. You will have to work up the load from your manual though. Suggest you load 8 of each powder weight vs the 5 normally used. The clips make for a very convenient way of keeping the loads separate. For get how many there were going up by half a grain, but I seem to recall using my ammo belts to lug 'em too. Might have been 10.
Crimping isn't required for any semi-auto.
Your buddy's rifle work ok with factory ammo? Only reason I'm asking (and should have asked before) is that some of the aftermarket barrels have a gas hole that's too small. Only matters if the rifle isn't functioning properly. The hole should be .089" to .1065" (diameters found in numbered drills), if it's not. Don't use a hand drill. Drill press only if the rifle isn't functioning properly.
