Show us your Revolvers!
- Thread starter GunGuy34
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Learn about lighting. Learn about good use of multiple halogen lamps or multiple flashes. And most importantly for "shiny" surfaces like your great looking nickel guns learn about bounce flash use off a big white reflector board and the use of diffusers to spread out the light and avoid hot spots.
The camera is simply the capture device. Good photography is all about painting with light. Even to the point where you can "warm" or "cool" the picture tone based on the reflective surfaces you use.
And if you're going to do even half assed serious photography then you NEED to get a mid size sturdy tripod. No one other than sports and fashion photographers can call themselves serious if they hand hold the camera.
A good exercise to try is to set something on a table top with a single light source you can control such as a halogen desk lamp. Get a big white card to use as a reflector. A sheet of dollar store foam works wonders for this. With the light off to one side notice the harsh shadows when looking into the view finder or monitoring on the LCD screen. Now bring in the bounce card from the other side but so it's out of the frame. Notice how by playing with the angles you can fill in the shadows so the camera "sees" and shows far more of the darker parts. Few or no camera sensors has the dynamic brightness range of the human eye. So "flatting" out the light is needed to get good pictures that look "right" when we see them later on.
While you're at the dollar store buy a couple of sheets of colour poster card. Ivory is wonderful for adding a warm tone to the reflected light.
For shiny objects like your nickeled guns you also want to avoid direct light. Instead if you can make up a diffuser from thin vellum "tracing paper" it will spread out the light so you don't get hot spots from direct reflections in the shiny nickel. Baker's parchment is also nice if you want to warm up the light. But watch for it becoming too yellow and making the pictures look like the gun has jaundice....
Even two layers of wax paper attached to a handling frame works great for a diffuser.Notice that none of this is about the CAMERA? That's because the good pictures are "painting with light" first and foremost. The actual setting of the camera and pushing the button is way down in importance and a mere technical detail as long as you get the settings correct.
The good news is that you really don't need flashes for table top stuff. A couple of clamp on articulated arm desk lamps and maybe a flex arm heavy base lamp and various items for diffusers and reflectors is just fine. But use LOTS of light. If it feels like you really need a set of sunglasses because it's so bright then it's just right.
Good luck and play a lot. Digital "film" is free after all....
That is awesome! Questions: What's special about the TALO edition? Where did you get your Ahrends from? I searched forever for some up here but ended up ordering from the US. Lastly, by "plug" do you mean plug for the lock? I can't see anything on there...unless it's been photoshopped.
That is awesome! Questions: What's special about the TALO edition? Where did you get your Ahrends from? I searched forever for some up here but ended up ordering from the US. Lastly, by "plug" do you mean plug for the lock? I can't see anything on there...unless it's been photoshopped.
THE J, L & N FRAME DELUXE SERIES
TALO commissioned 7 models of revolvers with special fancy wood grips. That's it (and I swapped the grips anyway.)
I went with the TALO just because it's meant for US residents and I wanted to try my luck seeing if the quality was better in the US than what was coming into Canada. I'm satisfied with it.
No photoshop. The plug does replace the lock, if you look closely you can see the circle where the lock went; only the lock cylinder is replaced everything else remains.
With regards to the AHRENDS, yes, I also ordered from the US. No one in Canada that I am aware of carries them.
...and for anyone who doesn't know, the AHRENDS feel incredible! So much nicer than stock.
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No, not odd. The Anaconda is essentially a large King Cobra. The lock work and workmanship is not the same as on a Python. When new, the Python sold for almost twice the price of the king cobra I recall. Kind of like the Anaconda is the straight up 29/629, and the Python is Performance Centre plus.
Not trying to diminish your Anaconda. Very nice revolver and some say better than the 29/629 and Redhawk. Its value definitely benefits from its rarity and close association to the Python.
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My Swiss 1882. Somebody should tell this 119 year old gal to slow down! Her complexion is still supple and even!
