Question for experienced long range shooters

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tobythegunnut

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Hi guys and gals, I have a few questions for you more experienced with setting up a scope with elevation turrets. I'm shooting a new rifle with a new scope and have a few questions. First I'll break down simple set up, then explain.
Browning X-Bolt Stainless Stalker in 300WSM
Browning one piece base and rings 30mm in medium height (.5")
Vortex Viper HS-LR 4-16x50mm
So, sweet, but simple set up and seems to be a good shooter with minimal factory loads put through it so far, I will be hand loading for it soon to see what I can get from it. So here's my problem and question. Shooting a 165gr TTSX and sighted at 100yrds, I had to go through lots of the available elevation in my turret, leaving me with less than two full rotations left. So I assume, a higher mounted scope will allow me to turn back the turret a little? I can't seem to find a 20mm rail or anything that looks like it fits an X-Bolt. If I swap my rings for high (.6") that's not really going to do much is it? Any idea what I can do so that I don't feel like my scope is cranked way too far?
 
I'm no expert long range shooter by a large measure, but if you really think about it, in theory if you mount your scope higher, it should take even more elevation out of your turrets from the get-go. Therefore compounding your problem???

I hope someone else with more experience than myself pipes in here...........lol...
 
tobythegunnut said:
Vortex Viper HS-LR 4-16x50mm
I had to go through lots of the available elevation in my turret, leaving me with less than two full rotations left. /QUOTE]

Well I checked the specs on this scope and it has 24 min per rotation in elevation and 12 min per rotation windage. With" less than two full rotations" you still have say35 to 40 mins up from 100yd zero.

With that round you would need only maybe 25 min or so to get to 1000yds from 100 yd zero. So I don't think there is much to worry about. If you want you can put a shim under the rear of your base and achieve a cant in it that way.

NormB
Click to expand...
 
Peter Dobson at Hirsch precision had these 20 moa bases in stock the last time I was there. (almost 6 months ago)
For long range a tapered base will keep your scope operating closer to the optical center, which should give you better results.
Ron.
 
Burris Z rings with inserts, will also give you more "up".
I've bought a few sets from Jerry at Mystic Precision. He's also a EGW dealer.

It honestly doesn't sound like you need them though.
 
Your scope has 75min of internal elevation , you've got approx 48min of "up" left with 2 full revolutions .. You're doing fine ..add a 20moa base of Z-rings with inserts if you're really that worried
 
tobythegunnut said:
Thanks guys, I'm going to consider new bases, I know I have some adjustment left but it bothers me too look at the scope and think I'm cranked up. Maybe it's just a mental thing.
Click to expand...

The more you screw the elevation knob down, the more you compress the spring holding the erector tube. Now a 20 min. cant base will allow you to turn the knob in just under 1 rotation, 20/24th to be exact for your Vortex. That shouldn't hurt the spring, but they can weaken and wear out, especially the brass leaf kind. If you happen to have a scope/rifle combo that requires you to have the elevation knob screwed nearly all the way in, it would be a good idea to store it when not in use with the knob out to at least mid adjustment to save the spring.

Also, when you have the knob all the way out, or up, the tension on the spring is at its weakest and the erector tube has been known to move under recoil in this situation, leading to errant shots. And further, when you are topped or bottomed in elevation there is no windage adjustment possible and the same goes for elevation adjustment when you have max'd your windage.

NormB
 
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