XCR-M Owners: Bit of a warning

Xero

Xero

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Calgary, AB
I'm posting this here because IIRC, Wolverine Supplies is the main/only importer of RA stuff into Canada.

Yesterday I was out shooting on Canada day. Put about 150 rounds through my XCR-M before I started getting some stovepipes and various other misfeeds. Turns out the barrel screw was working its way lose. I immediately stopped shooting after finding this out.

On returning home I busted out the XCR-M manual to find out what I needed to tighten that screw up to. Turns out it's supposed to be 200 in-lbs[SUP]1[/SUP]. Well, what happened is not what was expected... I set my torque wrench to 200[SUP]2[/SUP] and went to turning. The result was the following:
fTjxDKP.jpg


So to other owners, I warn you to be wary of tightening that barrel screw to the recommended 200 in-lbs. I'm not sure exactly at what weight the screw sheared off, but I'd hazard to guess it was fairly close to that mark. Maybe my screw was just faulty, and hopefully I can get it fixed.

I have no idea how I'm going to go about getting this fixed though. I've never had to deal with the head of a screw being sheared off before. This rifle was purchased from The Shooting Edge in Calgary, I'm assuming that they got it from Wolverine Supplies and didn't import it themselves. When I purchased it they told me that the only "warranty" they had was that if something was "obviously broken" right out of the box.

@Wolverine Supplies: I've already emailed RA directly with this information. I'm trying to find out if the 200 in-lbs in the manual is incorrect or not. Is there anything you can do to help me out with this under any kind of parts warranty? Obviously this particular screw couldn't handle the stress of 200 in-lbs. Rifle was purchased September 13, 2013. 400 - 500 rounds through it.

References:
1. Screenshot of the manual, showing 200 in-lbs.
2. Picture of torque wrench setting.
 
You can pick up an 'screw/extractor' bit and get that out no problem. Buy another hex bolt from Wolverine and do the Hand tightening method this time.
 
andrew3081 said:
I thought as long as you tighten the barrel nut so the nut by hand to the point where it will not get more tighter?
Click to expand...
The manual states:
Screw in the Barrel Bolt with a 1/4” Allen wrench. Lightly hand tighten the screw. Over tightening can ruin the Upper Receiver. Use a maximum of 200 inch pounds. If you do not have a torque wrench, turn till hand tight then try to turn another 70 degrees by hand to ensure barrel is in tight.
Click to expand...
Getting a precise torque on the screw sounds better to me than having variations in "hand tightened" methods. That said, I guess I'll be doing the hand tightening method in the future if I can get this screw out with an extractor.
 
I see that now , that looks like a Cdn Tire part number, that could explain your problem, I have taken 3 of them back as they would not torque properly
 
Wow, seriously that must have been a cheezy bolt....the broken piece looks like it is threaded into a 'heli-coil'. Unless really competent, leave the extraction to a gunsmith/ machinist. I would check your torque wrench as well, just sayin, sorry to see you had such a problem.
 
It's a RobArms... pretty sure the recommendation from the manufacturer will be "use some Loctite". ;)

That's really sucky though. Never fun to have a broken gun. :(
 
I hope that red colour is not indicating the presence of red Loctite. If it was assembled with red Loctite, you need to get your receiver to someone with experience, as that screw is next to frozen in there, as far as basic hand tools are concerned. Some precise drilling and screw extraction are in order.
 
I'd see if a machine shop with EDM (Electrical Discharge Machining) capability will do it. No risk of marring anything or boogering the threads compared to if you use an EZ Out, there's no drilling involved. If they'll do a firearm it should just cost a couple of bucks, should be cheaper than the EZ out actually. No need for a gunsmith or any panic, this is an dead easy issue to fix.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/101_Projects_Porsche_911/95-Tapx/95-Tapx.htm
 
bc308 said:
I hope that red colour is not indicating the presence of red Loctite. If it was assembled with red Loctite, you need to get your receiver to someone with experience, as that screw is next to frozen in there, as far as basic hand tools are concerned. Some precise drilling and screw extraction are in order.
Click to expand...
Well the reason I went to tighten it was because it came lose. I doubt there was any loctite in there if it came lose after 400-500 rounds of shooting.

I don't feel confident enough in my own abilities to extract the screw so it looks like I'll be taking it to a gun smith. At least The Shooting Edge has a good one, if their warranty policies leave much to be desired...
 
bc308 said:
I hope that red colour is not indicating the presence of red Loctite. If it was assembled with red Loctite, you need to get your receiver to someone with experience, as that screw is next to frozen in there, as far as basic hand tools are concerned. Some precise drilling and screw extraction are in order.
Click to expand...
Upon further inspection... I hope you are not right... Red loctite?
 
bobsonofbob said:
Wow, seriously that must have been a cheezy bolt....the broken piece looks like it is threaded into a 'heli-coil'. Unless really competent, leave the extraction to a gunsmith/ machinist. I would check your torque wrench as well, just sayin, sorry to see you had such a problem.
Click to expand...

It looks like exactly that - apart from repairing stripped threads, HeliCoils are also used where steel studs/bolts go into aluminum, the steel / steel thread is much less likely to strip or seize. Makes sense, with an aluminum upper and steel bolt. It'll save the threads over the life of the weapon.
 
Xero said:
I don't feel confident enough in my own abilities to extract the screw so it looks like I'll be taking it to a gun smith. At least The Shooting Edge has a good one, if their warranty policies leave much to be desired...
Click to expand...

I promise you don't need a gunsmith, or to pay gunsmith rates for this, it's a ten minute job at any machine shop with EDM. It's Calgary, I can't imagine if you show up out back of a small shop with a few beers and a sad look on your face someone won't take pity and just do it on the spot.
 
flashman said:
It looks like exactly that - apart from repairing stripped threads, HeliCoils are also used where steel studs/bolts go into aluminum, the steel / steel thread is much less likely to strip or seize. Makes sense, with an aluminum upper and steel bolt. It'll save the threads over the life of the weapon.
Click to expand...
I do believe that this is correct. Upon further inspection around the threads, it does look like there's a HeliCoil installed in the upper receiver. There's a distinct end and the "coil" runs along the outside edge and then under itself at the visible "end" of the coil.
 
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