hbean
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Surrey, BC
All it takes is a wrong bolt landed in the wrong bin at the factory.
The manual states:
Getting a precise torque on the screw sounds better to me than having variations in "hand tightened" methods. That said, I guess I'll be doing the hand tightening method in the future if I can get this screw out with an extractor.
wow,,for a riffle of that price,,i would expect a bit better quality,,,cheap bolts shouldn't be on there....proper graded ones would show care and quality,,,not to mention cheap ass Helicoils,,,,ever hear of timserts????,,,,way better process than helicoils,,,but a bit more expensive,,,i guess they dont make enough profit on their guns,,,LOL..
Had the same issue with "aircraft grade" components that I was using on a Bell 214. Bolt heads kept sheering off when torqued to spec. Turns out the Vancouver B.C. company where the parts were made was actually just getting them shipped from China with some really whacky metallurgy. RA may or may not be to blame as I doubt they manufactured the bolt.
Had the same issue with "aircraft grade" components that I was using on a Bell 214. Bolt heads kept sheering off when torqued to spec. Turns out the Vancouver B.C. company where the parts were made was actually just getting them shipped from China with some really whacky metallurgy. RA may or may not be to blame as I doubt they manufactured the bolt.
I'm actually fairly surprised that the rifle kept feeding fairly well even after that barrel bolt had worked itself loose enough for me to just unscrew it by hand. Granted there were some stovepipes as, I'm assuming, the extractor wasn't grabbing the casing properly and failing to fling it free, but all that was required on my end was to manually rack the charging handle most of the time.I had something similar happen, barrel would come lose and fall of when i lower the gun. After trying everything i could think of, sent it back to wolverine and they took care of it. For free.
Not too sure about the rifle, but the guys at wolverine are really trustworthy.
This does make sense! I'll be sure to try this method when installing the next barrel bolt/screw.It looks like Wolverine is setting you up with a new bolt, those guys are phenomenal.
My tip for you is not to worry about the torque wrench or specs. I used to be a mechanic, now I'm a professional armourer. I never use torque wrenches, namely because I've never found an accurate one and also have never found any metals to be perfectly consistent. With a little patience and understanding, you don't need them.
Triple-torque your way to greatness. I'm sure there's a good video out there that explains exactly why this works, but here's the deal:
Anything with threads will not properly match up when initially turned in. For example, only every second or third thread is actually mated properly. So when you just put the bolt in and start tightening and torqueing, only half the threads are then taking all that force. Go hand tight (snug), back off slightly, tighten more, back off, and tighten again. You'll notice when you do it that the bolt tightens further each time. This greatly increases the mating of the threads, therefore reducing the chance of breakage and also of it coming loose.
My friend broke the exact same bolt on his XCR on Tuesday of this week. He is also being shipped a new bolt from Wolverine.
Once we are able to get back into the shop we can definitely help out all the folks with this issue. However please be cognizant of that fact that we are shut down due to flooding and road closures. Although I do sympathize with any inconvenience this may cause, it is way beyond our control at this time.
It states a MAXIMUM! Not that it NEEDSTo be! Hope u can reverse it out, ur torque wrench is likely out on its read, u were prob. Closer to 250
The helicoil is required as you are tightening a steel bolt into an aluminum reciever.
Quite right. I was just about to mention this, considering the remarks where some thought the heli-coil had to be from a repair job. Not so, as Mr. Wolverine correctly states. Where an aluminum part meets a steel (ferrous) part (like a screw), it's the breeding ground for galvanic corrosion. The heli-coils are made of stainless and provide a non-corroding thread bearing surface between the two so that they don't seize up.
Cheers.
It looks like exactly that - apart from repairing stripped threads, HeliCoils are also used where steel studs/bolts go into aluminum, the steel / steel thread is much less likely to strip or seize. Makes sense, with an aluminum upper and steel bolt. It'll save the threads over the life of the weapon.
I see that now , that looks like a Cdn Tire part number, that could explain your problem, I have taken 3 of them back as they would not torque properly




























