Zastava MP22

Hey guys~only read the first page of this thread, but are these rifles available in 22WMR...and decently accurate in that caliber? Curious to hear if anyone here has one in 22WMR.
 
Just unpacked mine this morning. I’m afraid to say that I’ve made a BIG mistake.

I should’ve purchased TWO of them! They are sweet looking! Can’t wait to get to the range.

My advice to everyone: if you want a really nice looking rimfire bolt rifle, RUN and don’t just go and order one; better yet, order two or your ####’ll fall off! Lol
 
Hey guys~only read the first page of this thread, but are these rifles available in 22WMR...and decently accurate in that caliber? Curious to hear if anyone here has one in 22WMR.

Yes I have one in 22wmr and I will say that in the accuracy department its right up there with the Cz 452 and Walthers in my club. Never had an issue as yet with feeding and extraction using Hornady loads.
 
Has anybody “oiled “ their stock and if so need a little help
Was it “tung “ oil?
What make ?
Instructions
I’ve marine varnished chairs, 8 coats where the first coat was cut with 80% spirits and gradually reduced to just varnish , is this the same process?
 
Has anybody “oiled “ their stock and if so need a little help

I asked Gunco about this & he said to see if rain beads off the stock. If it does it's not an issue.

He also said if I wanted the stock refinished, he would use linseed oil.

Cheers
Jay
 
I asked Gunco about this & he said to see if rain beads off the stock. If it does it's not an issue.

He also said if I wanted the stock refinished, he would use linseed oil.

Cheers
Jay

Tongue oil is a better, more durable finish and it stinks less.
 
Tru-Oil also works great!...:) I use two to four coats of Tru-Oil, a little goes a long way. The end result is outstanding!

Tru-Oil®
56z2903s1.jpg
Originally used as a gunstock finish, this linseed-based drying oil has gained popularity for use on tool handles, musical instruments and other items that are subject to frequent handling, due to its excellent resistance to wear and moisture.Applied with a cloth, it penetrates the wood to deepen its color and accentuate grain, drying to a tough, lustrous and elastic film that will not crack or discolor with age.
Made in USA.
 
Tru-Oil also works great!...:) I use two to four coats of Tru-Oil, a little goes a long way. The end result is outstanding!

Tru-Oil®
56z2903s1.jpg
Originally used as a gunstock finish, this linseed-based drying oil has gained popularity for use on tool handles, musical instruments and other items that are subject to frequent handling, due to its excellent resistance to wear and moisture.Applied with a cloth, it penetrates the wood to deepen its color and accentuate grain, drying to a tough, lustrous and elastic film that will not crack or discolor with age.
Made in USA.

Have you prepped Zastava stock at all or is it good to go straight on?
 
Have you prepped Zastava stock at all or is it good to go straight on?

Whatever finish is on the stock needs to be stripped prior to refinishing. Besides ensuring that the new finish penetrates properly into the grain, it will also get rid of the muddy-looking top coat that tends to mask the character of the wood.
 
I have no experience with this.

What do you gents use to strip the stock and does the checkering need to be recut afterwards?
 
Mine came yesterday and I don’t see any finish on it at all. You can still feel the fine wood fibres
Edit : Just rubbed some scotch brute on stock. Very thin coating,probably some type of lacquer. Go to
rimfirecentral.com
In the states there are some very good threads on refinishing, good tips on doing checkering
 
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My Zastava 22 wmr stock gets a little thirsty looking sometimes and then I just give it a dose of Watco Danish oil as per the mfgr's instructions. I'm planning to add some rosewood to my stock and at that point I may just varnish it.
 
Have you prepped Zastava stock at all or is it good to go straight on?

Some stock finishes can be sanded off with a fine grit sand paper. These MP22 rifles do not appear to have much of a finish on them.

There are several stock refinishing videos on you-tube. Very fine steel wool on the final sanding makes for an excellent look and feel after the Tru-Oil coats are applied. Steel wool sand between the Tru-Oil coats.

Good luck!.....:)

The sky is the limit to what you want the final look to be.
 
Just took mine apart to the bare wood. The exploded diagram does not match the gun. The bolt in front of the trigger guard is pillared(likes to fall out,the pillar). The bolt(?) behind the trigger guard came stripped. Mr Dremel had to be utilized (Crappy Tire cutoff discs useless , use Dremel discs). It’s not a bolt but a coarse wood screw. Removed the trigger guard and found a bolt and washer( not tight) securing the rear of the action. Now to start the striping process
Edit: By stripped I meant by the bit used to install the screw, no purchase for a bit or screw remover , a perfect circle
 
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Going to look at mine... Can you post pics 45CAT?

Here’s mine...

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Mine looks the same. The second action screw and washer are accessible once the trigger guard is removed.

Too bad bad about the stripped screw. My rifle was in great shape save for a small indentation in the wood near the magazine release.
 
I will probably put linseed oil on top of the coat on the rifle.... I dont want to strip it and theres almost no finnish of any kind. Wish they would have sent it either completely unfinished or properly done lol. Rifle seems solid otherwise.
 
The magazine lips can use a bit of a de-tune.... razor sharp and a bit stiff on the 5th round is bound to get bloody..... :)
 
I will probably put linseed oil on top of the coat on the rifle.... I dont want to strip it and theres almost no finnish of any kind. Wish they would have sent it either completely unfinished or properly done lol. Rifle seems solid otherwise.

If you wanted to you could use some turpentine and a clean rag, stiff nylon brush(checkering) to prep before oiling.
 
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