0 MOA vs. 20 MOA Picatinny Rail. Which is best?

I plan on zeroing my scope at 200 yards. I doubt I will be shooting further than 600 yards to be honest, but I was just wondering if having a 20 MOA and shooting under 600 would affect the adjustments of the scope or have any negative impact.

It won't have negative impact. Your zero will be close to a third of your scope adjustment so you will have 2/3 of your available adjustment for longer ranges. The final number will depend on what your scope adjustment range is. It helps to stay away from first and last 10 MOA's of your scope for accuracy purposes but again, that will vary on your scope quality. Either way, nothing to lose, only to gain by putting 20 MOA rail on.
 
No. Zero is where zero is. My 300WM zeroed at +70MOA wi a flat base. So I had a custom +40 base made by ATRS. Now I zero at 200 yards at +30 and I still have 70MOA left to play with which gives me the option to push a long way out if I ever move back to country where I can see more than 50 yards.

See that's the thing; the zero is where the zero is. Your's needed more than you probably expected; but it could have just as easily gone the other way where the best thing you can do is nothing at all. Hard to plan where you're going if you don't know where you are.
 
I meant like true optical zero of the scope. I.e. rotate the scope on its axis, and the reticle doesn't move (Whereas if you had elevation adjusted in either direction, the reticle would swing around with the scope). Hopefully I'm explaining myself well enough.

Say you have 50 MOA of adjustment, if that on either side of a straight line, giving you 100MOA total? Or would that be 25 on either side, for 50 total?

I think I see what you're saying. You're interchanging two different terms incorrectly. You're talking about "centering" the reticle in the middle of the limits of elevation and windage adjustment. Zeroing is sighting the rifle so that POA and POI correspond at a given distance. Zeroing can happen at any point in the optical adjustment. Sometimes it is close to the optical center and others (like the Nightforce I spoke of above) zero at some strange point in the adjustment for no specific reason. For example, the Nightfore I was speaking of has 100 MOA of adjustment so centre would be at +50 MOA (the middle of the adjustment range). But with a traditional flat base it zeroed at +70 MOA which was not ideal for me, hence why I added a +40 rail which brought the zero down to +30.

Clear as mud?
 
See that's the thing; the zero is where the zero is. Your's needed more than you probably expected; but it could have just as easily gone the other way where the best thing you can do is nothing at all. Hard to plan where you're going if you don't know where you are.

You old philosophizer you!
 
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