.011 probably not a big deal but drives me ape!

Say it does. If I drive it in till it touches then back it off between .020-.050 enough to squeak in the mag that'll work yeah? Honestly I'm tired of arguing with it and can't afford other forms of measurement at the moment. Got lucky with the 280 right off the bat, but I've had the 30-06 since I was 17 and it's ate ALLOT of ammo over the years. To the point I'm surprised the barrel isn't burnt out.

I measure the mage length and make a note in the log book. I always load ammo at least 15 thou shorter than that length to guarantee ammo will not bind in the mag.

So load a round to that length and chamber it. 95% chance it will not show rifling marks. You are off the rifling, but as close as you can get. Carry on.
 
I measure the mage length and make a note in the log book. I always load ammo at least 15 thou shorter than that length to guarantee ammo will not bind in the mag.

So load a round to that length and chamber it. 95% chance it will not show rifling marks. You are off the rifling, but as close as you can get. Carry on.

So mag length-.015= peeerfeeect thank you my good sir! On it immediately!
 
Got ta thinkin bout it some. What if I put a bullet in a case, push it up to tha riflin, measure that on the dowel first, then measure to my closed bolt on the dowel? Save havin ta frog around with a coat hanger and all

Sure - That would work. Normally, on a bolt rifle, you would just remove the bolt, drop the bullet into the chamber with the gun pointing down, and tamp it with dowel. Obviously one cant do it this way with a pump, so one needs to be creative...
 
Y'all gettin a little advanced with stuff now guys it's scary. But damn you have no idea how much I appreciate y'alls help! But last question... How the he'll am I supposed to seat the first bullet to start with? Just pick what looks good and stick with it? I'm never touching my 280 dies ever! But my 06 dies... I'm not done froggin around with em yet. Gonna start buying ballistic tips instead of accubonds to experiment with though, much cheaper.

The pitch on the threads of your seater stem are finite. Each turn will give you a finite point to measure from.

By seating your first bullet long, and adjusting the seating stem carefully you can get exactly the length you desire. It's as easy said as done.
 
If you want to measure the distance that matters - the position of the ogive - you need something that sits on the ogive. Like this tool:

TcA9F6T.jpg


If you know a gunsmoth, ask him to go into his scrap barrel pile and lice off a 1" piece for you. It can sit on a loaded round and serve to measure the position of the ogive.

yMiA9XZ.jpg

Very interesting approach using a piece of old barrel!
Its cleaver, but wouldn't it be kind of clumsy to measure (with repeatable results) in calipers?
I find Hornady comparators work fantastic. They are not that expensive and are damn handy for CBTO measurements (with or without the Hornady/Stoney Point OAL tool)…. Plus, if you have 2 of them, you can sort batches of projectiles based on Bearing Surface Length.
 
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