10/22 Advice

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Thermal23

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Hello
I seek some CGN counsel regarding my 10/22. Thank you in advance.
This is my first, and currently only rifle. Ruger Model 32024. I've had it about 6 weeks, and so far have really enjoyed it. It has about 1,500 rounds through it.
Typical range sessions have been 250-500 rounds so far.
To this point the gun has been stripped for two cleanings - but in neither one did I disassemble the bolt or the trigger group. They did both get sprayed down and out with G96. I tested the firing pin and the extractor movement and they felt clear and clean.
Yesterday I was attempting to figure out what ammo it likes the best, and also fool around with the torque on the takedown screw. I ran an assortment of ammo, ranging from Blazer and CCI Std Vel, through a few types of Eley, Aguilla, and then back to CCI Velocitors and Minimags. Until yesterday it had been very reliable - essentially no issues after the first 100 rounds, where I had a few issues which I believe we're operator induced.
Part way through the session yesterday I started getting all kinds of problems - revolving around failures to extract. I found a small spring on the bench at one point. It turns out the gun blew out the extractor, and the extractor spring and plunger. I was a wee bit surprised. Thankfully I recovered the spring and plunger, but the extractor itself is long gone.
In hindsight I am amazed the gun would go 5-10-20 rounds without a failure, considering that the extractor was missing!
I'm currently looking at purchasing a VQ or Kidd extractor, while also submitting a warranty claim (depending on feedback here).

So here's my questions:
  1. Did this likely happen due to lack of care on my part? Should I be actively cleaning the extractor slot - and if so how often?
  2. I read that the factory extractor could be better, and that premium options such as Kidd and VQ provide enhanced reliability and are a good value for this part. How likely is it that this is a factory defect, and that an aftermarket part would have avoided the issue?
  3. What parts should I be stocking to fix problems like this in the future? My first thought is essentially all the small parts in the bolt, but I know very little about the trigger group operation and what is likely to fail or not.
Thank you for any intel!
 
I'd contact Gravel Agencies with your information. There could be an issue with your bolt. I've owned hundreds of 1022's and yet to have one blow out an extrator. It could be caused by a case discharging when round wasn't fully chambered. Some ammunition could cause build up in the chamber of fouling or carbon. Cleaning the chamber should solve that issue.
 
As far as disassembling the trigger group, just spray it down as you have been doing, as a newby I would not recommend taking it apart, that's all that is required for now.
22 are notorious for having a carbon ring form in the chamber, so just like 357 said, keep the chamber clean.
You are very lucky to have found the plunger and spring!!!! Getting a kidd or vq extractor is an excellent idea.
I would also sugest getting an extra spring and plunger when you order the extractor. Disassembly / re-assembly,
should be done inside a large zip lock bag, to keep things from gaining wings!
The rifle worked without the extractor because it's a blow back design. In a perfect world you wouldn't need an extractor , except to remove an unfired round. Hopes this answers your ???
 
I don't think the issue was from lack of cleaning of the extractor slot. I've seen 10/22s go thousands of rounds longer without issues, with far less maintenance.

Did you happen to see a ruptured shell casing? Definitely want to be aware of carbon build up as 357Maximum said.

Get it diagnosed, but VQ's Exact Edge extractors are great. We sell them in the event that you do want one.
 
you have no warranty claim that would be normal use 10/22 ' s are prone to tossing extractors it's more about the ammo than the extractor
also your 10/22 does not need any cleaning till maybe 10,000 rounds
if it's not broken don't fix it
 
struff55 said:
you have no warranty claim that would be normal use 10/22 ' s are prone to tossing extractors it's more about the ammo than the extractor
also your 10/22 does not need any cleaning till maybe 10,000 rounds
if it's not broken don't fix it
Click to expand...

Not sure I’d agree with that. If you see carbon buildup in the chamber, then clean it. That could be 1k rounds or 5k rounds depending on ammunition.
Of course it depends on your usage and expectations but if you want consistency, keep the chamber - and all other variables - as consistent as possible.
 
Hi, I doubt anything you did caused it. It could have been a factory defect. If you didn’t notice any ruptured casings, it was likely just a defect. A ruptured casing can blow the ejector out. Somebody above said that already about the casing rupture.

The ejector is a secondary means of ejecting a casing; the primary means is gas. That was said above as well. That’s likely why the gun continued to work after the ejector failed.

I shoot precision and have a highly modified 10/22. I follow KIDD’s recommendation (I have a KIDD match barrel) of cleaning just the barrel every 200 rounds. I clean the other parts when the mood strikes me, usually around the 500–1,000 round range. That said, I routinely stick my finger in the receiver with a rag and wipe off whatever I can.

During a full disassembly, I have never removed the ejector to clean it. I occasionally spray the bolt with Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Cleaner. Sometimes I’ll lube the receiver/bolt with a dry lube—I use WD-40 Dry Lube—or I have also run it completely dry. I find that oil tends to accumulate more crud than leaving it dry, but the charging handle moves easier when there’s some slippery stuff on it.

Personally, it depends on where you’re going with the gun and whether you plan to fiddle with things later. You could use the opportunity to just put a complete aftermarket bolt in it—TandemKross, Volquartsen, KIDD, etc. If that isn’t for you, any aftermarket ejector would probably do. Really, the thing doesn’t do much, and your accuracy will never know the difference.

So you know what type of headcase I am, I bought that plastic Ruger 10/22 that came with a scope. Today, the only OEM parts on that gun are the receiver and trigger housing.

I don’t stock parts, although I probably have a few things lying around from my upgrades. Parts are so readily available that I can wait a few days to get something replaced.

Personally, for the cost of an ejector and the hassle of a warranty claim, I’d probably just buy a new ejector. My sanity is worth more than the warranty hassle. Actually if you don't mind the agrevation, do what you said, buy a new one and then submit for warranty for a spare.
 
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I am NOT saying my experiences have a relationship with your but.............I have quit using CCI SV even though it used to be my go to ammo. A year and a half ago shooting CCI sd v in my Tikka T1X I had a case head rupture. The escaping gases blew out the magazine taking the mag box with it. Replacement parts were $228.00 from the importer. Some time later I noticed a cautionary report in what turned into a very long thread on this site regarding complaints with CCI sv. I had not shot any since my incident but a friend gave me two boxes to try in a new to me gun. I shot the first box and everything seemed fine. I then started to shoot the second box. On the first shot of the second box the report was so loud that I thought I had left my muffs off !! Second shot same result. I have no evidence as to the velocity of either of those two rounds but I do have a part box of 48 cartridges I will be returning to my friend !! You might want to look up that thread on these pages. Unfortunately I do not have the computer skills to attach a link for you.
 
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