I fired my 10/22 build for the first time first 10 shots shot perfect then the bolt wouldn't lockup unless I pulled the charging handle back half way and let it slam shut. I took the gun apart and found the Buffer I bought from Hornet was mashed flat I suspect that was causing the problem, I installed the orgininal steel pin but I haven't tried it yet. The life of this buffers must be longer than 10 shots could something else be wrong?
10/22 buffer
- Thread starter bat119
- Start date
juancarlos
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- The Island
My buffer has over a thousand rounds and looks like new. Something wrong there, but I will leave it to someone with more knowledge to help diagnose.
I had never heard of the "Hornet" buffer before but a quick Google search does not inspire confidence.........
http://www.amazon.com/Hornet-Custom-Recoil-Buffers-Ruger/product-reviews/B002QMCMMO/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1
Currently I have a "Tuffer Buffer" in my 10/22 project gun. It has only a dozen or so rounds through it. However my last project had the same type (purchased a pack of 3) and it went through several thousand rounds and it was fine when I sold it. I prefer it to the steel pin as the sound is less and the lower impact has just got to be better for longevity of parts.
I am guessing that the brand you bought was just plain crap
http://www.amazon.com/Hornet-Custom-Recoil-Buffers-Ruger/product-reviews/B002QMCMMO/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1
Currently I have a "Tuffer Buffer" in my 10/22 project gun. It has only a dozen or so rounds through it. However my last project had the same type (purchased a pack of 3) and it went through several thousand rounds and it was fine when I sold it. I prefer it to the steel pin as the sound is less and the lower impact has just got to be better for longevity of parts.
I am guessing that the brand you bought was just plain crap
The buffer from Hornet is a white teflon type looks like it failed, going to try something tougher. I tried firing again with the steel buffer, same thing won't fire a second shot without pulling the bolt back halfway and letting it slam shut. I put a titanium extractor in it seems to be the only sticky spot but the bolt closes and when you pull back the shell comes with it seems to be working right. I'm going to take it apart again maybe the charging handle spring isn't strong enough? I've tried buying a new charging handle from every source in Canada with no luck. Having a bolt action semi is just no fun!
If it isn't working with the factory steel pin I would begin to suspect other problems.
Does the hammer fall but round does not fire?? (Hear a click from hammer fall)
OR
Does the hammer not fall (pull trigger but nothing not even a click)
and require the second motion (pull partially back and release) before it fires??
Depending on which of these is happening will help indicate the trouble
Simple things to try are other magazines and other ammo types, that can help diagnose the problem if it does not solve it.
Does the hammer fall but round does not fire?? (Hear a click from hammer fall)
OR
Does the hammer not fall (pull trigger but nothing not even a click)
and require the second motion (pull partially back and release) before it fires??
Depending on which of these is happening will help indicate the trouble
Simple things to try are other magazines and other ammo types, that can help diagnose the problem if it does not solve it.
Yeah, I'm thinking it was a poor quality buffer... I recently converted a 10-22 to a 10-17 HM2, I used a Yellow Jacket buffer.
The .17 HM2 cartridge has more power than the .22 LR, and the Yellow Jacket has held up perfectly.
Get yourself a Tuffer Buffer or a Yellow Jacket, a brand that you have heard of on here. You will be happier with the way it stands up. Don't settle for an Ebay special.
The .17 HM2 cartridge has more power than the .22 LR, and the Yellow Jacket has held up perfectly.
Get yourself a Tuffer Buffer or a Yellow Jacket, a brand that you have heard of on here. You will be happier with the way it stands up. Don't settle for an Ebay special.
I think that's a good idea another suspect is the target triggers adjustable sear had a ##### of a time getting it set right 1/4 turn either way and it locked up. I'll reinstall the stock parts first and go from there.
Yeah, try putting the factory parts back in the trigger group housing. See how it works after you do that.
Is it a n aluminum housing, or a plastic one? For years Ruger used the aluminum ones, but the holes for the pins were not always in the exact same places. So not all aftermarket parts work in the aluminum housings because of the way they used to make them. The reason they went with the plastic ones is so that every trigger group would be the same.
If you go check out RimfireCentral.com you might be able to find exactly what the problem is, or how to fix what is wrong (just a stab in the dark) the guys on rfc know a lot about 10-22's.
Is it a n aluminum housing, or a plastic one? For years Ruger used the aluminum ones, but the holes for the pins were not always in the exact same places. So not all aftermarket parts work in the aluminum housings because of the way they used to make them. The reason they went with the plastic ones is so that every trigger group would be the same.
If you go check out RimfireCentral.com you might be able to find exactly what the problem is, or how to fix what is wrong (just a stab in the dark) the guys on rfc know a lot about 10-22's.
After you manually chamber the first round, it sounds like your bolt is not fully cycling allowing the hammer to reset for the second shot.
My guess is that the adjustable sear is not tuned in right.
Putting the stock hammer, sear and disconnect back in and test firing would be where I would start.
My guess is that the adjustable sear is not tuned in right.
Putting the stock hammer, sear and disconnect back in and test firing would be where I would start.
Here is my theory....
The target trigger, hammer, sear, etc are all set to very close tolerances. They need to be in order to get the nice crisp, low weight trigger pull that is decidedly lacking in a factory 10/22. However, to get that crisp trigger pull, the bearing surfaces are much smaller. I suspect that in the rather fast and violent movement of the bolt flying back, the hammer is not catching on the sear and rather that staying in the "cocked" position like it is supposed to it is riding the bolt as it closes and ends up in the fired position once the cycle is completed. When you pull the bolt back part way it is much more gentle and this allows the hammer to "catch" this time and remain "cocked" until the trigger is pulled.
I bet when you return the factory parts it will function just fine, but have the atrocious trigger pull.
If your sear/trigger/hammer is adjustable (as it seems you have) when using it for the first time, have it adjusted so that the trigger is still heavy and gritty. Then run it like that for a few hundred rounds. That will give the mating surfaces a chance to "break in" and mate better, once they are a broken in, then try to adjust for a lighter trigger pull.
I have not used an adjustable trigger/sear on a 10/22 but I have used Rifle Basix triggers on a Savage and a Marlin and found that when it was newly installed I could not get the really light trigger pull I hoped for while retaining safe, reliable performance. However after a while with the trigger set "heavy" the mating surfaces wore enough that I was able to safely adjust the trigger down to a very crisp 1-1/2 lb or so.
Good luck
The target trigger, hammer, sear, etc are all set to very close tolerances. They need to be in order to get the nice crisp, low weight trigger pull that is decidedly lacking in a factory 10/22. However, to get that crisp trigger pull, the bearing surfaces are much smaller. I suspect that in the rather fast and violent movement of the bolt flying back, the hammer is not catching on the sear and rather that staying in the "cocked" position like it is supposed to it is riding the bolt as it closes and ends up in the fired position once the cycle is completed. When you pull the bolt back part way it is much more gentle and this allows the hammer to "catch" this time and remain "cocked" until the trigger is pulled.
I bet when you return the factory parts it will function just fine, but have the atrocious trigger pull.
If your sear/trigger/hammer is adjustable (as it seems you have) when using it for the first time, have it adjusted so that the trigger is still heavy and gritty. Then run it like that for a few hundred rounds. That will give the mating surfaces a chance to "break in" and mate better, once they are a broken in, then try to adjust for a lighter trigger pull.
I have not used an adjustable trigger/sear on a 10/22 but I have used Rifle Basix triggers on a Savage and a Marlin and found that when it was newly installed I could not get the really light trigger pull I hoped for while retaining safe, reliable performance. However after a while with the trigger set "heavy" the mating surfaces wore enough that I was able to safely adjust the trigger down to a very crisp 1-1/2 lb or so.
Good luck
Success ! I tried the stock parts worked flawless with yellow jackets not so much with the federal lead bullets had a few jams. I was able to go out to my buddy's farm so I could go into his shop and swap out the stock for the custom parts do some adjustments then step outside for a trial, took some adjusting to the sear but I got it right, fired 50 rounds of yellow jackets flawlessly. We applied loctite (blue) to the sear set screw waited until it set up then fired 50 more just to be sure . I am cutting one hole groups at 25 yards the gophers are going to catch hell this spring. I wouldn't have bought a trigger with adjustable sear but due to the very limited selection of parts in Canada it was all I could find.
Thanks for helpful suggestions submitted by the members
Thanks for helpful suggestions submitted by the members
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