10/22 Dlask barrel issues.

Gillen1

Gillen1

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Looking for some help from some fellow rimfire shooters.

I have installed a 12.5 Bull barrel from Dlask on my 10/22 and I have been having a great number of issues. I get stovepipes, as well as failure to load, and failure to eject issues. The chamber is a sporter one, not a bentz. (sp)

Changing the extractor to a power customs tuned extractor seems to have helped fix teh extraction issues. The cases were getting stuck half way out of the chamber.

This past weekend I was having a lot of stove pipes, as well as the rounds not loading into the gun. Probably 10-15 times the bullet would get stuck, and I would have to push it in the rest of the way by pushing the charging handle forward.


I took the barrel off last night to do a really good clean and while off I compared the chamber to my stock factory barrel.

I noticed that there were a lot more machining marks in the Dlask barrel compared to the Ruger barrel.

Here is the Dlask barrel:
cs4y7r3.jpg

HxM8sPd.jpg


And here is the ruger barrel.
McyQFX3.jpg


Could the roughness be causing issues?

I guess I should mention that the Ruger barrel is 25 years old.

So last night I cleaned the barrel, and took some metal polish to clean up the barrel face to help the rounds slide in better. It's very smooth now.

I also did a deep clean on the guns action and very minimally lubed the bolt. I think I may have had too much lube on it last time out.

Other things of note.

Before I got the new extractor, the gun would not extract any federal made ammo, but CCI was just fine.

I applied a decent amount of lube before I took it out on Sat since I heard sometimes 10/22's like lots of lube.

I notice that there is a fair amount of lead being shaved off. when I take a mag out a number of small half circle pieces of lead fall out. And when the gun does jam a round and I pull it out, the lead has been squished and deformed.

Any suggestions!?
 
I have a dlask 12.5 sportier barrel with the flutes. I have not had a chance to shoot mine but it has the same aggressive machine marks yours does. I also checked my spare factory ruger barrel (unfired) and I can see some machining marks but a lot less aggressive.

I cycled a few rounds through the gun after I read your thread, and mine ejects them fine. I know you probably already know this, but is your extractor in the middle of that little notch? Also, is your v block level, magazine issue? That's all I can think off being wrong, I'm fairly new to the 10/22.
 
I am having the exact same issue with my Dlask barrel. I have yet to find a solution. I tried to compare, but I think the Dlask barrel fits deeper into the receiver than the stock barrel. If this is true, it could explain why rounds fail to feed. My extraction problems were similar as well.
 
I just called Dlask and they said I could ship it back and they would re polish the chamber for me and test fire it. I also asked about the adjustable vblock I got from them and it sounds like I may have it too tight. I don't think I will be shipping it back quite yet, but it's good to know it's an option.

Honestly I think it may be an error on my part, since before I modified the gun further, it ran fine with CCI mini mags. No issues to speak of in the ruger or butlercreek steel liped mags.

I will try a few more things buy keep updating for those with similar issues. When I talked with DLask, they said that if I polished the chamber myself that it would pretty much void whatever warranty that it would have. Kinda like, "you messed with it, now it's not our responsibility." Which is completely fair.

So my first test fix will be: Polished barrel face, very little lube, and less tight vblock set screw. Dlask said that the vblock set screw just needs to be touching the barrel and I have it on pretty tight.
 
You guys are too nice. You got sold a product with no quality control measures in place. Send it back at their expense and get them to fix their issues.
I had a center fire Shilen barrel that was so rough from not being lapped that every time I shot it my barrel was solid. copper. Although the distributor that sold me the barrel didn't care about my issues Shilen sure did.
I don't know anything about flask but if they have half a conscience they will fix their mistake.
 
Had similar issues myself with a new 12.5 sporter, the edge of the chamber(where the rim sits) was far too sharp, FTF almost any rounds but Federal bulk, which it shaved crescents of lead from.
Chucked it in the lathe and cut a chamfer in the Dlask barrel , similar to the Ruger factory barrel and now it feeds a hell of a lot better, still seems to hang sometimes with Eley subs, due to the nose profile.

Wasn't overly impressed with the quality of the work, also the space for the extractor seemed too deep, leaving only a bare bit of the barrel liner, bluing etc.
Id purchase again but would have to inspect the barrel before buying, its possible the last run was rushed.
 
I have be having the same issues I contacted dlask and they said the same thing about the adjustable v-block I backed mine off to just touching and now if feeds and ejects fine now.who knew eh!!
 
Well, Im home now and tried loading a few rounds in and really looking at whats going on. The rounds still get stuck while going into the chamber. The extracted rounds have a grad mark through the lead. It looks like to me, the edge of the chamber is too sharp/straight for the round to go in easily. Maybe an extra power recoil spring would help push the rounds in. The 10/22 is 25 years old so it may be worn out??
 
I fixed my fail to feed problem by backing the barrel out of the receiver a bit and then tightened up the adjustable V-block. IIRC....the barrel was in a fraction of an inch to far and the mags did not seat well....
 
SKScanuck said:
I fixed my fail to feed problem by backing the barrel out of the receiver a bit and then tightened up the adjustable V-block. IIRC....the barrel was in a fraction of an inch to far and the mags did not seat well....
Click to expand...

Ooohhh. That sounds like a promising candidate to fix my problem.
 
I tried backing the barrel out, but when tightening up the vblock, it went back into the normal spot. Should I try putting a spacer of some kind in there?
 
Gillen1 said:
I tried backing the barrel out, but when tightening up the vblock, it went back into the normal spot. Should I try putting a spacer of some kind in there?
Click to expand...

I asked SKScanuck to show me some pics of his rifle, since I figured you'd have to shim it or something to get it to stay out. I'll post them here with his permission once I get them. Or he can.
 
I figure I might as well post them.

You need an ADJUSTABLE V-Block. You can make one by drilling and tapping a non-adjustable one too.....all it needs is that set screw to stop it from pushing the barrel all the way in.

My bad-ass Dlask DAR10/22:
2014-04-06161001_zps11ad817c.jpg


A view inside the receiver looking at barrel...
2014-04-06161013_zps2a53c0bf.jpg


Looking down the barrel at V-block, gun upside down so the trigger group is on top.

2014-04-06161437_zps13d857ac.jpg


Looking directly down on adjustable V-block, note set screw in the middle of v-block. This allen head screw holds the block tight against the barrel.

2014-04-06161256_zpsbe753173.jpg


Looking at V-block from the side. Note the gap between block and receiver. The set screw holds this in place so the barrel is not all the way in.

2014-04-06161312_zpse2e88341.jpg
 
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