10/22 feeding issue.


Roger. That's pretty detailed, and an excellent critique.

I can't say as I agree, completely. But, some of your points I've raised myself, like it feeling "clunky", but I don't see how you get around that with a fat rotary mag. Your other options are a tube mag, stick mag that protrudes below the action ala Savage 64/Marlin 795 or figure 8 mag like the T Bolt. Each has it's own design and use trade offs.

The bolt lock is bonkers lousy. if they scrapped it and saved the production costs and included a chamber flag instead it would be a far better solution. I grew up learning to shoot on old Mossberg semi autos that didn't have a last shot hold open either though. I learned to count shots, and I would argue that's actually one of the important bits. I can say it actually served me well later in life in an army career. Knowing whether you have 15 or 5 rounds left in that mag and should drop and reload or keep it in for your next engagement is a pretty good skill to have developed from youth. Mag release I've never had an issue with, push forward with my index finger in front of the trigger guard and it drops free. The drop at comb is a lot from a modern perspective. If that's an issue, there's plenty of offerings that solve that. I don't find it an issue. I have a 4-12×40 on Leupold PRW lows on top of the rail that came with it. I don't find any need for a higher comb, and I like a high cheek weld, not a chin weld.

Love the Nylon 66 too, another .22 I grew up learning to shoot on. Nothing between them and the 10/22 apart from modularity and wear and tear on old 66s, but that's not their fault.

Dunno about the front sights, not to discount it but mine drifted fine for adjustment with light taps. Then I stole it and put it in my 77/44 while I had another on order. I don't know how you would de index your barrel driving a sight out unless you were a total goon. There's no need to apply any stress to that junction. If there was, the answer is simple - remove the barrel first. But I fail to understand how you could twist a barrel relative to the receiver by driving out a front sight unless you're a mechanical rapist and doing it very very wrong. I find most other stock semi .22 triggers in the same price range to be distinctions without a difference, they're all about the same quality. Some easier to tinker with others. A modicum of skill and a drill press and a few hours you can DIY mod a Marlin 795 trigger to be pretty good. Certainly better than a stock AR trigger anyway. It's a function of the price range. I will confess to having no experience with the 597, and I'm going to rectify that.
 
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Roger. That's pretty detailed, and an excellent critique.

I can't say as I agree, completely. But, some of your points I've raised myself, like it feeling "clunky", but I don't see how you get around that with a fat rotary mag. Your other options are a tube mag, stick mag that protrudes below the action ala Savage 64/Marlin 795 or figure 8 mag like the T Bolt. Each has it's own design and use trade offs.

The bolt lock is bonkers lousy. if they scrapped it and saved the production costs and included a chamber flag instead it would be a far better solution. I grew up learning to shoot on old Mossberg semi autos that didn't have a last shot hold open either though. I learned to count shots, and I would argue that's actually one of the important bits. I can say it actually served me well later in life in an army career. Knowing whether you have 15 or 5 rounds left in that mag and should drop and reload or keep it in for your next engagement is a pretty good skill to have developed from youth. Mag release I've never had an issue with, push forward with my index finger in front of the trigger guard and it drops free. The drop at comb is a lot from a modern perspective. If that's an issue, there's plenty of offerings that solve that. I don't find it an issue. I have a 4-12×40 on Leupold PRW lows on top of the rail that came with it. I don't find any need for a higher comb, and I like a high cheek weld, not a chin weld.

Love the Nylon 66 too, another .22 I grew up learning to shoot on. Nothing between them and the 10/22 apart from modularity and wear and tear on old 66s, but that's not their fault.

Dunno about the front sights, not to discount it but mine drifted fine for adjustment with light taps. Then I stole it and put it in my 77/44 while I had another on order. I don't know how you would de index your barrel driving a sight out unless you were a total goon. There's no need to apply any stress to that junction. If there was, the answer is simple - remove the barrel first. But I fail to understand how you could twist a barrel relative to the receiver by driving out a front sight unless you're a mechanical rapist and doing it very very wrong. I find most other stock semi .22 triggers in the same price range to be distinctions without a difference, they're all about the same quality. Some easier to tinker with others. A modicum of skill and a drill press and a few hours you can DIY mod a Marlin 795 trigger to be pretty good. Certainly better than a stock AR trigger anyway. It's a function of the price range. I will confess to having no experience with the 597, and I'm going to rectify that.

It's quite common since Ruger inexplicably starting GLUING their front sight in. People who don't have a barrel vise will lay the gun on the their lap and start tapping at the front sight with a brass punch. Since the front sight can't move, all those little taps gradually rotate the barrel in the receiver.
 
It's quite common since Ruger inexplicably starting GLUING their front sight in. People who don't have a barrel vise will lay the gun on the their lap and start tapping at the front sight with a brass punch. Since the front sight can't move, all those little taps gradually rotate the barrel in the receiver.

That's still mechanical rape. You don't need a barrel vise to not put stress on the joint, you just need to not secure it by the receiver, and to support it under the sight ramp. A couple of pieces of scrap wood will work just fine. Secondly, if you know it's glued in, then apply heat with a torch first.
 
The carbon will just fall off after it has built up too much or be scraped off or hammered of or ground off by your gun. How hard is carbon? Oh yeah just add heat and it becomes the hardest thing known to man. Any of you hommies out there heard of a carbon ring and how hard they are to remove? Try not too pee ur pants to all the guys in the know, I appologize beforehand. You guys that clean ur guns regularly have been just wastin ur time fools. We have a new player in town thats gunnah change the way rimfires operate. Hes gonna make the 1/2" challenge with S@B ammo and melt Glenns brain. Sorry Glenn and I hope you get things in order quickly. Stock ruger with upgraded trigger and 5750 or more rounds thru it and its just getting better. NO MALFUNCTIONS well other than bad ammo. Im sure most on here know how many rounds I fire in a year and been shooting for over fifty years and someone has had more bad rounds in 5750 than Ive had in 50,000 rounds. Guess he has just been unlucky!! YO FOR REAL
 
Clean it, lube it and keep shooting. Polish feed and mag ramps(1000 grit paper) if you must but it is just stickiness that slows down everything so certain bullets don't feed.
I've owned a lot of 10/22's. Do the above recommendation.
I have 2000 dead gophers that says my method works around Viking Alberta.
 
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How hard is carbon? Oh yeah just add heat and it becomes the hardest thing known to man.

If I end up making diamonds in a 10/22, I'm calling that a win. FYI though, just adding heat isn't sufficient, otherwise you'd get diamonds in your campfire. It also takes tremendous PRESSURE. Unfortunately I don't think it'll happen..

Anyway, I'll keep posting updates of how this experiment goes; we'll see what happens ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Still love to see your results with a stock Carbine, if you have them.
 
That's still mechanical rape. You don't need a barrel vise to not put stress on the joint, you just need to not secure it by the receiver, and to support it under the sight ramp. A couple of pieces of scrap wood will work just fine. Secondly, if you know it's glued in, then apply heat with a torch first.

Sigh.
 
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