10/22 firing pin too short?

Here is a very detailed project on rimfire central about the firing pin area strike needed to get better ignition and where the pin should dimple the case for good ignition very well done and could be done to your gun the same way.
They also explain the wasted area on the strike where there is no primer in the shell and it just dents solid brass no primer in that particular area. I would re profile the end of your pin as is done in the suggested thread.

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=602579

R
 
Here is a very detailed project on rimfire central about the firing pin area strike needed to get better ignition and where the pin should dimple the case for good ignition very well done and could be done to your gun the same way.
They also explain the wasted area on the strike where there is no primer in the shell and it just dents solid brass no primer in that particular area. I would re profile the end of your pin as is done in the suggested thread.

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=602579

R

That is a very informative article. I never sat back and thought about this topic before as I've not had the OP's issue with my 10/22's. But now that I've read that article I shall be taking all my 10/22's apart and likely my BL22 and reprofiling the firing pin... was certainly a "well duh" moment when I realized there's energy being wasted by compressing the outer rim of the cartridge... I can see a lot less ammo failing because of this.
 
Here is a very detailed project on rimfire central about the firing pin area strike needed to get better ignition and where the pin should dimple the case for good ignition very well done and could be done to your gun the same way.
They also explain the wasted area on the strike where there is no primer in the shell and it just dents solid brass no primer in that particular area. I would re profile the end of your pin as is done in the suggested thread.

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=602579

R

great article and definitely something I will try. I was already re-profiling the firing pin to reduce the energy wasted towards the center of the cartridge where there is no primer material. This will make an even better improvement.
 
Many owners don't realize that on the inside outer od of the case and rim there is no primer just two layers of brass so,reduce the footprint inward somewhat and use the same energy on a re profiled firing pin to your favor. After reading there is a lot of info but well detailed. On a 455 cz you need to pay attention as the footprint will be altered and you need to keep that in mind as the same bolt and striker are utilized for 17hmr & magnum that have a larger diameter rim than the 22lr.You could then buy a spare striker just for 17hmr. I hope it does help fix the 1022 with the fail to fire syndrome.Glad to give my2¢ on that one.
I have a 452 scout that i will do in the next couple of weeks.

R
 
Update.-

After reading the replies here I started collecting and analyzing misfired brass. A lot of them didn't even have a strike dent. And when it did it was very light. I also noted that it was very common for the bolt to not fully close after cycling from a successfully fired round. I pushed forward on the bolt to do a forward assist and the bolt would click on as it moved forward to fully closed position.

In conclusion, in addition to having a slightly short firing pin, there was something wonky with the entire bolt assembly. I sent it back to Snapshots in Quebec for Ruger warranty work. It came back with a report that said they swapped the entire bolt assembly. Took it out into the bush for testing. We went through almost half a brick of Remington thunderbolts. Only one misfire in the entire session. My 7 year old was beside himself ringing steel with uninterrupted rapid fire. Now he wants more mags. He says its too boring to have to stop to refill mags after only going through 35 rounds. I haven't yet told him off the existence of speed loaders.
 
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