Ruger 10/22 extractors are a little bit hit and miss. I had an issue with mine being a little "tight". Yet when I posted about my fix and test procedure at RFC the replies indicated that most replaced their extractors due to them being too loose. The outcome was that it's worth checking and then fix it if needed. Sharpening up the angle is a nice idea too if it needs it and the hook is not too loose. Again I gather that Ruger doesn't spend a lot of detail time on them once they come off the big punch so at least looking them over helps a lot.
Note that rounding the lower edge of the hook's face is geared towards letting the rounds slip into place more easily and consistently. Of the lot this is the one bit that for me was a step up in reliability.
Here's the sketch. I think I might have posted it here as well. I don't recall at the moment.
Next up is shimming or otherwise fixing up the magazines so they seat at the right angle and don't move around. I found that it doesn't take a whole lot of a shift to make them stop feeding well. As a result the biggest advantage of the little 10 round mags is that they are up where we can't hold onto them and where they don't get kicked around. But the longer mags can work provided they can be shimmed or fixed with adjustment screws to allow the seating position to be secured. With that in mind you really can't beat the Tactical Innovations mags with the little adjustment screws. But Loctite the screws! ! ! !
After my success with the TI mags I added small adjustment screws to some "no name" plastic mags which had given me no end of problems. I also added a shim that holds the magazine firmly forward in the well. This last shim needs to be just along the lower edge so the upper area can "swing" up into place. But eliminating any fore and aft play is almost as critical to reliable operation as the seating angle and anything else I found.
Another 10/22 potential issue is the heel of the corner at the spot where the bolt face meets the spine that runs along the bottom of the bolt. Mine was sharp and distinctly 90°. It was sharp enough that it was digging into the lead of the bullet sitting below the round that was stripped off to load in the chamber. I fixed this with a very slight rounding and so it would glide over the riding band of the bullet in the mag. I've got a picture but it doesn't show the mod well since it's so slight an amount of metal that was removed. But if you can run your finger over this corner and it catches then it's a sure bet that it's worth buffing off a hair's worth of metal. And for this case since the idea is to remove rough corners I used a light touch from a rubberized abrasive wheel in my Dremel. But a few swipes with a little strip of 600 grit sandpaper would do fine as well.
You can tell if you want to do this by letting the gun strip a round then drop the mag and inspect the skirt of the bullet in the mag. If the lead is grooved or otherwise heavily marked then you need to round over and buff this corner. If it's OK and stays that way for a wide variety of ammo then don't worry about it. If you need to remove some don't go crazy. Just give it a kiss and smooth it. If you remove too much it won't catch and lift the round to be stripped correctly. So don't make a new problem while fixing the first one.
To you guys wishing that there were events like this at your own club? Clubs run on volunteers. The reason there's no events of this sort is because no one is willing to put them on. If you like the idea of how this sounds then attend a meeting and find a few folks that would like to see such an event. Make a motion that you and the other helpers that want to try this get a date to run the event. Send out emails to the folks in the club and maybe put posters advertising the event in the local gun stores. THIS is how such things get started. Not wishing that "someone" would do something like this. Instead step up and put in a little time to BE that "someone". And if you can get a few others to help then the work load becomes very light. It's not that hard to put on such an event. Just work with the the available targets for the time being. Buy steel or other options later once you see how the match is attended.
One such match (tactical rifle actually) was run on this basis. We got ONE target which we shot at different distances on the rifle range and from different positions and it was scored at the end. Each course of fire was started and ended by a little blast of an air horn. Time was limited such that one could not lollygag with "tender" trigger pulls. And no bipods or rests other than the shooter's arms were allowed. Positions were prone for 200 yards, knelling for 100 and standing for 50. Mags were not limited in any way but one reload was mandatory at some point in each string of 10 rounds. Then there was an IPSC/IDPA style CQB stage with regular cardboard IDPA targets which were scored and patched between shooters. Shooters had to use the same sighting setup for the whole match be it scope, red dot or plain sights. The distances for rimfire might be toned down to 100, 50 and 25 but the idea could be the same. The mix of tasks made it a whole lot of fun too.
The big thing is to step up and be the person that makes it happen. That's how you get such events.
