10/22 Heavy Barrel float

Ty500+

Ty500+

CGN Regular
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Location
Southern Ontario
Hello all, just bought my first 10/22.
It's a totally factory VLEH with a synthetic hogue stock and a .920"dia, 16-1/4" barrel.
And it DOES contact the stock. Not on the underside, only on the RH edge..and just barely.

My question is this, should it, or should it not be floated?
I was once told the heavy 10/22 barrels require support due to the V-Block style of mouting system.

I cant really sand the stock as it is rubbery coated to float it. I dont know how to move the whole barreled action to center it in the stock channel either.

Suggestions?
 
thats just the Hogue stock thats a little warped to one side is all.
i have the same problem with a OD green Hogue stock on one of my 10/22's.

it wont effect that cold forged barrel any IMHO.
it more so lightly resting on the barrel then offering any support or anything, i know with mine it on a stock ruger barrel and i can actually move the Hogue stock back and forth 2" each way around the barrel, its very free floated.

no, i wouldn't worry about it at all, it not offering any support and wont change the harmonics of that heavy barrel.
if it really freaks you out you could pop the stock off and maybe heat it up some and try to bend it the other way some and then cool it off.
or use a paint stripper gun on it to heat it and bend it, its only plastic so it will go where you put it.
or - get a chunk of wooden dowel and wrap in some fine grit sandpaper and sand the inner barrel channel a little to make some more room.

seriouslly though i wouldn't worry about it, mine dosnt do anything to my barrel other then cause my OCD to flare up.
 
You can bed the action with a wedge in place to center the stock. You can also try a a pressure pad an inch from the end of the forearm to support the barrel... many find that 10/22's shoot better with a pressure pad... but before you do anything, shoot the gun with various ammo and see how it does... if it is excellent then don't touch it.
 
Much appreciated guys. I will try it with a few different ammunitons and see what's up first.

Although I only have some CCI MiniMag CPHP, Winchester CPHP both in 36gr..and some 40gr. LRN Thunderbolts because it is kinda hard to get a variety of ammo in Brampton.

Wayupnorth, I understand your OCD issue. Im the same way..the lack of parallelism in the barrel channel is quietly eating at me.

Hoytcanon, what would you suggest for a pressure pad? Piece of foam tape or something more rigid?
 
Ty500+ said:
Hoytcanon, what would you suggest for a pressure pad? Piece of foam tape or something more rigid?
Click to expand...

Temporarily, you can use two-sided tape and a piece of rubber inner tube from an old bycicle tire... continue building up and testing until you hit the sweet spot.
 
hoytcanon said:
Temporarily, you can use two-sided tape and a piece of rubber inner tube from an old bycicle tire... continue building up and testing until you hit the sweet spot.
Click to expand...

Id also point out that the amount of torque you place on the take down screw can play a large role as well. If you have a torque wrench this can help with using a consistent amount of torque.
 
Will keep that in mind, and when I finally get out to use it I'll show what it, ..and myself are capable of.

As a novice shooter Im sure the gun will likely out perform me for the time being. Still..will be interesting to see what can be put on paper at 50 & 100m
 
You can also try a "soft" bed technique...bed the entire length of the barrel using silicone caulking. It supports the barrel but doesn't really apply any significant pressure to it. This can also be combined with a pressure point such as Hoytcanon described.

If you find that the contact point on one side really, really bugs you, putting the stock into the freezer for 24 hours will allow you to very effectively sand it, although only for a few minutes until it heats up and gets soft again. You can repeat this as many times as needed to remove the material you want...it sounds as though one treatment will probably be enough for the situation you are describing. Works well, very easy to do.
 
my question is this..... bedding a cold forged bull barrel for a 22...... really?

i guess its not so much of a question as a pondering.
my brain just dosnt wrap around that.
i cant see a rubber stock resting up against that barrel doing anything.

now i have to go check my 18.5" bull barrel 10/22 that i have in a hogue, damn OCD!
 
wayupnorth said:
my question is this..... bedding a cold forged bull barrel for a 22...... really?

i guess its not so much of a question as a pondering.
my brain just dosnt wrap around that.
i cant see a rubber stock resting up against that barrel doing anything.

now i have to go check my 18.5" bull barrel 10/22 that i have in a hogue, damn OCD!
Click to expand...

Well...with a heavy barrel, especially a full-length heavy barrel, you have a tiny little aluminum receiver, held to the stock with one little bolt. Then you have a massive steel barrel hanging out front doing its level best to lever that receiver right out of the stock. If the barrel is free floating that just gives it a good running start at achieving that goal. It's like an overbalanced teeter totter on that stock mounting bolt. Bedding the barrel, either full-length or with a pressure point, stabilizes the whole thing. I don't think anyone is suggesting that a pressure point or a bedding job are doing anything significant to barrel vibrations or harmonics...but who knows?
 
Never heard of silicon bedding before... Wonder what it would do for accuracy. I have a Dlask 16" .920 on order, I thought I would just leave the front portion of the stock contacting the barrel and bed the action and take town screw.
 
It is a tough call..

Obviously people are having luck/accuracy with floating the heavy barrels..
Others the same with a bit of forestock support.

My thought process is that of Jjohnwm, weight and leverage on a scale of 1:16 damn near. All held in by a small little V block

Regardless of my hunches, I really do want to see/hear what everybody has tried and gotten as a result
 
When I used the silicone, it wasn't an attempt to improve the accuracy, as the two guns in question were already excellent shooters. I just wanted to support the barrel a bit and take some of the stress off the receiver. Before bedding, a tiny amount of pressure could rock the barreled action in the stock a tiny bit. Afterwards, there was no motion whatsoever even with a fair bit of pressure applied to the barrel, and the accuracy remained stellar. Adding an extra screw through the back of the receiver and stock also stabilized the assembly, but I was still concerned about the stress on the receiver. Silicone was a quick, easy and effective solution for me.
 
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