10/22 problem

W

wheeler

Regular
Rating - 100%
5   0   0
Location
Lost In the Bush...
Hey guys/gals. I have a small little problem.

I purchased the Volquartsen match hammer and sear, and extractor.

I removed the stock hammer and sear, and installed the new one.

The only problem I have is that the trigger return plunger dosen't seem to sit on the trigger square now that I installed the new spring onto the plunger. As well as the safety doesn't function.... IF it's in the safe position and cocked, it will still fire.

Any ideas as to what I might have overlooked or done incorrectly?? I didn't take any part of the safety apart!
 
no, but you did change the sear. the safety locks the sear from moving. you have altered the clearances that lock out the sear.

off the top of my head, i'm not sure how to fix it, i'll look. in the meantime, someone else will probably answer!
 
I bet your sear is just a tiny bit taller than the factory one. It's a common problem and can easily be filed down. As for the plunger I'm not sure why it wouldn't sit square. I radiused mine by inserting into the dremel and spinning it against a wet stone which rounded the end of it and I believe gave me a smoother trigger pull.
 
Well I'll have to take it back apart and compare the difference between the two. I installed the parts this morning right before I left for work up north. So it's going to be a few weeks before I can look at it.

So the safety locks out the sear??
 
Yes, when then safety is pushed to the fire position it lets the sear travel forward releasing the hammer and letting it fall. If fit is anything like a PC kit apparently the sear/safety fitting can be a problem and is also mentioned in the instsall kit. I would not file anything though, first make sure that your safety is travelling both directions all the way and not being obstructed. If it is working properly and still firing with the safety on then you may have too much clearance between the sear/safety. For that I do not have a remidy, but I am sure if you took it to a qualified Smith they would fix 'er up for ya. As for the plunger, it never sat square with the trigger shoe because the hole is drilled on a little bit of an angle, so the best and easiest thing to do is to radius it, and as savagelh pointed out it should also smoothen the pull of the trigger a little bit.
 
Last edited:
Well I did fix this problem today.

I emailed Volquartsen, and they replied

Hi Jason,

On some trigger groups, .005" needs to be removed off the long leg of the sear (you should be able to see where the safety is rubbing). This can be done with a file or stone fairly easy or you can send the sear to us for this modification.

Best Regards,
Nic


And yes this is what I did and it worked perfect. Once I took it apart you could see where it was rubbing. So I just filed it and tryed it and it was perfect.

So thanks for the replies and you were obviously correct savagelh, it was easily filed.

I'm going to try the dremel and radius my plunger as well.
 
I posted the above post before I reinstalled the trigger assembly to the reciever. Once I did so, the safety was still fine, but I had a spot when pulling back the action that seemed to bind up. So I was worried that it may cause some jams. I took everything all back apart, gave the sear a bit more of a file, and noticed that on the hammer where the spring seats inside of it was marked up. So I put a little oil in the pocket where it seats, and put a light oil on basically everything, and it's still has a little bind but I believe it just needs to be broken in and the parts will wear together properly and it will smooth out. A few hundred rounds should do the trick!
 
When you put it back together did you put the hammer strut back in with the open side of the C clip facing up.if its facing down it will cause the hammer to bind.go to rimfire centeral.com and look at the sticky for hammer and trigger mods.go into forums then tips and tricks .the hammer strut is the small bar with the spring on it held on by a C clip .it sits into the back of the hammer.
 
you were correct rembolt. I had indeed installed the c-clip facing downwards. It made a little difference, but there is still a small bind. While I had it apart, I had a look, and all it seems to be is when the action makes contact with the hammer to #### it, seems a little tight. I can see a small mark where it's been making contact. I'm sure it'll "break" in. Well I sure hope so! lol
 
wheeler said:
The only problem I have is that the trigger return plunger dosen't seem to sit on the trigger square now that I installed the new spring onto the plunger.
Any ideas as to what I might have overlooked or done incorrectly?? I didn't take any part of the safety apart!
Click to expand...

The plunger bore in the housing is not straight, it's made this way so the bore does not intersect the slot for the hammer strut/spring. In other words, it was always crooked, you just noticed now;)
 
Glad most of your issues have been resolved. The binding you speak of shouldn't be a problem when actually firing. You'll only notice it when racking the bolt. It could be grit around the spring that sits around the guide rod above the bolt. I just cleaned mine with break cleaner and it got rid of the gritty feeling. Also you mentioned you gave everything a light oiling? I wouldn't recommend that. 10/22's like to run dry I find so I clean and de-grease everything and use mine like that.

I think working on and trouble shooting these rifles is the best part of owning them.
 
I am actually having the same problem.

I have the Volquartsen HP Kit.

#1 my safety won't go into the "safe" position. It works on "fire", and goes halfway into "safe" Can anyone point out which part on the sear needs to be filed?

#2 The plunger also sits crooked on mine.


Also, does anyone have an extra stock screw I could buy? My 10/22 never came with one and I have been excitedly waiting to install my Hogue Stock.

Thanks!
 
chriseccle said:
I am actually having the same problem.

I have the Volquartsen HP Kit.

#1 my safety won't go into the "safe" position. It works on "fire", and goes halfway into "safe" Can anyone point out which part on the sear needs to be filed?

#2 The plunger also sits crooked on mine.


Also, does anyone have an extra stock screw I could buy? My 10/22 never came with one and I have been excitedly waiting to install my Hogue Stock.

Thanks!
Click to expand...



IF you take your trigger assembly off the reciever, and pull out the hammer, push the safety into the safe and fire position. You WILL see where the sear is hitting the safety. Once you see that, just take out the sear and file the bottom of the sear down. Very simple to do. Yeah the plunger just sits crooked I guess.
 
wheeler said:
I posted the above post before I reinstalled the trigger assembly to the reciever. Once I did so, the safety was still fine, but I had a spot when pulling back the action that seemed to bind up. So I was worried that it may cause some jams. I took everything all back apart, gave the sear a bit more of a file, and noticed that on the hammer where the spring seats inside of it was marked up. So I put a little oil in the pocket where it seats, and put a light oil on basically everything, and it's still has a little bind but I believe it just needs to be broken in and the parts will wear together properly and it will smooth out. A few hundred rounds should do the trick!
Click to expand...



Well like I mentioned here in this post, after I installed my new hammer and sear, I was having some binding issues.

I took the gun out and fired about 200rds a couple weeks ago. I had a lot of jams, and it wasn't getting any better.

So after reading about how to chamfer the bolt, I decieded to do that mod today.

While I had the gun apart I noticed the new hammer was hitting the inside of the trigger assembly. Upon further inspection I noticed that the new hammer is a lot differnet than the stock one or even some of the other aftermarket ones. The end of the hammer is square compared to the stock hammer which has a bevel on it so it doesn't hit the insided of the trigger assembly.


So what I did is got the dremel out and ground out some of the metal untill the hammer sat nicely when cocked and didn't hit.

I as well did the chamfer bolt mod. I had a nice sanding disc on the grinder and beveled it up nicely. I didn't go crazy and left a little bit of a lip.



All I can say is WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!! A world of difference! The bolt cycles soo smooth now and no binding! I can't wait to go and fire a few hundred rounds down the barrel an see how it improved all the ftf, and jams.


Now I know the pic of where I took the dremel is hard to see but you get the idea and can see the difference in the two hammers.




DSCF1038.jpg


DSCF1041.jpg


DSCF1039.jpg


DSCF1040.jpg
 
Ok, well yesterday I grabbed my 10/22 and went out to crank off some rounds and try it out and see how it worked now. I stopped at wholesale sports and grabbed a bulk pack of Federal 525rds.

The first 25rds out of the steel lip butler creek mag worked flawlessly! I must of fired 200rds and it worked great! NO jams, ftf or fte! ( what does stovepipe, mean?? )

BUT...... then it happened... My daughter was firing the gun and it just wouldn't fire. So I figured it was a ftf. I cocked it again but there was a shell in the chamber, and no mark from the firing pin on the case. This must of happened about every 5th or 6th rnd. I was kinda baffled because IF you took the safety and turned it on then back off again, the gun would fire the round. SO I know the gun is cocked but for some wierd reason the sear must be engaging the saftey......


Does anyone have any idea why this would happen?? I know this would have NOTHING to do with the ammo. I'm going to tear the gun apart and giver a really good cleaning and try it again and see what happens.



I must say though, the trigger pull is very smooth now and the chamfered bolt helped out alot. My gun likes the Federal Bulk rnds anyway.
 
A stovepipe shell is a fired shell that gets caught in the action with the open end of the case pointing out.sounds as though the dissconnector is not lineing up with the notch in the safety.
 
Well I had the gun back out today.

At first I cranked out 25 shots from the bc mag without a prob. Second 25rnds not soo good.

I figured it out thanks to a buddy. It would not fire because the return spring behind the trigger had NOT pushed the trigger out where it should be. You could push it out by hand and it would work great. So I have to take it apart and do the radius mod, and double check the spring.


Other than that it worked amazing. It shoots the Federal Bulk packs of hollow points good. Not one problem with the shells or mag. Prolly shot off 300rds without one issue!!!
 
You will notice that that the hole that the trigger return spring goes into is on a slight angle this is normal from what I have learned.when you remove the plunger and spring roll up a piece of very fine sand paper and give the hole a light touch up to remove any burrs that may be affecting plunger travel.
 
rembolt said:
You will notice that that the hole that the trigger return spring goes into is on a slight angle this is normal from what I have learned.when you remove the plunger and spring roll up a piece of very fine sand paper and give the hole a light touch up to remove any burrs that may be affecting plunger travel.
Click to expand...




Right on, I never thought of cleaning it with a fine piece of sandpaper. I had read it was on an angle though. haha. I thought it was drilled wrong at first, and found out it should be on an angle.
 
Double check that the plunger spring and the sear/disconnector spring were not mixed up in the rebuild. I have had it happen to me once and heard it happen before with the exact same symptoms.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom