10/22 scope base coming loose.

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zeegler

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My buddy has a 10/22 takedown, and at the range on Sunday I notice that he's having a real hard time getting on paper at 50yards. Something must be wrong right, he can't be THAT bad a shot. So a couple minutes later I notice he's stopped shooting entirely, and I look over and he has his scope off. The scope base screws had loosened right up and it was flopping around all over the place. He says he tightened them up pretty well before installing the scope. First off, I can't believe that Ruger is still using slotted screws. What is this, the 19th century? Anyway, he wants to know if he should use locktite on the screws to stop it happening again. What say you, experts?
 
De grease the holes and screws with brake cleaner and use blue Loctite and you should be fine. I have seen this happen a bunch of time before at the range. I still can't figure out why anyone would install any base without glueing it, even on a 22.
 
Locktite or a little silicone at the underside of the screw head will stop it from loosening as well. That way you don't get anything in the threads.
 
Slotted screws, with the proper bit, is still far superior to anything out there. However, most of us, myself included, rarely choose the proper bit.

A little bit of purple loctite will be good, yes. Blue will work as well. Just remember to use very minimal amounts so I'd doesn't run anywhere inside. Something I have done in other applications is to put the screws in and then flip the object over for a few hours while it dries. This way if it does run at all, it runs to the head of the screw rather than in to other parts. Less is better in this application.
 
Use blue locktite and torque to spec. Over tightening the base screws can easily strip the threads on the receiver.
 
Thanks guys. I told him to use blue Loctite, and then got thinking that maybe I should ask here in case there was something I hadn't considered.

I don't want to start an argument over this, but I can't think of a single situation where slotted screws are superior to hex or torx head screws.
 
It has to do with surface area. With a proper fitting bit there is more surface area in the slot of the screw than there is with torx, Allen, Phillips, Robertson, etc.

That being said, I prefer Allen or torx myself as well, just that there isn't anything wrong with slotted and the it really is a superior screw head, just more frustrating and way less user friendly. I don't know how many cuts I've gotten on my fingers from the driver slipping from the head.
 
never used loctite.
for years and years had no problem.
then one day im out shooting and my scope drops off while im mid-mag.
went to the store and picked up a couple bottles of loctite and one of those screwdrivers you can set the lb at and i spent a day doing all my scopes and compensators - basically anything that is bolted onto any of my guns.

would not want that to happen while out hunting!
 
Slotted screws???? No thanks I will pass. Unless I want to strip it, cut myself or put a huge scratch across the rifle. I like the idea about turning the rifle upside down after using Loctite.
 
One tip when using loctite wait 24 hours before going to the range even with loctite the vibration can shake it loose before it sets.
 
If you have one, use a Fat Wrench or a similar adjustable torque driver. I've seen a couple guys at the range strip and even break screws while trying to tighten down a scope. You really do not want to be reefing down on things. Similarly, you don't want to be undertightening things either.

I use a Fat Wrench for all scope installations and carry one in my range kit. I've never had to use Loctite as tightening to spec usually does the trick. I'm not opposed to using Loctite; I've just never found that I needed it.

As others have noted, cleaning screws and holes beforehand helps. Inspect the screws and holes and make sure that you don't have any boogered threads.
 
The factory metal buffer will cause undue (metal-on-metal "CLANG") vibration and can eventually work the rail screws loose. Replace the buffer with a polyurethane unit, or a two part buffer like a Kidd, and then Loc-tite the rail screws.
 
MDF said:
If you have one, use a Fat Wrench or a similar adjustable torque driver. I've seen a couple guys at the range strip and even break screws while trying to tighten down a scope. You really do not want to be reefing down on things. Similarly, you don't want to be undertightening things either.

I use a Fat Wrench for all scope installations and carry one in my range kit. I've never had to use Loctite as tightening to spec usually does the trick. I'm not opposed to using Loctite; I've just never found that I needed it.

As others have noted, cleaning screws and holes beforehand helps. Inspect the screws and holes and make sure that you don't have any boogered threads.
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I stripped out my 10/22 while using my Fat wrench, sometimes it just happens no matter what you do.
 
Never used it myself till my my new to me rem 7400 30-06 was shooting all over the place. Funny thing was previous owner didn't use loctite on scope bases but used red on the forend bolt. I had one b*#ch of a time getting that apart. Can't figure out why he would do that. After having to use propane torch to get it out and luckily not burning my stock (wrapped in wet rag) I never put any back on and have fired likely 350-400 rds it's never loosened off. As for bases I blue loctited every gun after that one.
 
Remove the bolt while you're loctiting in the base, otherwise you may get loctite in the bolt.

The Ruger threads are quite weak; I used a gentle torque, I think it was 6 in lbs, and it worked fine.
 
instead of Loctite, I have been using dollar store clear nail polish and mounted at least 200 scope with out any issues
 
What's the torque range to install the scope base on a 10/22 receiver? 12-15 lb/in? Would the loctite work as a lubricant when tightening the screw - so use a lower torque setting? Thanks.
 
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