10/22 stuck barrel
- Thread starter Hort Tech
- Start date
manicmechanic
CGN Regular
If you check out rimfire central there are several tips and tricks listed for most firearm manufacturers.
Have seen a home made "barrel pusher" (copied from a tool from Brownells) for the 10/22 that fits inside the receiver plus some other solutions that may help.
Tom
Have seen a home made "barrel pusher" (copied from a tool from Brownells) for the 10/22 that fits inside the receiver plus some other solutions that may help.
Tom
Last edited:
I feel for you.
I put a kidd barrel in a dlask receiver. Such a crazy tight fit. Did the heated receiver/ cold barrel thing. About 1/4” in I realized it was not coming out even if I had too.
I guess what worked for me to index the barrel might be useful to you to get it out.
I made some wood barrel clamps for my vice by drilling a 7/8” hole in a piece of wood then ripping it in half. it was the only way I could get enough grip on the barrel to tap the receiver to the proper location.
Maybe try freezing the barrel and receiver, pull out, then hover the receiver over the burner on your stove as the alum should expand more than the steel. Try putting some penetrating oil in between the two metals.
If you can get a really good clamp in a vice you might be able to wiggle/tap it off. A couple applications of heat may be required.
Hopefully some one can chime in on how hot you can take the aluminum to?
I guess all I’m really adding is how important the clamping will be.
Best of luck to you!
On a side note, my kidd barreled dlask is a tack driver. But that kidd barrel fitting is a chore better suited for the pro’s. Especially on a higher spec dlask receiver.
I put a kidd barrel in a dlask receiver. Such a crazy tight fit. Did the heated receiver/ cold barrel thing. About 1/4” in I realized it was not coming out even if I had too.
I guess what worked for me to index the barrel might be useful to you to get it out.
I made some wood barrel clamps for my vice by drilling a 7/8” hole in a piece of wood then ripping it in half. it was the only way I could get enough grip on the barrel to tap the receiver to the proper location.
Maybe try freezing the barrel and receiver, pull out, then hover the receiver over the burner on your stove as the alum should expand more than the steel. Try putting some penetrating oil in between the two metals.
If you can get a really good clamp in a vice you might be able to wiggle/tap it off. A couple applications of heat may be required.
Hopefully some one can chime in on how hot you can take the aluminum to?
I guess all I’m really adding is how important the clamping will be.
Best of luck to you!
On a side note, my kidd barreled dlask is a tack driver. But that kidd barrel fitting is a chore better suited for the pro’s. Especially on a higher spec dlask receiver.
Sakoman .308
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Nova Scotia
I would be tempted to heat the receiver with a heat gun.
manicmechanic
CGN Regular
Sent you a pm
Tom
Tom
Sakoman .308
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Nova Scotia
That sir, is a great question.
I’m kind of thinking maybe he bought the parts to install himself and perhaps got halfway through the process before the barrel wouldn’t go any further in or the extractor slot wasn’t lined up properly.
Have you ever wanted a hole in the rear of the receiver for barrel cleaning? This might be the time to look into that feature and use the hole to push the barrel out as well.
I would also check out one of the Porta-Power hydraulic sets and see if there was a set up available that would fit in your receiver.
I would also check out one of the Porta-Power hydraulic sets and see if there was a set up available that would fit in your receiver.
wayupnorth
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Northern Alberta
couple years back i got a barrel stuck while trying to put it in.
that was NOT fun!
i even sent it off to a gunsmith / machinist shop and they could not get it out.
was told the metal had fused together.
long story short finally got it out but it took a dead blow mini sledge and a bunch of wood blocks and dowels and the barrel which was a soft aluminum got messed up.
at the end of the day i now have no issues sending my barrels and receivers to a gunsmith if they are too tight for me to put together.
sometimes you just need a professional to turn a bit of the barrel shank off.
that was NOT fun!
i even sent it off to a gunsmith / machinist shop and they could not get it out.
was told the metal had fused together.
long story short finally got it out but it took a dead blow mini sledge and a bunch of wood blocks and dowels and the barrel which was a soft aluminum got messed up.
at the end of the day i now have no issues sending my barrels and receivers to a gunsmith if they are too tight for me to put together.
sometimes you just need a professional to turn a bit of the barrel shank off.
Sorry to hear about your stuck barrel. Liquid nitrogen would work but it is not something you want to do yourselves. Basicaly you cool down the "pin" (barrel) with the liquid nitrogen to shrink it. Aircraft mechanics use this method to remove worn pins or bushings out of aluminum structures. Works like a charm...
Kody
Kody
wayupnorth
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Northern Alberta
wood dowel and dead blow hammer vs aluminum barrel
I had a problem putting in my tac-sol xring where it acctually scrapped the metal and buggered it up. The painted finish was damaged but a good clean/polish made it easier afterwards. Also i clean it more regularly just to make sure it doesnt stick anymore.
When I put my KIDD in my Dlask, I made timing alignment marks so I knew it was going in straight. Based on the fit, even with anti-seize they are mated forever. If I had to try and break them apart, I think the best bet would be to hold the barrel in a pipe vise, put wood inside and outside the receiver, and try to gently rotate it and move it off the barrel with hammer taps.
There's tight, and then there's TIGHT. The KIDD/Dlask combo, without slight honing of the receiver hole or turning down the barrel shank, is basically forcing the aluminum receiver to deform slightly as the steel shank is forced into it. I froze the barrel/heated the receiver, and it still took some serious hammer blows to drive the two together (to the point where I was afraid the receiver might split). In theory, this fit makes the V-block all but redundant, but makes barrel removal tedious, to say the least.
Good advice, IMO. The aluminum of the receiver will expand more (and more quickly) than the steel of the barrel. I would skip the freezer, and go straight to heat on the receiver/barrel junction, and then tap tap tap.
