I have replaced the hammer and sear in my 10/22 with a Power Custom set that included new springs and shims for both the hammer and sear. I still find the trigger has too much movement prior to getting to the point where it is actually breaking the sear engagement. What should be my next step if I want to eliminate this? 2ndly, I notice the trigger assembly housing has lateral play within the receiver. Should I shim to eliminate this?
10/22 trigger slack
- Thread starter Grizzlypeg
- Start date
there's a good chance that the pins are sloppy in the trigger group. a drill bit and some drill stock of the appropraite size may help remedy this.
the lateral play from the trigger group to the reciever is likely nothing to worry about, shim it if it really bothers you, or look into the reiever pin kit from tony kid of kid innovative design.
the lateral play from the trigger group to the reciever is likely nothing to worry about, shim it if it really bothers you, or look into the reiever pin kit from tony kid of kid innovative design.
No, I used a hammer and sear from PC that are supposedly hand fitted to each other. This was a lazy question for me to ask, what I really need to do is remove the trigger group again and carefully observe what is moving as I take up the slack. I suspect something has play in it.
Nope...it's the space between the sear & disconnector that I'm talking about.
That's probably what's giving you the creep in your trigger IMO.
Thanks, I've seen pictures of that simple modification. On to the next stage of improvements then.
I don't like the feel of the trigger return plunger either. It feels rough as its compressed by the trigger. Now if I can get the movement reduced, that should be of less importanance, but its still going to be a factor.
Did you do anything to reduce the aftertravel of the trigger?
Once you tighten up your internal trigger group with either shims, pins or the above, your trigger will sit back more on your plunger and it'll be a quick, smooth pull before engagement.
I use mostly V.Q. target triggers in my builds. You can adjust them to reduce/eliminate after travel.
Good luck!
elimsprint
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Kelowna, BC
Get rid of the plunger totally by doing the torsion spring mod from rimfirecentral. Unbelievable difference. You then tap out the plunger hole for the overtravel screw. For complete reliability you always set for a tiny bit of overtravel. I'll leave the creep problem alone as I feel the only way to fix it is a completely adjustable trigger group made from your stock parts, but thats just my opinion.
Kim
You have your stock set lying around now so if you want to try the ultimate DIY for your 10/22 PM me your email and I'll send you the info on doing it that I got from RFC. You'll have to search the torsion spring there for yourself but it's easy to find.
Kim
You have your stock set lying around now so if you want to try the ultimate DIY for your 10/22 PM me your email and I'll send you the info on doing it that I got from RFC. You'll have to search the torsion spring there for yourself but it's easy to find.
Anyone have any suggestions about what to do about getting stovepiping? I pull the trigger, hear the click of the hammer drop, but no bang. Then I realize the bolt isn't closed because a spend casing is sitting in between the bolt and receiver. Is this an ammo issue? Extractor?
elimsprint
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Kelowna, BC
Also dirty gun. Have you taken the bolt and action rod and spring apart lately and cleaned them?
Gun is sparkly clean. Lightly lubed with G96. I tried the original rotary mag and still have problems. Seems to me I had the best luck with the BC hot lips mag and less success with the steel lips. Not that its a jam o matic or anything like that. But the odd stovepipe is still annoying. I've only shot AE solid 40's out of the gun. They are generally, pretty darn accurate at 50-100 yards so I like them. I've put around 2000 through this new barrel so far.
elimsprint
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Kelowna, BC
I have mixed opinions about the need for aftermarket extractors. The stock ones work really well if you clean them up, polish them and the plunger a little and slightly increase the hook while sharpening the edge. I use brake clean and compressed air to clean my bolts. Remember that the extractor doesn't pull the case from the chamber, it is only there to contol the case till it hits the ejector pin and if it is not holding securely the case can get launched off line a bit and end up just rattling around in the ejection port and causing stovepipes. A little hint, disassemble and assemble the bolt with your hands and the bolt in a large plastic bag so when the plunger spring launches itself and it will, it is easy to find
I also find that re-radiusing the back of the bolt and polishing the face of the hammer makes for a much smoother action which directly affects extraction and ejection of a spent round.
Kim
I also find that re-radiusing the back of the bolt and polishing the face of the hammer makes for a much smoother action which directly affects extraction and ejection of a spent round.Kim
A lot of gunk builds up on the bolt face especially under the extractor hook, sometimes requires some picking at to get it off.
I also think the alignment of the moon affects extraction too, cause some days everything is fine and others everything is annoying even with the exact same ammo.
I also think the alignment of the moon affects extraction too, cause some days everything is fine and others everything is annoying even with the exact same ammo.
you need to get an adjustable moon, they make those for 10/22s, right?
Good one - now i'm hoping they do as my stock, almost new(500 rds) 10/22 does the same thing with every brand of ammo I've tried
