100 year old semi auto pistol. to crimp or not to crimp?

garybusey

garybusey

Regular
Rating - 100%
3   0   0
Location
vancouver, bc
so I began loading .38 super brass with 9mm 115gr jacketed round nose to .38 auto specs to shoot in my 1903 colt pocket hammer .38 acp/auto. my only question is if I should be putting a tapered crimp on these or not. I'm using the Lee .38 auto / .38 super. 3 die set that has the crimper built into the bullet seating die. I have yet to fire my starting loads through the pistol. I'm also looking to keep charges at starting loads to reduce wear on the pistol and I'm not sure if a slight tapered crimp will increase the pressure on a regular 9mm 115gr round nose bullet. Is a tapered crimp necessary? or should the older semi automatic pistol accept them ok uncrimped?
 
Un-crimped you run the risk that the bullets could be pushed to a deeper than intended seating depth. That would defiantly result in higher than planned pressure.
 
That's called 'bullet set back' - very unwelcome...

Round should be able to stay in its 'original state'/OAL for at least 10 chamberings.
If bullet goes into case, you risk pulling trigger on a 'pipe bomb'.
 
CeeZer said:
That's called 'bullet set back' - very unwelcome...

Round should be able to stay in its 'original state'/OAL for at least 10 chamberings.
If bullet goes into case, you risk pulling trigger on a 'pipe bomb'.
Click to expand...
so how do I test if it can stay in its original state? cycle them through the pistol multiple times by pulling the slide back then caliper them and see if the oal has decreased?
 
garybusey said:
so how do I test if it can stay in its original state? cycle them through the pistol multiple times by pulling the slide back then caliper them and see if the oal has decreased?
Click to expand...
Measure them before, then cycle a few times and measure again. But do this with a round that contains no primer or powder charge
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom