I've also heard you can make the cap compound from match heads and the material in the igniting strip on normal match packages, so you just scrape the igniting strip, break up some match heads and mix the two materials together very well with water and you put drops of the slurry into the homemade caps.
#11 Percussion Cap Maker
- Thread starter maple leaf
- Start date
I've also heard you can make the cap compound from match heads and the material in the igniting strip on normal match packages, so you just scrape the igniting strip, break up some match heads and mix the two materials together very well with water and you put drops of the slurry into the homemade caps.
Wasn't a problem, got it today ( Thanks, Maple Leaf for posting this!!!!) 9 straight days after I ordered it. Looks really like Dennis Schulz ( Sharpshooter LLC ) has his $hit together. Thumbs up.And here the Pic...Note it was claimed as priming compound right on the envelope, so obviously that is not an import issue.
CG
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maple leaf
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- SW Ontario
Glad the post helped. Let us all know how it goes making and using them.
Will do. Give me 2 weeks, because I have to fill a moose ticket,work early shifts and memorize some masonic stuff right now...But I'll post results with step by step pictures and the outcome of course.
CG
NorthCoastBigBore
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Northwest BC (Rural) 103-I-##
Thanks for the update on this CoachGun, guess I better warm up the Visa...
- Location
- Behind a large rock
Tagged.
- Location
- Kawartha Lakes
Yes.....keep us posted.
So here we go...the manual asks for a plastic hammer or rubber mallet, and I cut a beer can up, not too efficient as you can see.They recommend 3/4" strips,which i did here, but 5/8 (16mm) will work just fine if you need to get more out of your can.I made 3 strips: one for as intended and two others for double layer "magnum" primers,since the regulars could be blown to bits as jjort in post 28 already mentioned.
And here the cap maker in action...absolutely no hammer needed, a tap with the flat hand does it.
Next up, the double walled caps...still without using a hammer.
And done...regular caps to the right and doubles to the left...with some CCI #11 to compare.
Next is a close up of the caps, the home made seem to be a bit larger than the factory CCI #11s but the rippling makes up for that...of course they look crude,but with those sharp edges,they won't fall of your fingers...sticky as thistles. Since I have to squeeze the CCIs slightly to stay on the nipple,I checked that too: the regular caps are way softer than the copper factory ones.The double layered on the other hand are stiffer than factory...we'll see later what's best.
And here the components...they come with the little double scoop in small and large, you're supposed to take 2 large scoops out of the big white bag and 1 big scoop out of the black bag,then 1 small scoop from the little white and yellow bag each. Not included, you need Rubbing alcohol or aceton (both work),any kind of wood that fits into the caps ( back side of a match if nothing else) a small plastic container to mix the components and something to dispense the alcohol droplet wise...Avoid metal!
And of course safety glasses should be used.
And that's what it looks like before mixing the components...the scoop can be used to mix it. Doesn't look like much,but this are 21 caps.
And since I'm on my picture limit...next post.
And here the cap maker in action...absolutely no hammer needed, a tap with the flat hand does it.
Next up, the double walled caps...still without using a hammer.
And done...regular caps to the right and doubles to the left...with some CCI #11 to compare.
Next is a close up of the caps, the home made seem to be a bit larger than the factory CCI #11s but the rippling makes up for that...of course they look crude,but with those sharp edges,they won't fall of your fingers...sticky as thistles. Since I have to squeeze the CCIs slightly to stay on the nipple,I checked that too: the regular caps are way softer than the copper factory ones.The double layered on the other hand are stiffer than factory...we'll see later what's best.
And here the components...they come with the little double scoop in small and large, you're supposed to take 2 large scoops out of the big white bag and 1 big scoop out of the black bag,then 1 small scoop from the little white and yellow bag each. Not included, you need Rubbing alcohol or aceton (both work),any kind of wood that fits into the caps ( back side of a match if nothing else) a small plastic container to mix the components and something to dispense the alcohol droplet wise...Avoid metal!
And of course safety glasses should be used.
And that's what it looks like before mixing the components...the scoop can be used to mix it. Doesn't look like much,but this are 21 caps.
And since I'm on my picture limit...next post.
Attachments
Once mixed to the stage of even gray as seen here, you can start pouring the powder into the caps. They say fill it to a third,but a quarter is enough...you still want to get the thing on the nipple,right? Now that is the hardest part of all , you can't have sausage fingers or coffee shake...and if you'd been here while i tried to fill the caps with the little dipper,you would have learned some new words,I'm sure.
And after getting the powder mix in,the 1 drop of alcohol is applied. Wait about 5 minutes, there should be no more fluid visible, but still be moist...that's when you need your wooden dowel to press the ignition mix into the cap
And that is a close up how they look when done...as you can see 1/4 full is plenty. 7 double layered on top, regulars on bottom, still crude but as long as they work?!
Now they are supposed to dry and bond for 24 hrs.
Tomorrow, I'm going to test 6 doubles and 12 regular caps in my 1860 Army and the remaining double and two regulars in my Kentucky ( reason is, she's got a slight nipple/hammer surface angle mismatch and does not work with every cap)
Cheers,
CG
And after getting the powder mix in,the 1 drop of alcohol is applied. Wait about 5 minutes, there should be no more fluid visible, but still be moist...that's when you need your wooden dowel to press the ignition mix into the cap
And that is a close up how they look when done...as you can see 1/4 full is plenty. 7 double layered on top, regulars on bottom, still crude but as long as they work?!
Now they are supposed to dry and bond for 24 hrs.
Tomorrow, I'm going to test 6 doubles and 12 regular caps in my 1860 Army and the remaining double and two regulars in my Kentucky ( reason is, she's got a slight nipple/hammer surface angle mismatch and does not work with every cap)
Cheers,
CG
Attachments
Final results will be coming tonight. The 1860 is a Pietta ( made in Italy) from the late 90's.
CG
Well...I can. If my Super uber nutz status would me allow to direct upload video from my hard drive...fine. But since not, I'm not going to open a farcebook, youdumbe or google account just to prove my statements, I actually have a life...
So,all you guys have a choice...Believe that my conclusions about my find outs are right, or ...get the equipment and find out for yourself, I'd strongly encourage that.
CG
