12 Ga Challenger loading data

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IMR4320

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Hey guys,
I could get a lot of Challenger hulls from my gun club literally for free but this brand being Canadian manufacturer, I cannot find any reloading data anywhere. Does anyone know any actual and safe loading specifications for powder, wad, buck shot, slug, etc ? The only specific I know about these hulls, is they appear to be straight wall, plastic base wad and 6-fold crimp, that's it.
Thanks for any info.
Cheers
 
If I may suggest something I would say instead of "free" Challenger a better choice would be 50$/1000 AA hulls. Any range has them by the truckload. AA reload great and loading data is available on any powder manufacturer website. Even if you can reload them only twice and you'll still be better than the Challenger choice. Just sayin.
 
Hi.

I think that they are European hulls with straight walls. Using cheddite primer, I put a clay buster federal s3 type wad with 1 1/8 of 7.5s over 17.5 grains of 700x or clay dot.

My impression is there is lots of space in the hull so go bulky to avoid have the crimp go in.

Factory loads look like a 12s0 wad as the led is just peaking above the petals.

I don't reuse them too often as they are easy to find but if you watch for any tears in the plastic after you fire them. Any tears means they are done.
 
I won't give my load data but have had my best results with Federal S series wads giving the least powder creep. Tried CB AA style for straight walled hull CB6100-12 abit more powder creep resulting in inconsistent velocities. You need to adjust your loader to get great six point crimps. I load them only once and done.
Any straight wall hull euro trash load data will work if you follow the recipe and have the right stack height, (hull, powder, wad and pressure, shot, crimp start, crimp, and Finish crimp)
Have fun and fill some time loading.
Jan
 
Without derailing too much, does anyone have a reference for what chamber pressure and velocity for the Challenger Light Target factory loads are? Emailed the company two weeks ago with no response.

There are old style AA hulls on the EE for $.20 each. Are they that much more desirable than nickel/each hulls?
 
I did here somewhere they are Cheddite but couldn't track the source anymore so I didn't feel like guessing while having about 10,000 psi in my chamber but I'll look into Cheddite data. Now, do Cheddites have slightly different primer & pocket diameter ? Oh, and I have a load of AA's but I stumbled over all of these Challengers and got curious.
 
No - The Cheddites currently available are of standard spec. The issue you're facing is the two piece hull, vs the one piece AA hull. The risk of a hull separation is much greater. For this reason, folks will only reload Cheddite hulls once, as opposed to ~ 7 times for the AA's. Now you know why theres lots of Challenger hulls laying around shooting clubs...
 
This is actually good info, because even if I would be able to reload them only once, it's still a good deal, because, well, there are buckets of them on our range and if they don't move into my place, they go straight into the dumpster.
Cheers
 
I like challenger hulls. A little more volume than gold medal hulls.
I use gold medal data and some are on my 4th reload of slug loads. They hold up fine, I have a few Remington hulls that quit after 4 reloads.
Many people put the euro hulls down, they say they are trash.
I personally have found them to load perfectly fine for buck and slugs.
Just my opinion
 
I called them directly and they confirmed their hulls are made by Cheddite. I have often used Cheddite hulls for reloading 12,16 and 20 ga. I have never once had a hull separation. Those who say use Win AA are living in the past, AA hulls are not one piece any more. The crimp is usually the weak point in a cheddite, crimps may crack lengthwise after two or more reloads. Free hulls = good value in my opinion!
 
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