12 gauge 3.5 inch reloading

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the_blacksmith

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I’m looking for options for reloading 3.5” 12 gauge. I’ve done lots of rifle/pistol loading, but I’m completely green loading shotshells. Is there a low volume/low price option to load 3.5” shells? I’d be more than happy to load them on my single stage press if that’s possible. I want to make hunting loads, so making 150-200 shells a year would be my pace. Any suggestions for getting into a low cost option for this?
 
I load 2 3/4 and 3” for both buckshot and slugs so if that’s sort of what you are interested in, I suggest buying new primed hulls, then roll crimping. 3 1/2 needs
same equipment, just a roll crimping attachment for a drill press or hand held. Then you just need wads, powder, overshot cards, lead (whatever type, shot or slugs). I use published loads like Lyman’s shotshell reloading manual.
I do the press thing as well with a few different presses but you can do it very simply without much gear.
 
Sure, check out TATV Canada, they sell a bunch of shot shell stuff. I have their drill press crimper $60, works fantastic. I see they also have one that goes in a press but it’s more money.
Of the 3 crimpers I’ve had, it’s the best unless you have access to buying in the US, they have some nice ones down there but the TATV is damn good.
 
Awesome! Thanks for sharing. That does indeed look like just the ticket. My plan is to load 3.5” magnum waterfowl loads. My preference is BB or BBB for geese; if I shoot 30 in a hunt that’s a lot of missing and a sore shoulder, and if I can get out three times a year I’m happy. I’m guessing from the little video of that crimper that I’ll also need to trim the shells a good deal and use an overshot card? That crimper won’t work to put a factory style crimp back in the shells it looks like to me; is that the case?
 
Well, if you can find new primed 3.5 inch hulls then you can just roll crimp directly over a variety of cards or ones you make yourself. Fold crimp requires a specific press but I roll crimp #4 buck which is reasonably small pellets so I don’t see why bb’s wouldn’t work.
I reuse my hulls if they aren’t beat up too much and yes, I trim them some, but doesn’t have to be perfect to use the roll crimper. Trick would be repriming spent hulls without the press but I’m sure it could be done manually.

Pressure is lower with a roll crimp so normal load data for folded crimps will work fine.

Check out Sporteque for new Hulls and wads, as well as Bilozir. They both buy from Ballistic Products in the US and Ballistic Products is the mother lode for shotgun stuff. It’s interesting just to peruse their site.

Good luck, hope all is well in FSJ, been there many times as I used to work for both Canfor, and later, BC Hydro.
 
Cheaper at Sporteque........... primed Cheditte hulls in 12 ga 3 1/2" available. Are you loading steel/ non-toxic as you mentioned waterfowl? BPI has reloading books with data as well. Finding primers and the correct powder will be the challenging part.
 
the_blacksmith said:
I’m looking for options for reloading 3.5” 12 gauge. I’ve done lots of rifle/pistol loading, but I’m completely green loading shotshells. Is there a low volume/low price option to load 3.5” shells? I’d be more than happy to load them on my single stage press if that’s possible. I want to make hunting loads, so making 150-200 shells a year would be my pace. Any suggestions for getting into a low cost option for this?
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Buy a Mec steel master for 3 1/2 12ga and be done with it
Rest is mickey mouse especially if you do any volume and that 200 will be double that once you start reloading. It just happens. Been there
I use all RSI data but BP has some good stuff also and STEEL powder ONLY
I am set up to do 10ga and 3" and 3 1/2 12ga steel all separate presses
Cheers
 
Yeah, I plan to load steel. The math doesn’t seem to make much sense to me for loading skeet shells; I haven’t bought target loads in ages (I have a little laid by, as it happens…) but the cost of components vs cost of shells seemed to me to be too close to make a case to roll my own. Magnum steel loads, on the other hand are quite expensive and the component costs are not nearly enough to justify the price.
 
How are you going to get shells when the stores don't have them if you think they're expensive now? shotgun components are available but primers are another story.
 
mbogo3 said:
How are you going to get shells when the stores don't have them if you think they're expensive now? shotgun components are available but primers are another story.
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I’ve had plans to get started on this for years…. So naturally I bought all the components like an idiot and not the machines and didn’t know how to do it. Although now I’ve been reloading for about 10 years for rifles I think I can work out the basics between YouTube, forums and doing ‘dry’ runs by loading shells with a spent primer that I take apart to get the process down without making live ammo. Although, buying a ton of components ages ago turns out to have been foresight accidentally.
 
The machines are easier to find than the components so at least you're 3/4 of the way there. If you want to have a cardiac price some Bismuth.
 
the_blacksmith said:
I’ve had plans to get started on this for years…. So naturally I bought all the components like an idiot and not the machines and didn’t know how to do it. Although now I’ve been reloading for about 10 years for rifles I think I can work out the basics between YouTube, forums and doing ‘dry’ runs by loading shells with a spent primer that I take apart to get the process down without making live ammo. Although, buying a ton of components ages ago turns out to have been foresight accidentally.
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Smart man however. It is not about cost it is about the high quality rounds and patterns you can produce vs factory IMHO
 
mbogo3 said:
The machines are easier to find than the components so at least you're 3/4 of the way there. If you want to have a cardiac price some Bismuth.
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I have seen it at gun shows. Gulp….. a little too rich for my blood. Besides, even shooting factory steel with a high quality extended choke I’ve been dropping geese with BBB steel waaaaaay past what old school lead shot in old 3” high brass would do. Steel doesn’t really seem like a handicap so much anymore, if you can get 1 5/8oz magnums. Although they recoil like hell. I hunt with an SX3, so it has pretty good recoil mitigation but even then a box of shells on a hunt leaves a little dark shadow on my shoulder most times.
 
I helped my father handloading and roll crimping by hand when I was a kid. Tedious work.
If you are regularly hunting waterfowl, I would follow 3macs1 advice. Buy a steel master and be done with it. You might also want to invest in a universal charger bar.
Otherwise factory ammo might be an alternative.

Any reason for 3.5" loads? They might be good for pass by geese, but that's it. They don't really offer any real advantage in most of over decoys hunts, especially if you reload. If you need load recipes let me know.
 
the_blacksmith said:
I have seen it at gun shows. Gulp….. a little too rich for my blood. Besides, even shooting factory steel with a high quality extended choke I’ve been dropping geese with BBB steel waaaaaay past what old school lead shot in old 3” high brass would do. Steel doesn’t really seem like a handicap so much anymore, if you can get 1 5/8oz magnums. Although they recoil like hell. I hunt with an SX3, so it has pretty good recoil mitigation but even then a box of shells on a hunt leaves a little dark shadow on my shoulder most times.
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No way. You must be a better shot now maybe. The old lead is still way ahead any steel factory. In fact not even close. Been reloading shotgun for over 50 years all gauges. Nothing I have seen in steel is like an old imperial or federal copper plated buffer round for range
Cheers
 
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the_blacksmith said:
I haven’t gotten anything. This summer has been a blur for me (work is busy) so I haven’t bought anything yet
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Understand. My vote is still for a steel master. Buy once and be done for life IMHO
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