12 gauge vs 10 gauge

Spear

Member
EE Expired
Rating - 100%
4   0   0
I am thinking of getting a 10 gauge shot gun for waterfowl. Does a 10 gauge have more reach than a 12 gauge? Is my killing distance greater? Assuming proper aim would I kill more ducks and geese? Does a 10 gauge have more power or just more pellets? I think you get my drift.
 
Back when lead shot was legal for waterfowl, the 10 gauge had a real advantage in performance, it held more of the heavier sizes which retained energy for longer shots. Now that we have steel shot and all shots need to be much closer, I see no real advantage to the 10 gauge(using steel shot). Shots still need to be close and patterns are pretty tight at those ranges and 10 gauge is much more expensive.
 
Reach is a function of speed and shot size, and pattern is a function of load and choke effectiveness. When you compare 10 gauge loads to 3½ inch 12 gauge loads, velocities and shot loads are more or less the same. therefore, reach and pattern should be similar. In spite of the 10 gauge's theoritically greater potential payload, it is limited by a lower SAAMI MAP.
 
Reach is a function of speed and shot size, and pattern is a function of load and choke effectiveness. When you compare 10 gauge loads to 3½ inch 12 gauge loads, velocities and shot loads are more or less the same. therefore, reach and pattern should be similar. In spite of the 10 gauge's theoritically greater potential payload, it is limited by a lower SAAMI MAP.

I pretty much agree except possibly with the idea that the patterns should be similar. I think a shorter shot column will pattern better.

In the goose blind, I have a 10 and the 3 others I normally hunt with have 3.5" 12 gauges. 2 use steel, one has started using the Remington Wingmaster HD loads.

My 10 stands head and shoulders above the others with steel in both range and killing power. I assume this may have to do with pattern density. The difference between the 10 with steel and the 3.5 12ga with the Wingmaster ammo is small. Although I still seemed to be doing a bit better than he was. It's too soon to tell.

We've been hunting together for a while now so we know how each of us shoot. When I got the 10 the difference was very noticeable: 2 triples and several doubles on the first day out with it. I don't think anybody else even got a double.

This is just my take on this. I know the numbers suggest that there should be no difference between the big 12 and a 10, but my experience suggests otherwise. I can't comment on cost as I load my own.

I've also heard it said that because the 3.5 12 operates at such high pressure, some guns are wearing fast and/or having reliablility problems. I haven't seen this myself though.

I remommend the 10, it's great for ducks too, just use the proper load.
 
I pretty much agree except possibly with the idea that the patterns should be similar. I think a shorter shot column will pattern better.

In the goose blind, I have a 10 and the 3 others I normally hunt with have 3.5" 12 gauges. 2 use steel, one has started using the Remington Wingmaster HD loads.

My 10 stands head and shoulders above the others with steel in both range and killing power. I assume this may have to do with pattern density. The difference between the 10 with steel and the 3.5 12ga with the Wingmaster ammo is small. Although I still seemed to be doing a bit better than he was. It's too soon to tell.

We've been hunting together for a while now so we know how each of us shoot. When I got the 10 the difference was very noticeable: 2 triples and several doubles on the first day out with it. I don't think anybody else even got a double.

This is just my take on this. I know the numbers suggest that there should be no difference between the big 12 and a 10, but my experience suggests otherwise. I can't comment on cost as I load my own.

I've also heard it said that because the 3.5 12 operates at such high pressure, some guns are wearing fast and/or having reliablility problems. I haven't seen this myself though.

I remommend the 10, it's great for ducks too, just use the proper load.

Agree somewhat. I'm normally on the same page with BEN but not this time. There is nothing delivers like a 10ga even with steel shot.I have been reloading all my own steel since a year after it 1st became law and with my duplex reloads around 1700 and the right choke I kill almost like I did with lead.
In fact this year for the 1st time I started using the 12ga 3 1/2 again for just duck hunting since the 10 was just tearing them apart over decoys.
No 12 ga 3 1/2 will ever pattern as nice as a 10ga.
I have two browning gold, a BPS and a rem sp-10 in 10ga and two 3 1/2 browning gold 12ga 3 1/2, plus my maxus,etc and have done a ton of testing since the mid 90's with different chokes , guns and both factory and RSI reloads. The 10ga gold with a briley IM diana choke will kill 65 -70 yards if I want to try no problem and has when I hunted snow geese out west.
Like I said it can be real hard on ducks under 35 yards if you can hit them. Ammo unless you reload is more expensive and hard to find at least down this way.
Some reading from BP. Try a 10ga once like they say and I know you will buy one if you are a goose hunter and don't mind the weight and shooting last in the blind
http://www.ballisticproducts.com/bpi/articleindex/articles/312inch1/GA1235K1.html
 
Last edited:
What length of shells are you using in the 10 gauge. Do they come in 3 1/2 inch shells?

The old old guns had short ones but all modern 10ga made for steel is 3 1/2. I reload is 3 1/2 fereral and remington hulls. My brownings hate the winchesters.
I would try to shoot one prior to buying. They are not for everybody. Big heavy guns which I don't mind but many of my friends that tried mine had a hardtime getting comfortable with the barrel length and weight. No worry about stopping your swing that is for sure
 
Same here.


I only have one 10ga. It's a Browning Gold. I suddenly feel like I need more...

I think that is because Ben and I are old farts and still do stuff old school. He has a lot of knowledge to share for sure. Only one 10ga GOLD how do you get along.:D I bought one new when they came out must be in 93 or so and had a sp-10 for a backup. I just got the second gold in the past few months from a member. But I will keep them all since they are both the original old steel receivers and internal superx1 design:D I have 1000's of rounds through my 1st one and never an issue other than it will pull the brass right off winchester shells.
Never liked them since day one. I learned the hard way to take two guns when I go hunting out of province.
 
I think that is because Ben and I are old farts and still do stuff old school. Only one 10ga GOLD how do you get along.:D I bought one new when they came out must be in 93 or so and had a sp-10 for a backup. I just got the second gold in the past few months from a member. But I will keep them all since they are both the original old steel receivers and internal superx1 design:D I have 1000's of rounds through my 1st one and never an issue other than it will pull the brass right off winchester shells.
Never liked them since day one.

I'm working on the 'Old Fart' part but I'm not quite there yet.

Yes, extraction and ejection are both...agressive to say the least. Mine has run 100 percent so far but I estimate only 2 or 300 rounds fired to date.

If you're into sharing load info please PM me. I've not had much chance to experiment so far. The duplex load you mentioned caught my interest.

Thanks.
 
I'm working on the 'Old Fart' part but I'm not quite there yet.

Yes, extraction and ejection are both...agressive to say the least. Mine has run 100 percent so far but I estimate only 2 or 300 rounds fired to date.

If you're into sharing load info please PM me. I've not had much chance to experiment so far. The duplex load you mentioned caught my interest.

Thanks.

Will do later this week if that is Ok.:)
 
I don't find the need to use 3-1/2" shells in a 12 gauge to hunt waterfowl, but if I thought that the 3-1/2" shells were going to be a huge advantage, I would go with a 10 gauge instead. I am also a believer that the shorter shot column can only help with obtaining better patterns.
 
I don't find the need to use 3-1/2" shells in a 12 gauge to hunt waterfowl, but if I thought that the 3-1/2" shells were going to be a huge advantage, I would go with a 10 gauge instead. I am also a believer that the shorter shot column can only help with obtaining better patterns.

I agree with Mr.Jumper. I'd switch to a 10 to throw better patterns.

I always wanted to source some smallish steel and load up a 10 for ducks.
 
Back when lead shot was legal for waterfowl, the 10 gauge had a real advantage in performance, it held more of the heavier sizes which retained energy for longer shots. Now that we have steel shot and all shots need to be much closer, I see no real advantage to the 10 gauge(using steel shot).

Agreed 110%!!! ben is bang on! It's why I run with a 3.5 inch chambered 12 gauge!

Reach is a function of speed and shot size, and pattern is a function of load and choke effectiveness. When you compare 10 gauge loads to 3½ inch 12 gauge loads, velocities and shot loads are more or less the same. therefore, reach and pattern should be similar. In spite of the 10 gauge's theoritically greater potential payload, it is limited by a lower SAAMI MAP.

Again, bang on! pacobillie has it!!!

My 10 stands head and shoulders above the others with steel in both range and killing power. I assume this may have to do with pattern density.

I'm gonna take a guess that you're just a better shooter than your buddies & you drop birds more effectively with the 10 ga as a result... (A compliment, even though I don't agree with your saying the 10 ga is a better waterfowl gun...) ;)

I'll finish by saying what I have been saying for the last little while... I used to use a 3 inch shell with #4 steel going 1550 fps, dropped ducks like nobody's business... Switched to a 3 inch shell with #2 steel going 1550 fps for geese...

Started getting into more & more geese, so 'being prepared' for a mix of geese & ducks soon saw me going to a 3.5 inch shell loaded with #2 steel & going 1550 fps. This allowed me to be ready for ducks or geese & has become my go to shell for waterfowl in any situation.

A 12 ga with a 3.5 inch chamber is my personal choice for a waterfowl shotgun!!! Not to mention IT IS CHEAPER to shoot the 12 ga...

Cheers
Jay
 
Agreed 110%!!! ben is bang on! It's why I run with a 3.5 inch chambered 12 gauge!



Again, bang on! pacobillie has it!!!



I'm gonna take a guess that you're just a better shooter than your buddies & you drop birds more effectively with the 10 ga as a result... (A compliment, even though I don't agree with your saying the 10 ga is a better waterfowl gun...) ;)

I'll finish by saying what I have been saying for the last little while... I used to use a 3 inch shell with #4 steel going 1550 fps, dropped ducks like nobody's business... Switched to a 3 inch shell with #2 steel going 1550 fps for geese...

Started getting into more & more geese, so 'being prepared' for a mix of geese & ducks soon saw me going to a 3.5 inch shell loaded with #2 steel & going 1550 fps. This allowed me to be ready for ducks or geese & has become my go to shell for waterfowl in any situation.

Shooting ability is the single most important factor. Shot size hardly matters within reason, however everything you can do to maximize the shootability of your gun is important. Most people shoot 10's better because they are heavier and help smooth out lead and also kick a bit less with similar loads compared to a 3 1/2 12 in a standard barrel.
My advice would be to pick up a 12 and a similar 10 so you can make the most of the 10 by practicing with the 12.
 
To me it is very simple. Anyone that cannot see the advantage of a 10ga over any 12ga don't care of it is 3" or 3 1/2" has never used one for pass shooting or shared a blind with a guy that knows how to shoot one.
One morning pass shooting over 40 yards, chasing snow geese or sea ducks and I would have you using your 12ga for a boat paddle on the way home and out buying a 10ga. That is what happened to me over 20 years ago and I have never looked back.
Back then .I went hunting with two different outfitters in PEI and both guides were shooting sp-10's and ithaca's. The next year I had my 1st 10ga..
If you are hunting over decoys and under 40 yards yes you can do a lot of damage with the 10 and the 12 is a better selection to save some meat at least for me.
Buy hey to each their own use what ever works for the hunting you do.
 
Last edited:
To me it is very simple. Anyone that cannot see the advantage of a 10ga over any 12ga don't care of it is 3" or 3 1/2" has never used one for pass shooting or shared a blind with a guy that knows how to shoot one.
One morning pass shooting over 40 yards, chasing snow geese or sea ducks and I would have you using your 12ga for a boat paddle on the way home and out buying a 10ga.

Is that an invitation? Always wanted to kill some sea ducks. I'll bring my two favorite 12 ga boat paddles.
 
Is that an invitation? Always wanted to kill some sea ducks. I'll bring my two favorite 12 ga boat paddles.

I might even be able to find some beer for you:D I hate the taste of seaducks but there is a couple of guys I know that eat them so we shoot them from time to time.
Chasing coyotes with no.4 buck this time of year is way more fun with the 10ga.;)
 
I might even be able to find some beer for you:D I hate the taste of seaducks but there is a couple of guys I know that eat them so we shoot them from time to time.
Chasing coyotes with no.4 buck this time of year is way more fun with the 10ga.;)

I have alot of Family in Nova Scotia, I'd happily come drink your beer and harass sea ducks with any gun you'd like.
 
Back
Top Bottom