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the 1/12 rifling is right, and the 180's are right at the edge of the envelope as far as the 308's are concerned- the bullet sits right on top of the powder at factory length settings- as far as the heavy trigger pull is concerned,pull the buttstock ( you'll need a LOONG screwdriver after you get the buttplate off and one of the screws is done up too darned tight- probably by someone who doesn't know 99s- too loose,and the lever flops around like a wet fish, too tight and she's a first class beast to pull- it's just aft of the magazine, and you'll find it by trial and error- and for gods sake , don't undo anything all the way- or it's a trip to the smith and not just anyone can work on 99s- I've got a 99c that I've had since 71 or so and the smith I took it to retuned it with a spring in a small plastic bag- claimed I didn't need it and he didn't know where it goes- well, about 5 minutes with the numrich catalogue and I located where it went- it was a magazine return spring-so much FOR THAT SMITH.
as far as value goes they're all oever the map depending on condition
the guy that removed the rear sight to mount his scope was a dumbass as it's easily done with a set of higher rings or in come cases like mine, the rear sight FOLDS down-THE LADDER just uses a higher ring- had it been me, I would have bought a folder type rear sight, or at least a blank for that dovetail as I don't like empty slots- the rear sight is adjusted with a soft faced hammer or hammer and brass punch from the RIGHT side
 
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yea but if you don't get in there and back that screw off a turn or 2 or have somebody do it 4 u, it causes unbelievable wear on the bolt rear- remember, these things lock up at the rear, and sooner or later that's going to fail at that point- i'd sooner have it as a wall-hanger or sell it than to see someone reefing on that trigger and lever and causing that wear- when that joint goes, the whole rifle goes- you didn't mention what neck of the woods you're in, but if u do maybe one of the lads on here can recommend a GOOD gunsmith-just ask to see his screwdrivers-if he shows you one with a long shank and a slot end, that's your boy- the lee- enfield suffers from a similar problem- if they're all short shanked- he hasn't a clue- and they're not impossible to re- assemble - there's youtubes on them
you've mentioned you've already installed a limb-saver pad - are you aware unless you had the stock cut that you've increased the length of pull when you did that?- I have a slip-on pad on mine, and added about 3/4s of an inch to mine- these things, in spite of what you've been told, are capable of phenomal accuracy at 200 yards plus- provided you do the other bit and find the correct recipe for the ammo- my 99c wears a 4x12x40 scope for a reason- it's also a long barrel version- 20 or 22 inch-and it's my saddle gun-at least put a little grease back there between the bolt and the frame so you don't have metal on metal
 
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I own a 99E carbine in .300 sav. I upgraded the stocks to a set from a 99c series A. Mine defies what it is as far as accuracy goes. Amazing shooter with my handloads. I searched value on mine and a minty one would generally sell for 5 brown ones at most. Mine is a 1971 model that had 14 rds thru it when i got it from a relative in 2007. It is on my never sell list.
 
I used wheel bearing lubricant for grease- the really thick stuff, but marfac and other greases or white lithium work just as good m just have to replace them more often- when she starts to feel heavy or bind , it's time to replace the grease - now as to recipes, I use a 180 spitzer on top of 44 grains of 748 with a Winchester mag primer- this is a darned near max load and I would suggest backing off to 42 and starting your ladder from there- and use a GOOD rest- this may take considerable range time to get it to where u want- I spent many hours at homestead with mine and even now i'm contemplating switching to a 165 as my m14s ( that's right as in more than 1) don't like that bullet- on the other hand that 180 is right at the edge of the envelope for moose, elk and bear- next time u see a trail rider in a brown hat out near sundre, take a close look at his saddle gun- if it's a long barreled scoped 99, well u now know who that is
 
back in the 30's the 99 was known as "the rifleman's rifle" and " bolt action accuracy out of a lever gun" - in those days one actually had to PROVE claims, not just merely make them as is the case today- watch for cracks in the stock just aft of the tang and for forend screws coming loose- this is simple maintaince, but a LOT of gun owners don't take the time to maintain their guns
 
Sigh......

Don't be loosening off any screws in your internals, it can't be good for the gun or the shooter.

Also, there is no screw that has anything to do with how tight or loose your lever cycles.
If your lever does not stay up to the receiver when the rifle is not loaded it is because the lever is not applying enough force to the bolt to hold the lever up in place. We refer to this as the "lever bite". To fix it you must close the arc of the lever by tapping a few times with a rubber or rawhide hammer. It doesn't take a lot and is a trial and error task. Had to do this to a 99C in 284 I owned and it works perfect.

Also the only thing you can do to ease a 99 trigger is to polish the sear where the trigger meshes with it, DO NOT EVER remove metal from the sear to try to ease the trigger pull, it will make the gun unsafe to carry. I've heard of guys taking to much off and the the gun will fire as soon as the lever is closed.
 
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