165 gr accubond for moose
- Thread starter MOBILE 1
- Start date
Use That 165 Accubond with confidence!! The 165 will work just fine. They are pretty tough bullets and I have only recovered one out of 4 animals shot with them, that being a 140 from my 280 Remington on a heavy angle and a larger muley. I have had passthrough as follows. 280 Rem/140AB 250 lb Black Bear, 150 yards slightly quartering away; 8x57/200AB Bull Moose 255 yards, slightly quartering away; 270 Winchester/140AB Whitetail Buck, 175 yards, Broadside. My opinion is that the AB seems to do quite well. Even the one I recovered had just broken the offside hide, but not exited. It weighed 112.5 grains, pretty decent weight retention IMHO. I don't mind admitting I am a Partition lover, but this AB seems to be doing well so far. Regards, Eagleye.
M 1, have you tried the 200 gr Accubond? They are very accurate in my 300 and kill gallon jugs of water with aplomb, all the way out to 300 yards!
Expanded bullets weigh 140 145 gr and look like the ones you see in their advertising.
I will be glad to send you a few to try if you like.
Ted
Expanded bullets weigh 140 145 gr and look like the ones you see in their advertising.
I will be glad to send you a few to try if you like.
Ted
- Location
- Lakes District BC
why dont you give the fushion 168 grainers a shot , we use them in my T3 hunter in 300 and my little brothers T3 lite 300 I can get 5 out of 6 touching @ 200 yards and Foxer has seen there accuracy out of my T3 and the havoc they create on mother natures children
1 question I have is have you tried Barnes X bullets in the T3 yet? we cant get them to shoot worth a crap out of either of ours so gave up and grabbed these new fushions that seem to be made for the T3 I think and dont let anyone BS you 165/168 isnt nuff for a swamp donkey, there just jelous you have a T3 that will shoot them and they dont
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Yes a 165gr Accubond out of a .300WM will kill a moose, but I do not see the point. If these are handloads then you ought to load some 200gr Accubonds (or Nosler Partitions).
I do not understand the logic of loading 150gr or 165gr bullets in a .300 magnum, unless it is for deer or pronghorn. A 180gr or 190gr boattail would be superior for that purpose anyway.
I do not understand the logic of loading 150gr or 165gr bullets in a .300 magnum, unless it is for deer or pronghorn. A 180gr or 190gr boattail would be superior for that purpose anyway.
- Location
- Lakes District BC
how does 15-20 grains make anything superior? I mean if you were jumping to say 275grain 375 lead then yea thats supperior but what is 15 grains? nothing and if your rifle shoots 3x more accuratly with the 165s then USE them, I cant see throwing accuracy out the door for a couple grains of lead now can you?
The extra weight increases sectional density and improves long range ballistics; 15grs is probably irrelevant if you are using Barnes TSX...
But, as I said, if it were me I would go to a 200gr bullet and then you are talking an extra 35grs. I have a .300 H&H and use the 200gr Accubond in it. It is very accurate; pancakes deer.
63.5grs IMR-4350 and that is 2700 fps MV. 5 shots in 1".
It might have made a difference in the older days of 'regular' bullets, which might not hold together properly with a high velocity close range hit. We experienced something similar in the 70's using 'regular' bullets in the 7mm that were a little light - 2 bullets were fired striking an inch or two apart - both broke up inside a moose that was shot at close range and the damage was not that impressive (tho lethal.) We moved to 175 grain partitions, and started getting consistant passthru's with much more damage to the vitals. The slightly slower speed, and the bullet's better sectional density and ability to absorb damage and still hold together made a very noticable difference.
But today? Using an accubond? pfft. Use the 165's and enjoy your meal.
But today? Using an accubond? pfft. Use the 165's and enjoy your meal.
If they shot well out of the gun. And 'better' becomes slightly academic.... how dead does the moose have to be?
I tend to favour heavier bullets as well, but really we all know that if it blows thru the animal and holds together after mushrooming, you're really just talking about how much dirt you're going to move on the other side of the animal. It'll still be very dead.
- Location
- Lakes District BC
well like I said if your rifle dont shoot them worth a sh^t then why use them right? I refuse to give up accuracy when I know and I ap pretty sure that a 165 will drop a moose/bear/deer/sasquach without a problem and i also know the Tikka T3s tend to like a lighter bullet, and thats aperent in all the folks with them getting there best groups with a lighter bullet, like meathead stated years ago maybe there was a big difference nowadays lets be realistic if you recover a bullet on a deer or moose @ 100 yards you smoked bone mass all over the place or your bullet failed comp[letely, I have 3 recovered bullets from all the years I have hunted everything else went right on through so now does the 200 make a difference if it went through the same way the 165 did? does a tree laugh if a fat chick falls in the forest?
- Location
- Lakes District BC
Good one!
Back to the discussion...
Another reason I prefer the heavier bullet is cuz I might have to take a shoulder shot, which I forgot to say.
Accuracy is vital, bullet placement is paramount. It doesn't matter how big a poorly placed bullet is.
My .300 H&H will put 5 shots in 1" with the 200gr Accubond. I suppose I could increase the muzzle velocity slightly but it is not necessary. The whitetail buck I shot, with that last November, was at 200 yards facing me at a slightly quartering angle. I hit it inside the left shoulder and the bullet went out the right hip. A 165gr would have killed the buck just as dead, but remember this discussion is supposed to be about moose.
If that were a moose, again I am sure the 165gr Accubond would have dropped the moose, the 200gr is just more certain.
To each his own.
Btw Bone-Collector do you still use the .458WM for bear/moose?
