1860 Army .44 cal , beeswax or lard ?
- Thread starter 45C
- Start date
Mixed by volume not weight. I use a glass jar in a pan of water creating a double boiler. It takes a bit of experimenting to get the consistency you want. First time I had too much beeswax. Remelt and add more olive oil. Make a small batch then you’ll have a better idea of how much you need of each. After you figure it out a larger batch doesn’t have to be adjusted as you have done the trail and error. Stuff works good. Only problem is after a few shots it coats the everything in front of the cylinder. I wipe it off with a rag. Minor issue.Update, I stumbled across a health store and guess what… they had 100% Beeswax annndd the purest virgin oil you could possibly find… purer than the Virgin Mary
45C: 25 1/2 grains by volume is a moderate charge. Especially with 2F. Though you'll find that the equivalent charge in 3F runs a bit cleaner. Plus, delivers more velocity and performance. Most .44 C & B guns seem to deliver a good balance of accuracy and performance between about 25 and 30 grains. Your pistol likely being no different. Your gun will soon tell you what it likes.
Nothing wrong with using a .357 mag case from here on out, for a measure. Either solder or epoxy a bit of wire on it for a handle and scoop away.
I use discarded cases all the time, for powder measures. They work just fine.
Once you've determined your desired charge by volume, verify the charge on a scale. Dump that into your donor case, and note the powder level. Then, simply trim the case to the powder level(May have to repeat the trim and measure sequence a few times). Once satisfied that the charge is reasonably accurate. Attach a handle to it. Then, use it thereafter as a volumetric measure. It's that easy. Though often convenient, it doesn't have to be a pistol case, either. Any discarded rifle case works just as well.
It appears that you're checking charges on a scale, for consistency. That's always a good practice.
Al
Nothing wrong with using a .357 mag case from here on out, for a measure. Either solder or epoxy a bit of wire on it for a handle and scoop away.
I use discarded cases all the time, for powder measures. They work just fine.
Once you've determined your desired charge by volume, verify the charge on a scale. Dump that into your donor case, and note the powder level. Then, simply trim the case to the powder level(May have to repeat the trim and measure sequence a few times). Once satisfied that the charge is reasonably accurate. Attach a handle to it. Then, use it thereafter as a volumetric measure. It's that easy. Though often convenient, it doesn't have to be a pistol case, either. Any discarded rifle case works just as well.
It appears that you're checking charges on a scale, for consistency. That's always a good practice.
Al
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Amazon Canada sells beeswax with rapid delivery. A few blocks go a long way. Regular (for cooking) olive oil is what you want but it is getting pricey. Believe it or not, cocoanut oil will also work. The main challenge is deciding how hard you want the lube to be. For muzzleloading rifles, like P53, it's best not too hard, while for Snider and Martini harder is better. For Martini loading I simply use pure beeswax as was used in the original British ammunition.
milsurpo
MosinMan13
CGN Regular
- Location
- Thornbury Ontario
There ya go! Well on your way now.
I use a 50/50 mix of bear grease and bees wax. For cartridge guns, I just drag the slug through the mix and rub it smooth between my fingers and thumb. Even though I don't currently shoot any cap and ball revolvers, there would be nothing wrong with using it on top of the ball, when loaded
I think you would find straight bees wax too stiff for convenience and greases melted from animal fat too soft. There is nothing special about bear grease; I use it because I have it. Grease from any animal fat would be fine
cheers mooncoon2
I think you would find straight bees wax too stiff for convenience and greases melted from animal fat too soft. There is nothing special about bear grease; I use it because I have it. Grease from any animal fat would be fine
cheers mooncoon2
Got to the range today to try the 1860 and it was a hoot.
After all the tips and research,I decided to not use lube or wads and everything was fine.
Cylinder got a bit stiff after 12 rounds but I was pretty much done then anyway.
Next I’ll be looking for a .45 LC conversion kit.
Here’s the only photo I took of the target my son shot, he fired 5 rounds at about 20 yards… not to bad
After all the tips and research,I decided to not use lube or wads and everything was fine.
Cylinder got a bit stiff after 12 rounds but I was pretty much done then anyway.
Next I’ll be looking for a .45 LC conversion kit.
Here’s the only photo I took of the target my son shot, he fired 5 rounds at about 20 yards… not to bad
Attachments
45C: Nice shooting! You have two options for conversion cylinders: Taylor's & Company. Or: Kirst. Either will work well, in your revolver. When ordering, be sure to specify revolver brand.
By the way, Ballistol is the bp shooter's friend. Use it diluted for cleanup. Proportion doesn't seem to matter. I use either 8:1 or 9:1. (Water to Ballistol). Works well as a lube, too. Once the water evaporates, a thin film of oil is left behind. Or, spray undiluted on cylinder face and and arbor to loosen up fouling build-up. Versatile stuff.
Another great bp cleaner: Isopropyl alcohol(Rubbing alcohol). Dirt cheap and very effective at removing fouling. Have used it, for many years. Highly recommended. Does a great job of cleaning chambers and barrel. Use it mostly in the field, or at the range. Though also good for cleaning residual oil from chambers, prior to loading.
Hard to beat hot, soapy water though, for cleaning up bp fouling. Followed by hot water rinse. Thoroughly dry and lightly lube metal parts, before storing gun away.
Al
By the way, Ballistol is the bp shooter's friend. Use it diluted for cleanup. Proportion doesn't seem to matter. I use either 8:1 or 9:1. (Water to Ballistol). Works well as a lube, too. Once the water evaporates, a thin film of oil is left behind. Or, spray undiluted on cylinder face and and arbor to loosen up fouling build-up. Versatile stuff.
Another great bp cleaner: Isopropyl alcohol(Rubbing alcohol). Dirt cheap and very effective at removing fouling. Have used it, for many years. Highly recommended. Does a great job of cleaning chambers and barrel. Use it mostly in the field, or at the range. Though also good for cleaning residual oil from chambers, prior to loading.
Hard to beat hot, soapy water though, for cleaning up bp fouling. Followed by hot water rinse. Thoroughly dry and lightly lube metal parts, before storing gun away.
Al
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