1860 colt and new cylinder

tliner

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bought a new uberti cylinder for my original 1860 colt army 44. for some reason it wont slide over the cylinder pin. dixie gunworks lists this cylinder as fitting uberti and the original . anyone got any ideas what's going on here. thanks for any help with this
 
What you are probably experiencing is the difference between a hand fitted pistol (Original Colt) and a modern, CNC produced pistol (Uberti). It was not unusual in the case of original colts, that parts were not 'drop in' interchangeable. You probably will have to take your pistol and new cylinder in to a gunsmith to have it fitted......just like in the old days. I have 4 Uberti 1860's and 1 Antique Colt 1860. While the parts can interchange between the Uberti's; they don't all fit the original Colt. In the old days, the final fitting was done by hand.
 
ok. i understand where you're going with that and i thank you for your reply. as ive been reading info from a lot of others about this none have had any problem with any uberti cylinders fitting over the cylinder pin. if anything a person would think the cylinder would be a bit loose from the wear on the cylinder pin. it has definitely been used over the past 153 years. lol
 
Does the cylinder start onto the cylinder pin at all? Is there any upset or damage to the pin? Burrs? Have you measured the external and internal diameters?
 
starts onto the pin but jams at the spiral. im thinking edenchef may be right about the oversize pin. looks like ill have to find someone to fit it
 
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Before I reamed the new cylinder pin hole I would build a spud that fits the barrel axle hole and a step down dia section that fits the new cylinder to check for bore/chamber line-up, Its not out of the realm of possibilities that if the cyl isn't a drop-in fit that the chambers might not line with the bore.
 
took a closer look. to me it seems a 2 piece drop in sleeve has been added to the cylinder pin hole. I can see the lip on both ends and where it butts against each other to join. if I can figure out how to remove that it's looking like a perfect fit
 
@ tiriaq
the cylinder will go over the first part of the pin that is smooth but stops dead when it gets to the spiral.no damage to the pin, no burrs. i managed to measure the spiral of the pin and it's .439 inches. havent got a tool to measure the cylinder pin hole
 
If you have a set of drill bits, you could experiment with these as plug gauges, to try to get an idea of the diameter. Might be able to determine if it a matter of honing, polishing, or if boring or reaming will be necessary.
 
Tliner, for the sort of measurement you're doing at present even a set of calipers can be used for measuring the diameters of the arbor and the cylinder hole. I would not use calipers for gauging the size during any honing of the fit but just to see where the problem may sit they are fine.

On using the internal jaws of the calipers you want to hold a light amount of opening pressure against the roller of the shuttle while looking at the numbers. The largest size reading you get will be the truest value. Try to feel for that and "work" the calipers in ever smaller angles of motion as you close in on a steady largest reading.

And if you don't have a set of calipers? I'd suggest that if you mess around much with guns and other metal stuff that a set is a handy tool to have in your kit. For a set which will only be used occasionally I strongly suggest a set with the mechanical dial over a digital set. The cheap digital calipers are fine for measuring. But I find that even when set to "off" that they suck the battery dry in a few months. If you do go for digital then figure on removing the battery after use before you put them away.
 
that was easy to do. thanks BC. the pin is .439. the old cylinder, that fits, center hole is approx. .439. the new cylinder center hole, that doesn't fit , is .421. these wont be perfect but are close. it really does look like a sleeve in the center hole but maybe that's the way they are made
 
If it's a sleeve for sure it might be able to be pushed out. But if it's not a sleeve then it'll need to be bored out. And the easy way for that would be on a lathe. After that as mentioned you'd need to check the timing of the cylinder to be sure it locks up in alignment. Also that the notches around the outside actually fit the old antique stop bolt.

Try the calipers again. See if you can get repeatable readings off the inside jaws. That "approximately .439 should be closer to .440 or even .441. A size for size fit doesn't work and will actually bind quite firmly. So there needs to be a thou or two of clearance.
 
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