1868 Enfield

[Grouse Man]

As I mentioned in another post, my dad has an original 1868 Enfield, 3 band, breechloader. On the stock is stamped a number "1".

It will not stay cocked as something in the lockwork has worn out. I would assume a gunsmith could fix that, and it looks like .577 cartridges can be handloaded (either by me or by some helpful CGNer).

Is there anything else that would need to be done to check it out before firing it? That would be incredibly cool, as I'm sure nobody alive in my family has seen it fire.

Grouse Man

 

[Calum]

Don't clean the outside much..beyond rust prevention or it will loose value...ie leave patinas where they be.

My Mother in Law has one on her wall in near mint shape...even has the bayonet attached.

Hopefully Someday I'll be in your position to try it out also.

I wish you luck, and have fun.
Let us know how things go.

 

[albayo]

Hi Grouse Man
I have a complete lock mechenasm for one of them marked (1867) and some spare parts. I also have barrels, stocks (cut down) and some cut down muskets. If you can identify the broken part I may be able to help you.

Albayo

 

[Grouse Man]

I'll see if I can figure it out. Thanks.

G M

 

[Claven2]

I disagree somewhat about patina. Patina is fine, but dirt and rust are not. If you CLEAN the metal and wood, that's OK in my opinion, just don't remove any origina lfinish in the process. A clean firearm is a firearm that won't deteriorate as quickly and will work more reliably.

A decent gunsmith can repair your gun - definitely. And assuming it's in good repair and the bore is shootable, there's no reason not to fire it!

 

[Calum]

I disagree somewhat about patina. Patina is fine, but dirt and rust are not. If you CLEAN the metal and wood, that's OK in my opinion, just don't remove any origina lfinish in the process. A clean firearm is a firearm that won't deteriorate as quickly and will work more reliably.

That is what I said. Just I can't tell you the number of Antiques I have come accross that have been rendered almost Zero value for collector, and or insurence value because somewhere along the line some eager beaver/Bubba, dragged out the brasso, and scrub pads. :shock:

Also watch it! Some modern solvents will eat through old wood finish like a pitbull on a pork chop.

I'd Contact local Antique apprasers for Firearms and ask them what the cleaning guidlines are for working firearms in use...some cases you might have to let a certifided, and recognized restoration specialist clean said piece up to a 'working level', and still retain the value.

And then you can take it from there with home cleaning (within guidelines).
Historical recreation/heritage sites, and thier Firearms curators will have good info also on maintanece, and cleaning.

They might also spot some safety things that a modern gunsmith might miss, and offer all sorts of advice on making ammo, and show you originals etc.

 

[Westwood]

I just joined this site to find out more about this gun. I inherited one from my great grand-uncle and was wondering about it. can anyone fill me in? is it canadian or military? I don't know too much. it is like to one in the picture except no bayonette.

 

[albayo]

Musket Snider

Hi Westwood
Most Canadian Sniders I have had are marked on the butt with DC. I have had quite a few with that marking, and M&D which I believe stands for Militia and Defense.
Albayo

 

[Calum]

Here is a very small snippet on this page:

http://collections.ic.gc.ca/fort_henry/BackWay/weaponsSnider.html

I have a small booklet around I'll try to dig up.

Also I was wondering if any of the new Hornady Muzzleloading stuff..ie blackpowder pellets, and Sabots could be modified to work as a breech loading cartridge for a Snyder?

https://www.hornady.com/shop/?page=shop/browse&category_id=869f8d5ade1f95a56926ea240650f13c