1873 French pistol in .455???
- Thread starter LomondK
- Start date
Well it went back to a gunsmith this week, I was having trouble with it not hitting the primer when I used it in double action and discovered that the hammer pivot pin was cracked. Got some great advice on how to fix it and even some very generous offers to help me make a new pin. After determining that the pin is threaded in not just pushed in like I had hoped I took it to someone with a little more experience then I had in working with metal and such.
Hope to have it back soon so I can start on the new grips.
I'm thinking that I want to try some softer bullets with a hollow base as the hard cast ones from WSS don't group very well (6" at 10 yrds is enough that I'll try something else)
I'm enjoying it for sure.
Hope to have it back soon so I can start on the new grips.
I'm thinking that I want to try some softer bullets with a hollow base as the hard cast ones from WSS don't group very well (6" at 10 yrds is enough that I'll try something else)
I'm enjoying it for sure.
....
The bullets used for Webley 455 and 1873 are different, most difference is that the 1873 needs a healed bullet.
from left to right:
.451 (heal is .435) - SWC, 1 groove, healed - 175 gr (measured 173.3)
.452 - SWC 2 groove - 200 gr (measured 198.4)
.454 - RN - soft - 255 gr (measured 259.7 - yeah babe)
I have lots of more variations but that should do it for now, eh. My guess is that the bullet used is just not right for that gun, people do it all day long, I know, just ain't good for accuracy and a long life.
The OP should rather use a soft 45 ACP - SWC - 180 grain with 1 groove which is closest to the one he needs. I would still be concerned about the pressure though.
from left to right:
.451 (heal is .435) - SWC, 1 groove, healed - 175 gr (measured 173.3)
.452 - SWC 2 groove - 200 gr (measured 198.4)
.454 - RN - soft - 255 gr (measured 259.7 - yeah babe)
I have lots of more variations but that should do it for now, eh. My guess is that the bullet used is just not right for that gun, people do it all day long, I know, just ain't good for accuracy and a long life.
The OP should rather use a soft 45 ACP - SWC - 180 grain with 1 groove which is closest to the one he needs. I would still be concerned about the pressure though.
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For sure I think softer lead is the way to go for me, On a side note anybody know how to build a trigger return spring for one of these? I bought another one off gunbroker last night but it needs this spring, figure it shouldn't be to hard to copy the one I already had just figured I'd put it out there and ask for any tips.
I forge mine out of drill rod, anneal and file to dimension and curve then temper in water and finally draw the temper to spring temper in molten lead using my lead pot. I have been gradually increasing the temper that I draw to, to present of 720 - 740 F measured with a Brownell's lead thermometer
cheers mooncoon
That is great information about drawing temper on a spring with a lead pot. I used the Dixie gun works burning oil method and that can give unpredictable results on heavier springs
Not sure if it is the method that Dixie suggests, but I have tempered many springs in burning oil with good results. I have a tray about 4" long and I sit the spring on two finishing nails about 1 1/2" long then cover the spring with lube oil. Of recent I have had to add some 2 cycle oil to get it to burn properly. When the oil burns away, it is spring tempered. (obviously I have made the spring brittle hard by heating and quenching before this)
I make my springs from drill rod and I think that is important. I recently tried making springs from a car leaf spring and they seem to need a lot more heat. I think they need to be drawn to at least 800 F. Needless to say I went back to drill rod.
Small leaf springs, I temper in molten lead because I think they are too small for the burning oil method and very large springs in molten lead because they are too big. The miquelet spring that I made was over 1" across and there would have been over 1/4" above the oil.
cheers mooncoon
I've found the burning oil makes the small springs too soft and the very thick (large) springs seem to get an uneven draw.
BTW: the oil does not have to cover the spring, it just has to heat it evenly.
I've found it best to keep the spring 1/4 inch or so off the bottom of the burning oil bath as I get better results.
