I was just wondering if any of the BP shooters have any load data info on how much BP or substitute is required for use in the .357, 158gr cartridge. I tried the .38 special loads a friend made for me....it was amazing to shoot.....a lot of fun. Now i'm hooked lol. Any load data would be great, thank you in advance.
1873 Uberti 357
- Thread starter shockwave
- Start date
Of course you can! Go to a CAS event and watch the pop gun gamers run their powder puff loads (2-1/2 grs baby powder) whose bullets hitting steel at 10m make more noise than the sound of the discharge. You can't design a CAS stage where the rifle/carbine is the last gun fired as quite often, the timers won't pick up the shot.
With BP however, that is not an issue. Everyone on the range knows if you're a BP shooter! Shoot "Cowboy" or go home!
With BP however, that is not an issue. Everyone on the range knows if you're a BP shooter! Shoot "Cowboy" or go home!
Thanks for the info. I just picked up a .45 Uberti today. Found a site that gives load data for 200 & 250 gr bullets using FFFg & FFg powder. The site is called JS publications. Can't wait until I give this a try, again thanks for the info guys.
I'm using 22 grains of FFF goex in my 357 mag loads under a 158 grain bullet. Goex lists 25 grains of powder under a 160 grain bullet on their website for 357 magnum:
http://www.goexpowder.com/images/LoadCharts/Cartridge-Pistol-Revolvers.pdf
http://www.goexpowder.com/images/LoadCharts/Cartridge-Pistol-Revolvers.pdf
The first and most important rule for black powder loading is "NO AIR GAP ! ! ! ".
With that in mind I've not bothered to measure how much powder I use in my BP .357's. I just fill them up until the level is such that seating the bullet will give a 1.5 to 2mm compression of the powder and call it a day. The actual volume is not really a big deal. But the proper amount of compression based on a proper fill level and seating the bullet to achieve that compression is very much a big deal.
I do use a measuring dipper to dole the powder out but I've never bothered to check how many grains it would be since the volume of the fill in the casing is more of what I want to achieve.
.357Mag casings loaded in this way with BP will give a kick much like a somewhat medium to stout .38Spl smokeless load. From a heavy rifle like an 1873 this translates to "super light recoil". Toss in the fact that the pressure build and felt recoil with BP is more of a push than a thump and recoil from BP loads is far lighter at the shoulder.
Full loads of BP in .45Colt loads will quickly make you realize why they were a respected round back in the day. They don't kick like a .44Mag by any means. But you'll know you've been shooting a gun for sure ! ! !
There's really no need at all to run the .38 size stuff with a filler to reduce the powder for a milder kick. They are mild enough already. But if anyone wants to run .45Colt with a slightly milder BP load the trick is to use a felt wad or something like corn meal as a filler/spacer. That way the compression of the charge is maintained. A filler is applied separately over the black powder, not mixed in with it. The compression from the bullet in the casing ensures that they can't mix together.
This light to firm compression of the powder is a key factor in keeping the peak pressure down. Air gaps allow all the powder to ignite at once and that spikes the pressures up well over what is expected. Like WELL up there to where a light charge with a big air gap can damage a gun.
With that in mind I've not bothered to measure how much powder I use in my BP .357's. I just fill them up until the level is such that seating the bullet will give a 1.5 to 2mm compression of the powder and call it a day. The actual volume is not really a big deal. But the proper amount of compression based on a proper fill level and seating the bullet to achieve that compression is very much a big deal.
I do use a measuring dipper to dole the powder out but I've never bothered to check how many grains it would be since the volume of the fill in the casing is more of what I want to achieve.
.357Mag casings loaded in this way with BP will give a kick much like a somewhat medium to stout .38Spl smokeless load. From a heavy rifle like an 1873 this translates to "super light recoil". Toss in the fact that the pressure build and felt recoil with BP is more of a push than a thump and recoil from BP loads is far lighter at the shoulder.
Full loads of BP in .45Colt loads will quickly make you realize why they were a respected round back in the day. They don't kick like a .44Mag by any means. But you'll know you've been shooting a gun for sure ! ! !
There's really no need at all to run the .38 size stuff with a filler to reduce the powder for a milder kick. They are mild enough already. But if anyone wants to run .45Colt with a slightly milder BP load the trick is to use a felt wad or something like corn meal as a filler/spacer. That way the compression of the charge is maintained. A filler is applied separately over the black powder, not mixed in with it. The compression from the bullet in the casing ensures that they can't mix together.
This light to firm compression of the powder is a key factor in keeping the peak pressure down. Air gaps allow all the powder to ignite at once and that spikes the pressures up well over what is expected. Like WELL up there to where a light charge with a big air gap can damage a gun.
NorthCoastBigBore
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
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BC Rider sums it up, there ain't much science to it.
IME I find the biggest factor (other than preventing any air gaps) is the boolit lube with BP cartridges (use lead the softer the better but I've only got hard cast right now, they work fine), now everyone has their special recipe but the best one I've found (no criticism here of anyone else's recipe) is dead simple (and dirt cheap) 50/50 Wal-Mart olive oil & pure beeswax. Melt together with a double-boiler style setup on your stove and pan lube, call it a day...the other day it was 30 degrees out and I managed 50 rounds through my .45 Colt Uberti, without any stoppages and still hitting the steel. I find it works just as well in the cold (we usually don't get below -15 here and I usually ain't shooting below -5 but still). I'm also not shooting groups just plates and poppers, so minute of "Down Zero" is good enough.
Oh and keep the lube and yer lubed boolits secure from mice...don't ask me how I learned that...
IME I find the biggest factor (other than preventing any air gaps) is the boolit lube with BP cartridges (use lead the softer the better but I've only got hard cast right now, they work fine), now everyone has their special recipe but the best one I've found (no criticism here of anyone else's recipe) is dead simple (and dirt cheap) 50/50 Wal-Mart olive oil & pure beeswax. Melt together with a double-boiler style setup on your stove and pan lube, call it a day...the other day it was 30 degrees out and I managed 50 rounds through my .45 Colt Uberti, without any stoppages and still hitting the steel. I find it works just as well in the cold (we usually don't get below -15 here and I usually ain't shooting below -5 but still). I'm also not shooting groups just plates and poppers, so minute of "Down Zero" is good enough.
Oh and keep the lube and yer lubed boolits secure from mice...don't ask me how I learned that...
