1899 Lee Enfield Carbine restoration.

englishman_ca

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I picked up this little carbine last year, 1899 dated and all matching numbers.

By the serial number and markings, this carbine is one of the batch of 300 carbines purchased by the Canadian Govt in 1899, a UK purchase sold out of British Army Stores (Edgecombe, P160).

A classic sporter now of the style that has been used for generations and has no doubt put meat on the table.

I decided to have a crack at it seeing that I had a chunk of nice old black walnut. Cut in the Niagara area about 75 years ago.

I had my camera at hand, which is a rarity and thought that I could chronicle the project. I almost remembered to take enough pics.

The carbine although in decent enough mechanical condition, was not looking it best for sure. The sportered wood had been varnished a long time ago and made it look dirty and dark. I used 'Circa 1850' brand paint stripper to lift off the varnish or shellac to reveal the true colour of the wood underneath. Nice Italian walnut of a shade typical of that used by Enfield at the turn of the 20th century. Shown here at the bottom to compare it to a couple of other carbine woods.


I had an original fore end which I 'borrowed' from another carbine to use as a pattern for copying. The master has a small block mounted with screws to the rear end and a small dimple drilled as a pivot point drilled into the nose. Evidence of these will be covered when the original carbine is re-assembled and will be invisible.


I cut a chunk of walnut and got it ready to mount into the duplicator machine which is basically a router bit ganged mechanically to a stylus. Wherever I move the stylus, the cutter follows the path of movement very closely. There is a bit of a knack in cutting and I have been developing my technique. I am at a point now where I am comfortable with showing things off. I have created lots of sawdust and a lot more scrap wood than successful wood sets to date, but the final fit and finish is getting better. I did quite a few 'practice' runs working on Nepaleses Cache Martini Francotte rifles, where a stock, if perfect would look out of place. Technique involves knowing the grain of the wood and cutting direction, cutter set up, finger tip touch and control for inletting. Basically practicing, making lots of mistakes (walnut makes great kindling) and getting to know the machine and its limitations.



The focus when making the stock is on the inletting and keeping the master and blank locked tight in the machine. Care needs to be taken to rotate the stocks and get everything re aligned and within close tolerance. The machine can hold twenty thousands of an inch if I do my part.


The exterior profile is rough cut oversize to allow for final shaping and to ensure that I have enough material to be able to remove all the cutter marks.

I fitted a repop nose cap that came from Twin Kauris in New Zealand. It is reworked a bit. And I fitted a barrel band which is one that I forged from one taken from a long lee Enfield rifle. Forging is used to remove the shoulders and draw the metal out to make the band longer.
This can be seen on this thread here. http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php/881481-Lee-Enfield-Carbine-reproduction-nosecaps





The surface is still covered in file marks and is still a ways off from being finished. When I get the thing final sanded, I will then get going with alcohol based dye to match up the wood colour of all three pieces.

So this is how it sits at its first fit up. The handguard is an original, and the fit is good.

Total time into making the forearm...about two hours on the duplicator and another four to finish inletting and rough outside shaping. I'll probably spend another afternoon finish sanding and dyeing. I will then to start the BLO regime.

I have another carbine project where I will take a sportered and cut forearm and splice with some wood to extend it and then recut to profile.
I have few cut forearms that I think can be restored to original length this way.

It might just work.

Stay tuned.
 
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I tried splicing wood onto the front of a sportered forarm and reprofiled it in my duplicator.

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I cut the end off the sportered foream and figured how much wood that I would need to add.


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Drilled the extension to take some steel threaded rod.

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The fore arm has corresponding holes drilled.
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Filled the holes with epoxy and clamped everything up.
I waited until next morning.

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This is what I ended up with. The splice is strong enough to use the thing as a bat. All ready to load into the duplicator.

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So this is far as this story goes. Getting the geometry right and mounting things in sync is more than a challenge. It didn't work, my barrel channel was so far out (1/8 inch at tip) I cut the extension off and started again. Didn't take photos, I was too pissed off. The next time I know where to look and take extra care to get it aligned. So I learnt something.


I'll post more pics when I redo it. BIG IF, if I do it this way again. I know that if I had just spliced the wood and then inlet the barrel channel by hand, this method would have worked. Serves me right for trying to find a shortcut.


However, not a failure as I now know what doesn't work. Time to move onto plan B.
 
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Plan B.

I took another sportered forearm and cut off the front to where I believed that there was no sanding or mods.
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I made a front section in the duplicator using an original as a pattern
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I prepared the two pieces for splicing reinforced with steel rods.
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I used epoxy to join them, I clamped the two pieces onto a barrel and action to ensure eveything lined up.

And voila!
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So now I can fit the repro nose cap. The barrel band is a reworked long Lee Enfield unit. I modified by forging to remove the shoulders and to draw it out.
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Next step is to fashion a front handguard and then get going with the leather dye to match things up re coloured as a dark walnut.
 
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Very nice work. Another LMC 1 comes back from the brink. It's always nice to see one that has retained it's D ring. Have you considered bleaching the black walnut extension and top wood rather than staining the original Italian walnut?
 
I wish that I could find a nice chunk of Italian walnut sap wood. I have been scouring yard sales and flea markets looking at table legs!

I don't know as to how light a colour the black walnut could be bleached. The Italian walnut has a yellow tinge to it that could be replicated with the right dyes..


I like the dark walnut of some of my older specimens, so it is much easier for me to dye the wood darker to match.

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It turned out ok though. Once I get it colour matched and start with the linseed oil, it should look good.

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So PLAN B worked and was successful. The splice is strong and solid.


This is the first fit up. Initial sanding and shaping. Final shaping and fitting of the barrel band and nose cap to be done.

The stocking up is tight at the drawers, receiver ring and barrel reinforce, it should be, it is the original. The barrel channel is in perfect alignment. I reworked the bolt lugs for even bearing and changed out the bolt head for better headspace. We will see how this one shoots.

Now I am out of cav carbine nose caps!

I have a NZ carbine to do up next.
 
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Black walnut can be bleached to a light to medium blonde color using a two part bleach solution consisting of hydrogen peroxide and liquid lye. It is then a matter of using dyes or stain to match the original wood. I have had good luck using the stain to tint BLO and applying it in multiple coats as one would with straight linseed. One can use multiple tints to accomplish shading. Turns the hands some odd shades though.
 
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This is the same carbine, work in progress - Fiebing's dark brown alcohol based leather dye.

The carbine sits on the rack waiting its turn. I have had good luck using the leather dye but there is a definite right and wrong way to use it.

My technique is to give it several applications until the woodwork is a solid brown colour. That tells me that the wood has absorbed as much as it can. Then (this is an important step) I let it flash off and dry thoroughly for 3 or four days, longer if I can resist. If I start with the oil before the dye has dried and 'set', then oiling will wash and lift the dye. Gotta let it dry completely .

I begin the oil treatment using extra fine steel wool as a pad soaked in boiled linseed oil. I use BLO as I want it to dry and seal the surface and lock in the dye. I wear latex gloves otherwise my hands will go brown. I rub with the grain. Much of the surface dye will come off with the first application of oil. I wipe often with a cotton rag and see how the grain is coming out.

Since the purpose of dyeing the different shades of wood is to match, here is where the fun part begins. If I rub an area it will lighten up, so the game is to leave the light wood dark and lighten the dark wood to match. It works well and if I screw up, I just wipe with acetone and re-dye.

When I start getting a nice build of BLO, I will use a technique called 'boning'. It was (and still is) used by stock makers in the early days before abrasive paper. I use an actual bone, a nice curved and smooth rib bone from the BBQ. The back of a large metal spoon will work too. The idea is to oil the surface lightly and to rub pressing hard to burnish with the bone. This compresses the surface and polishes it. This makes the wood smooth and can even give me a shine if I wanted it. I can make the wood look like it has been handled for generations. Since the new wood needs to match the old wood butt stock wood in both colour and finish, boning is the way to go.

Boning removes no material and is my way to flatten raised grain after steaming.
 
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