1911 9mm Locking Up

bamboo633

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I recently purchased a Norinco NP-29 off the EE. I should have returned it as soon as I saw the Bubba marks on the feed ramp and the filthy state it was in but... lets just say its a lesson learned. At least it was a cheap one.

Anyways, I took it out and shot 40 rounds through it without issue, left positive feedback and everything is great. Except that now it locks up about every 25 rounds, the slide is seized solid. I mean bent a 3/8" brass punch getting it open kind of solid.

I have included pictures below. The round in it fires and the slide brings the hammer back to half #### (it is at full #### in the picture but I did that after the fact). If the slide is forced back with some serious pounding, I can remove the slide stop pin and disassemble. Everything looks completely normal inside. No sign of binding or scarring.

I am not much of a 1911 expert to put it kindly, I only purchased the pistol to try out a 9mm 1911. No big loss if it is a write-off I am just interested in learning more about the handgun.

Do any of you experts know what is up with this poor guy?

Overall.jpg

Chamber.jpg

bushing.jpg

Thanks for any help you can offer.
 

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The first suspect probably should be the ammunition. Did you use a case gage on the ammunition?

Next, I'd consult the Kuhnhausen manuals. They'll guide you through your inspection, and help you find your issue(s).

COLT 45 AUTO SHOP MANUAL- 10TH EDITION
<https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/books-amp-videos/books/handgun-gunsmithing-books/colt-45-auto-shop-manual-10th-edition-prod13805.aspx?avs%7cManufacturer_1=HERITAGE%2bGUN%2bBOOKS>

US M1911 AND M1911A SHOP MANUAL- VOLUME II

<https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/books-amp-videos/books/handgun-gunsmithing-books/us-m1911-and-m1911a-shop-manual-volume-ii-prod13815.aspx?avs%7cManufacturer_1=HERITAGE%2bGUN%2bBOOKS>
 
I would take a look at the barrel link and pin. Possible the pin fits loosely and is walking out when cycling

Link may be the wrong size or might have bad tolerances.

My 2 cents
 
Did someone install a too tight barrel bushing and it is preventing the barrel from coming fully out of battery, norinco’s barrels do not have a raised barrel bushing area on the end of the barrel so the bushing if fitted tightly needs to be relieved on the front top and back bottom to prevent barrel spring.
 
The bushing on my np29 did the same thing as yours. The lug that held it in the slide wore out and that was why my bushing would tip away at the top like in your picture . I fit a Fusion bushing to the slide and barrel. Took me about an hour, had to fit the lug and open up its inside diameter so the barrel would fit through it. Now its nice and tight. Worked like a charm and its more accurate.
 
Wow, I was not expecting quite so many responses. Thanks to all of you. I will try out some of the responses and let you know what happens.

Some of the parts on the gun do not look original so who knows what actually belongs and what doesn't. Anything could have been changed or modified. I will check as much as I can tonight.

Thanks all!
 
I'd bet on a busted barrel link too.
If it is a busted barrel link , that could happen at any given time , especially if it's the original knock off chinese made link. Hardly a reason to blame the seller.

I dunno what to make of the barrel bushing..... that is an odd thing..... almost as if it was pried away from the barrel somehow?
Never seen that before LOL
 
I would drive it closed again , if you can with out too much effort, and take the bushing out first, it looks buggered , it should give you some slop to work with.
I am with 45acp, take the link out and really check it and the pins.
Check the end of barrel, could be rough from the bushing.
Check the chamber , make sure it is smooth .
If and when you get the slide off, take a bunch of pictures of the bits and post them.
These usually run good, if a bit sloppy, Chinese mags usally are best left in the bottom of the pile, lots are better , though mine work, just not smooth.
I had the same gun with lots of rounds thru it and it was smoothed out good and shot any old crappy ammo or reloads.
P.S. with those guide rods they use , you have to have the slide closed to take the bushing out. John Browning never made them like that.
 
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The barrel bushing looks wonky, however I think that a chubby link is the culprit.
Sometimes they can bind inside the dust cover.
If you see marks on its bottom, you can try grinding them away. Some Nork links have too much beef.
They can seem good when racking the slide, but jam up when a round is fired.
 
I drove the handgun open again and will post pictures of the individual parts tonight. The barrel bushing is very loose and will rock back and forth a bit in the slide but I am not sure how loose is too loose. The pin on the slide stop is a very loose fit in the link but again, how loose is too loose?

I suspect that quite a few of these parts did not belong to this gun originally.
 
I would try to find a good standard link, pin and slide stop and bushing, but the bushing may not be a standard size on the 9mm. Check to see why it is sitting wrong, cracked? lug broke?
Have a good look at the barrel hood and the lugs and the slide lugs.
 
The barrel bushing should not be loose in the slide.
The barrel should be able to move smoothly within the bushing, without excessive wobble.
 
I can rock the barrel bushing back and forth enough to slide a .022 feeler gauge under it with the barrel and spring installed in the slide. It also has some in and out play. There does not seem to be a lot of wear on the slide slot or bushing so I think someone may have changed the bushing to one that does not fit. I think it needs to be replaced.

@EDJ Where did you get your replacement? If you had a pointer to the part number that would be even better if it isn't asking too much.

I also took some pictures so the eagle eyed among you can hopefully point out any other issues:

Slide Stop and Link.jpg

Barrel Fit.jpg

Bushing Out.jpg

Recoil Fit.jpg

Slide Close.jpg
 

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Sorry to say but your pistol looks to be in pretty rough shape overall. Just my observation from the pictures.

When assembled with slide forward and hammer down does the rear of the slide line up with the rear of the frame. If not it could be a combination of out of spec lower barrel lug (this is an easy fix if you have the right cutter - brownells sells em) or the incorrect size link (you can get link kits from brownells as well) or the barrel hood might be to long (also an easy fix).

Without inspecting it it appears From the pictures that The barrel lower lug / barrel link issue is contributing to your issues.

The slide stop appears very worn. I have a 1911 with over 60,000 rounds and the slide stop looks brand new.

The barrel link appears a bit ovalled where the slide stop pin would go through it, and the picture showing the top of the slide appears to show the barrel being out of battery. The barrel hood may be too long and need fitting.

Are you able to tell if the underside of the slide where the upper barrel lugs make contact is marred? If so it was not fitted correctly.

My advice would be to show the pistol to someone in your area that is familiar with them and get their opinion after a first hand inspection.

1911 pistols require most parts to be hand fitted if the parts are not rated drop in, and even then fitting can be required. Tolerances vary wildly amongst different manufacturers of both parts and frames and slides, and I expect Nork’s also have big variations.
 
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