Any love for the Sig 1911s here? Havent seen the mentioned but I love my P226 Tacops. Was looking at potentially grabbing a 1911 Tacops as well. I need to scratch my .45 1911 itch now that hhe 9mm and 40S&W ones have been satiated. .40S&W wasnt for me so I'm selling my 96A1 and ammo and going to try the 1911's I hear so much about lol.
1911 advice
- Thread starter Frank-
- Start date
I would agree. I have two STIs. Great guns on the EE. Hell I bought an Ed Brown in mint condition on EE for two Gs. And as far as plastic goes check out how much of an F1 car or a high tech jet is plastic. Plastic is a high performance material these days.
I just finished working on A 1911 from Saraphim Armoury. I was very impressed with the quality as well as fit and finish. None of the rough machining you see on Norinco's. I could not fault any of the components in that price range and there is plenty left over in the budget for some custom parts. None of the affordable 1911's and few of the higher priced ones come out of the box ready to go nice and smooth. Trojans are one of the exceptions. You can run them right out of the box with no need for tuning. Plus, the Seraphim guys are local and will take care of you if something does go wrong. Good luck.
I love my Sig 1911 Target. Sigs are based on a series 80 which purists feel is a fopar or ruins a good trigger. Well, my Sig 1911's trigger is nicer than my Springfield RO which is a series 70.
The slide is a non-traditional shape, many of them have rails, they're all series 80 and have external extractors. So they're literally the antithesis of what the old school, die hard 1911 guys think a 1911 should be. Having said that, I've shot and fondled a few of them and they were all nice, well fit guns. I actually have a sneaking suspicion one will be making it's way into my gun safe before too long.
That's a steal of a deal but for often I've seen them into the $1400+ range with the Trojan into the $2k range although there is a Trojan listed at $1300 (I think).
With the slide on, the only visible difference would be the firing pin stop (FPS) if I’m not mistaken. The S80 FPS has a cut away for the firing pin safety lever. The S70 FPS only has a cutaway on the left side. I think you’d have to pull the slide back to see the difference though.
If you take the slide off you can see the difference pretty easily. The trigger safety parts will be visible in the S80 and obviously don’t exist on the 70.
Series 80 FPS:
View attachment 157790
Series 70 FPS:
View attachment 157791
Series 80 vs 70 frame (S70 in foreground):
View attachment 157792
Bottom of S80 slide:
View attachment 157795
Bottom of S70 slide:
View attachment 157796
Last edited:
If I’m not mistaken most, if not all, guns come with a solid bushing now.
I doubt most people would be able to tell the difference, from looking at the internals.
So for actual shooting, what is the difference? Better trigger on one?etc?
Say casual shooting, couple hundred rnds per month.
Why did the change come about?
So for actual shooting, what is the difference? Better trigger on one?etc?
Say casual shooting, couple hundred rnds per month.
Why did the change come about?
To make it "safer"
Some claimed the 70 could fire if dropped because the firing pin was only held back by the spring. So the 80 is a lawyers gun. The firing pin block prevents the firing pin from moving until the trigger is pulled. The mechanism is actually a pretty cool design in how it works. The general complaint was trigger weight with the new design. But a good gunsmith can fix that. Also, there are kits available to convert a S80 to an S70 by replacing the levers with shims.
It isn't an accident waiting to happen but it was to prevent it from firing if dropped on the muzzle there's was also changes to the hammer pre80 and they added a quarter #### shelf to prevent the hammer from having enough inertia to fire if your thumb slips while thumbing the hammer down.
