1911 Expert Advice

Ganderite

Ganderite

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Farm south of North Bay
I Just bought a used, blue 1911 Colt Gold Cup, M80.

It functions fine and accuracy at 20 yards is good.
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But, there is something amiss with the trigger.

When loading in the usual manner, the first time I pull the trigger it is about 8 lbs. All subsequent shots with that mag are about 3 pounds.

If I load the old way, pulling the trigger back before dropping the slide, this catches the sear on the disconnect, and then when I release the trigger and and start shooting, the first shot is a nice crisp 3 pounds.

Anyone recognize this issue?

Up until recently, my solution to a 1911 problem like this would be to phone Rodger Kotanko, who would probably know the problem and could often tell me how to fix it myself.
 
Ganderite, did you do a detail strip of the gun? I think that the first owner might have tried to lighten the trigger pull by playing with the sear or bending the first (and maybe the second too) leaf of the sear spring, as mentioned by OkayShooter.

OK
 
Just one mag or all mags, just one, trigger bow could be dragging on a fat mag, but don't sound like it.
Are you real sure that the slide is all the way ahead when released on 1 st round?
Make sure disconnector is free
I have not run into that, could also read a book or two.
 
I also recommend a detailed disassembly.. something may not be installed correctly particularly the firing pin plunger lever / trigger bar lever (series 80 specific), but also perhaps the sear spring.. worth a look. It can be daunting to take a 1911 down to its underwear and beyond but take your time and it'll go smoothly.

https://www.inland-mfg.com/1911A1_government_parts.html
 
Ganderite said:
I have stripped 1911s quite a few times. But I don't know what I am looking for. Tweaking the mainspring sounds like a place to start.
Click to expand...

Do you have another 1911 that you can compare to? I know most own more than just one 1911. Pretty sure there are guides online with proper template a sear spring should be set at.
 
I’m not understanding your old way of loading. Slide locked back, insert mag, pull the trigger and hold while you release the slide?

Mimicking a powered cycle?
 
Ganderite said:
I have stripped 1911s quite a few times. But I don't know what I am looking for. Tweaking the mainspring sounds like a place to start.
Click to expand...
To be honest this doesn't sound like a mainspring problem. I have found that changing mainsprings has only limited effect on lightening or increasing trigger pull. I agree with some of the others that this sounds like a sear spring or disconnector problem. Do you have a couple of spares that you can swap out for comparison?
 
Hi Ganderite ..The 1911 Gold Cup is a fine pistol and I have had a few myself.Your problem is a head scratcher for sure .As I recall the series 80 has the firing pin safety block and is located in the left side of the frame and attached to the same pin that holds the hammer.That block is moved by a device referred to as a `birds head``because of the shape, sorry I do not know the tech name that is held by the same pin as the sear and disconnet.Whew..seeing as how the gun is used maybe those parts have been altered as was done sometimes to get rid of the firing pin block.Hope this long winded reply helps.
Dave
 
Does it happen if you dry fire it? If it does, here’s a quick test for you. Remove the plunger and spring from the slide and try dry firing it. If that fixes the problem, it’s a plunger/firing pin issue.
 
I just scanned through The Colt .45 Automatic shop manual and can’t find anything about your issue… sorry
 
I'm fairly certain that as it only ever happens on the first round, that is what needs to be focused on. If the only common denominator is a full magazine, should we not look there first? If the mag is a 7 rounder, does the trigger drag if there is only 6 rounds in?

Are you loading the magazine into the pistol with the slide locked back and then letting the slide chamber the round when it happens, or are you seating the magazine on a closed slide when it happens?

A detailed strip is always good advice, but as you say the gun runs fine aside from the first round I'd say the gun is fine. Without having it in hand, I'd be leaning toward the magazine. Does it drop free when fully loaded? (Is the trigger bow dragging on the mag?)
 
Ganderite said:
I have stripped 1911s quite a few times. But I don't know what I am looking for. Tweaking the mainspring sounds like a place to start.
Click to expand...

Then you're better off than most! But I think you mean sear spring instead of mainspring (and I think that's less likely here than other possibilities).

What you're describing sounds like you get the heavy trigger pull only when you release the slide without keeping the trigger depressed. Is that right?

I'm certainly no expert, but that sounds like a trigger reset issue to me. Assuming the parts are all in spec and installed correctly, my money is on drag / interference somewhere in the fire control system. Hopefully it's just dirty, and a complete disassembly and clean and lube will fix the problem.

If it doesn't: I've never had a series 80 apart, but I think you can check the fire control operation without the slide installed just like with a series 70. That should give you the chance to play with how the trigger reset is working in conjunction with the disconnector and FPBS, and with and without a loaded magazine. Just don't drop the hammer directly onto the frame without the slide in place. If that doesn't give any clues, I'd then do the same thing with the grip safety removed so you can see how the sear spring is working.
 
Sounds like a bad mag.
With the mag stuff full, it may be swollen slightly causing drag on the trigger bow. Once one round is fired, the swelling goes down and the trigger pull returns to normal.

Try with a new mag and/or try with round in chamber and no mag and/or with only 2 or 3 rounds in the mag you have. If my theory is correct these conditions should not have the heavy trigger pull.

-ivan-
 
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