1911 from .45ACP to 9mm?

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Just wondering if it's possible (most likely is @.@) and wondering what's needed. A barrel and mag obviously, recoil spring, ejector... anything else? Was thinking of picking up a Norinco 1911 off the EE or Marstar and getting all the stuffs together to convert from .45 to 9mm (monetary reasons, and I haven't really fired a pistol much, and the big bore makes me feel inadequate :redface:) Not sure if this should go in the gunsmithing section or not, thought here would be a good first chance (sorry mods if I performed erroneously :rolleyes:)

any thoughts would be appreciated ^.^b

P.S. Play nice :p
 
Should work, as long as the slide and barrel is fitted right that was from another 1911. 9mm slide is different from 45
 
This is a Series 80 Colt converted to 9mm. It was a pain in the butt to get to run but now it is a reliable tack driver. It would be easier and cheaper to buy a factory 9mm 1911.

9mm2.jpg
 
I've been doing some searches on other peoples projects and prices for parts and what not... Until finances and work settles I think taking on this kind of project is a little unreasonable time and money wise @.@... Thanks all ^.^ good dream while it lasted :D
 
An entire upper assembly would be needed along with a 9mm ejector and magazines.
I have gone the other way, 9mm to .45. Not difficult nor particularly expensive. The .45 parts I needed were easier and less expensive to find than 9mm parts would have been.
 
I'd enquired about this years ago. My pistolsmith told me that, as well as the breechface, extractor, ejector, and slide stop issues mentioned above, the sizes & shapes of the feedramps on the frames differ between 9mm Luger & .45 ACP. He went on to say that the only way he'd agree to make a trouble-free switch-top pistol in those two calibers would to mill the frame to accept two ramped barrels. And even after that, there'd still be a certain amount of frigging around with the ejectors.
 
An entire upper assembly would be needed along with a 9mm ejector and magazines.
I have gone the other way, 9mm to .45. Not difficult nor particularly expensive. The .45 parts I needed were easier and less expensive to find than 9mm parts would have been.

+1

Much easier to start with a 1911 pistol in 9mm and do up a .45ACP conversion. Complete top-end in .45ACP, ejector to convert frame and magazines & you're good to go.

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NAA.
 
back in the 80's and 90s , GUNS AND AMMO magazine would regularly do an article on how many different"conversions" they could do using a 1911 - b/c of where the EJECTOR is placed on the government models in 45, and the fact that it was pinned in place, the government models were not suited for conversion, but the COMMANDER models were- they also had to elongate one of the holes in the ejector well- when it was all said and done, they could do 22, 9mm, 38 super, 38/45 clerke, and 45acp- subsequent models also had 30 tokarev, 400 corbon, and of course 451 detonics , finally ending up with 460 roland- all on the 38 SUPER COMMANDER frame- gun parts prices were somewhat cheaper then than now, and the project was relatively cheap- now you can buy a whole new chinese or knockoff gun for the price of just the upper, let alone the "gunsmithing" that went into it-
 
I am in the process of building a 9mm 1911. The parts list you have, and note of the frame issue, which is my stumbling block right now. This is not a rational project. But it is a great way to learn things, and if you ever get the Frankenstein running you will be inordinately smug - I know I will be!

iain
 
The photo may not show it but my 9mm conversion has about $3,000(US) in it. I paid a friend $1,000 for it, he had $2,500 in it; the pistol exhibited remarkable accuracy but it had reliability problems. I put another $500.00 into it including hard chrome by Virgil Tripp and work by Maryann Carniak and Ten Ring Precision. That is why I recommend buying a factory 9mm 1911.
 
back in the 80's and 90s , GUNS AND AMMO magazine would regularly do an article on how many different"conversions" they could do using a 1911 - b/c of where the EJECTOR is placed on the government models in 45, and the fact that it was pinned in place, the government models were not suited for conversion, but the COMMANDER models were- they also had to elongate one of the holes in the ejector well- when it was all said and done, they could do 22, 9mm, 38 super, 38/45 clerke, and 45acp- subsequent models also had 30 tokarev, 400 corbon, and of course 451 detonics , finally ending up with 460 roland- all on the 38 SUPER COMMANDER frame- gun parts prices were somewhat cheaper then than now, and the project was relatively cheap- now you can buy a whole new chinese or knockoff gun for the price of just the upper, let alone the "gunsmithing" that went into it-

I still have that article, and by an odd coincidence, I was just reading it the other day. They started with a 38 Super Government gun, added a 45 Commander slide and barrel assembly (which will work with the 38 Super ejector), a 38-45 Clarke barrel for the Commander slide, a 22 Conversion kit slide assembly, and, eventually (later article), a 9mm barrel and mag (which they state will work with the Super frame). They also speak of a 30 Mauser conversion. Now days, you could add a 40 Short and Weak, a 10mm, and a 357 Sig to the mix. I have a couple o frames laying around, I may have to play with this idea some more. You should never expect to get even remotely close to your money out of any gun project, so that doesn't even factor into the equation. If I had to pay someone else to do the work though, I wouldn't even consider it. - dan
 
I still have that article, and by an odd coincidence, I was just reading it the other day. They started with a 38 Super Government gun, added a 45 Commander slide and barrel assembly (which will work with the 38 Super ejector), a 38-45 Clarke barrel for the Commander slide, a 22 Conversion kit slide assembly, and, eventually (later article), a 9mm barrel and mag (which they state will work with the Super frame). They also speak of a 30 Mauser conversion. Now days, you could add a 40 Short and Weak, a 10mm, and a 357 Sig to the mix. I have a couple o frames laying around, I may have to play with this idea some more. You should never expect to get even remotely close to your money out of any gun project, so that doesn't even factor into the equation. If I had to pay someone else to do the work though, I wouldn't even consider it. - dan
that's just ONE of those articles- notice the 30 tok isn't mentioned , as is the detonics , nor the roland- granted the tok and 30 mauser are almost identical- you also want to change to the "hook" ejector( the one with the long nose)
 
The photo may not show it but my 9mm conversion has about $3,000(US) in it. I paid a friend $1,000 for it, he had $2,500 in it; the pistol exhibited remarkable accuracy but it had reliability problems. I put another $500.00 into it including hard chrome by Virgil Tripp and work by Maryann Carniak and Ten Ring Precision. That is why I recommend buying a factory 9mm 1911.

Jebus, for that kinda money a fella could nearly have an STI Trojan in both 9mm and .45ACP.

BTW, Richard, nice to see you back posting on the site! :cool:

2007-10-27_091302_1aCoffee.gif

NAA.
 
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