1911 Help Please

Ganderite

Ganderite

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I tested my Para -Ord 14-45 with a new powder last week. My bullets were 175SWC & 200SWC. They fed smoothly and shot well.

Today I tried to use the same pistol in a CQB match and it would not feed a round from the mag. I thought it was because the bullets were SWC, but was puzzled because they had worked ok in the past.

Tonight I took it apart to clean it, and found the firing pin is protruding from the breech face. When the round feed, the rim is supposed to slide up the breech, under the extractor. The case hits the protruding pin and jams.

I have tried to push the firing pin back in, but it wont move.

Is it broken? How do I get it out of the pistol?

On the bottom of the slide there is a round pin that looks like it engages the extractor or the firing pin. It seems to be jammed.
 
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series 80? right?



2 possibilities, you firing pin spring is reduced or broken. and allows the firing pin to get stuck in the breech face, or the Series 80 pin is stuck on the grove on the firing pin on the backside.



when the button is depressed, the firing pin will move forward, is it out as the firing pin stuck? push the button in, and use a flathead screwdriver and push the firing ping back it should move back. without it flush to slide the firing pin won't move.

hope that helps.
 
This pistol has the Series 80 firingpin pin. I think it is the problem. It does not move when I push it. It is holding the firing pin forward. I would not have thought that possible. Maybe the firing pin has broken where the series 80 pin is.
 
Ganderite said:
No. It seems to be jammed. And the extractor won't come out either. Does the 80 pin pass thru a notch in the extractor, too?
Click to expand...

unfortunately yes.



I'm just guessing, but sounds like the series 80 pin is stuck against the firing pin holding it in place.

you either need to push the firing pin forward or backwards until the series 80 pin moves back to the safe position (down), then everything should disassemble properly.
 
get something to see if you can push the firing pin further into the breechface through the firing pin hole, that is all you may need to release the series 80 pin.

its being held in the "fire" position by something, either the firing pin, or some debris
the key thing is, you need the series 80 pin to drop down to its "safe" position
 
Phat Eagle said:
That sucks it bunged your match... This is why I only stick with Series 70s!
Click to expand...

that a freak malfunction, of 25+ years of shooting, first time I heard of it.

I personally like replacing the series 80 parts with a shim too, also makes the trigger crisper.
 
I think it is a flaw -- maybe dirt related or worn parts I have a para and Way back when (the information is fuzzy)
I had the plunger pin in the slide start marking up the the firing pin

I think i took the plunger pin out and replaced the firing pin
 
Ah the series 80 "safety"; the answer to a question nobody asked...
You can bypass it/remove it and put the gun back to the way browning designed it.
I specifically bought a 1911 model without it. Sacrilege to Browning it is and I'm sure he rolled in his grave they day they jammed that abortion into his design lol
 
An armourer's prospective...

I run a Inland M1911A1 'Government', with Series 80 innards....

With the firing pin protruding, you should be able to slide off the firing pin stop, BUT be careful, wear safety glass as the FP and spring are under pressure. If the FP is still protruding, invert the slide and place the base of the slide on a hard surface with a towel under it, and using a wood dowel, or a brass drift, gently tap the FP, and that should bring it out.

Once the FP is out, the extractor can be removed along with the firing pin plunger and spring.
 
1feral1 said:
An armourer's prospective...

I run a Inland M1911A1 'Government', with Series 80 innards....

With the firing pin protruding, you should be able to slide off the firing pin stop, BUT be careful, wear safety glass as the FP and spring are under pressure. If the FP is still protruding, invert the slide and place the base of the slide on a hard surface with a towel under it, and using a wood dowel, or a brass drift, gently tap the FP, and that should bring it out.

Once the FP is out, the extractor can be removed along with the firing pin plunger and spring.
Click to expand...

I follow what you say, but what about the 80 pin? If it is shoved all the way in, does it not block both the extractor and the firing pin?
 
You mean the FP plunger? If its still stuck (it's spring loaded), time for some WD40 action, let it soak, then place the slide on a firm base like it was sitting on the frame, with a towel again underneath, and use a plastic or wood mallet and tap the slide to dislodge it. A spring and plunger should come out.

If the plunger is depressed, the FP should (technically) be pressed, and strike the primer. Once the FP, plunger and spring are removed, the extractor comes out.

when you do get the plunger out, after a clean, it's best to apply some grease to the spring and plunger to prevent any corrosion.
 
Ganderite said:
If the firing pin is broken, can I replace it with a 70 firing pin, and just remove the 80 slide pin?
Click to expand...

I removed that stuff from a Norinco NP-40. No problem for the slide part but I had to put a shim in the frame to keep other parts in place.
It should be the sear in your case; I used a short roll of spring but Brownells has little plates for the 1911: "1911-series-80-to-series-70-conversion-shims-prod13121".

From a discussion I had with a gunsmith, I could have been fine leaving the frame alone; but most people want all extra springs out for better trigger pull.

Now to get the plunger out, please don't use WD40, which is not a lubricant and can gum. By any chance does the hole go all the way to the rear sights? you could tap it out.
If not I would try inertia by tapping the bottom of the slide with a piece of wood or a mallet (FP and extractor should be in a postition allowing th plunger to go out first).

You are not the first one to experience the problem if you look at Google "stuck series 80 safety".
That link is interesting: http://americanhandgunner.com/series-hysteria-80/
 
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