1911 Help Please
- Thread starter Ganderite
- Start date
Very good video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jmg_5f9tWrA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i6H1tUP6IwM
It looks like if I remove the plunger, the gun will work just fine.
If my FP is broken, can I use a Series 70 FP?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jmg_5f9tWrA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i6H1tUP6IwM
It looks like if I remove the plunger, the gun will work just fine.
If my FP is broken, can I use a Series 70 FP?
please don't use WD40, which is not a lubricant and can gum.
It's good to use as a handy penetrator, as specified in my post, the area was then to be cleaned out, with light grease applied to the plunger and spring to prevent this happening again.
I do hope the OP removes all series 80 components and sticks with the original proven design
Yes, as long as you remove all the 80 series 'safety' parts and install a shim you would be good to go with a 70 series FP. It'll probably improve the trigger pull as well.
Spoke to my gunsmith and followed gis instructions. By wiggling and jiggling and pulling on the 80 safety block, the pin came out. Then I was able to pullout the firing pin and extractor and clean up. There was a lot of gunge.
he said I could leave the safety black out, but there was a danger the finger on the trigger lever would jam in the safety hole, so the little lever should be removed, too. He said there was no need of a shim because the hammer was located and could not move on the hammer pin. I took the lever out and he was right. The hammer can't shift.
He said the other way to do it is to remove the safety black and clip the part of he elver that lifts up.
he said I could leave the safety black out, but there was a danger the finger on the trigger lever would jam in the safety hole, so the little lever should be removed, too. He said there was no need of a shim because the hammer was located and could not move on the hammer pin. I took the lever out and he was right. The hammer can't shift.
He said the other way to do it is to remove the safety black and clip the part of he elver that lifts up.
Glad you got it sorted Gander, and thanks to the individual who posted detailed pics of series 80 safety controls. The only series 80 1911's I have are GSG 1911s (and it was a long time before I realized that the additional parts on the alloy .22 were in fact series 80 safeties used on other 1911s)
I think that I will avoid the series 80 1911s if I can (aside from the .22) just because of the potential issues Ganderite has encountered during a match (sucks! I know him to be a good shot with just about anything).
For those who already own a series 80, it's good to know that the parts can be removed and a fairly simple conversion back to series 70 is possible without a smith and his lathe.
I think that I will avoid the series 80 1911s if I can (aside from the .22) just because of the potential issues Ganderite has encountered during a match (sucks! I know him to be a good shot with just about anything).
For those who already own a series 80, it's good to know that the parts can be removed and a fairly simple conversion back to series 70 is possible without a smith and his lathe.
glad you figure out the problem.
You can make a shim to replace the series 80 parts with thin washers, or some pistolsmiths have the complete part that fills in the series 80 cutouts for around $10
a second choice is leave the plunger out, and on the upper series 80 part, using a grinder, shave off the finger sticking out. Therefore removing the chance of it getting stuck in the series 80 hole in the slide.
You can make a shim to replace the series 80 parts with thin washers, or some pistolsmiths have the complete part that fills in the series 80 cutouts for around $10
a second choice is leave the plunger out, and on the upper series 80 part, using a grinder, shave off the finger sticking out. Therefore removing the chance of it getting stuck in the series 80 hole in the slide.
