1911 jamming on ejection (Now with pics)

Buckbrush may be onto something :) Is there an ejector in place? If so, is it binding on the slide? The Norinco spring is fine for factory ammo. A note - ANY sort of grip is OK - the gun is not reliable if you have to grip it like a vise. The extractor needs tuning for tension for best results. Another writer noted when he had ejection problems they were cured by changing mags. Hmmm - it wasn't necessarily the mags! If your extractor is loose, a mag with a stiff spring will help push the empty out and mask the problem. A test for proper extractor tension is to fire the gun (as Ljungmann suggested :) with the mag out. A weak grip by the extractor immediately shows up by ejecting empies out the mag well onto your shoe! Another symptom is the last empty out of the gun lying there on top of the mag...If that is happening to your 1911, time to check extractor tension!

Ljungmann, you and I spoke earlier and if needed, give me a call. It's likely something simple and very basic :) But first, lube the hell out of the gun, try that, then try firing with no mag, to eliminate that. We can safely say ammo is not the culprit. How cold was it? Cold oil (minus twenty or so...) will make these guns VERY sluggish. Do you have too much tension on the center sear spring leaf? Whan you hold the trigger back, you should be able to depress the disconnector by hand. If not, it really slows up the slide. If it actually butts up to the bottom of the disconnector, it can lock things up. This happens sometimes with Paras, as the slot that holds the sear spring in place is too low on them. A standard 1911 sear spring can really cause you grief in a Para Ordnance. Can you easily cycle the slide with the trigger pulled, hard? Is the slide stop binding? Try cycling the slide with the slide stop out (don't try firing it like that :) You need to paly CSI - eliminate as many things as you can, then call :)

Gunnar
www.armco-guns.com
 
Yes, I have an ejector in place:D

I may have too much tenshion on the spring leaf, I'll try reducing it.

What do you mean by the ejector binding?

I can cycle easily with the trigger pulled or not. I will test with the mag removed today too. If nothing helps I'll give you a call:D
 
If a picture's worth 1000 words.....

a.jpg

b.jpg

c.jpg

d.jpg


These were taken after a shot with the mag removed so the mag isn't the problem.
 
Didn't actually see it spelled out here so I'll ask, will it cycle a full or partial mag through by HAND only? If that works, do you have a recoil guide buffer pad (Shok-buf, for example) installed? If not, one thought is that the ejector's too long and it's trying to shove your spent case out before it clears the chamber.
 
pengfire said:
Didn't actually see it spelled out here so I'll ask, will it cycle a full or partial mag through by HAND only? If that works, do you have a recoil guide buffer pad (Shok-buf, for example) installed? If not, one thought is that the ejector's too long and it's trying to shove your spent case out before it clears the chamber.

If i load a full mag and cycle by hand: flawless

No buffer. Stock 1911a1

The slide dosen't come back far enough for the ejector to even start to pass the slideface so the ejector never gets to mack contact with the casing.
 
Oy! I assume you can just pull the slide back and have it pop out now? If a weaker spring/lube job doesn't cut it, I knew of one case where the barrel was binding on the barrel bushing (old barrel, new bushing). Would fire a couple of shots, warm up and then stick. Another two cents - maybe worth the same as the last two...
 
Lube don't help so I've come to two possiblities:

1.) The spring is too strong. So, I have new, lighter springs on the way that will fix my problem.

2.) It's something other than the spring. No one knows. Thus...I'm screwed. I hope it's number 1.

The spent brass is a little harder to extract than live rounds, but I take this as normal as the brass swells anyway correct?
 
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Yes thats correct about the brass. I had a 1911 that seemed to have a similar problem as yours, It would basicaly stovepipe everytime... So I made the loads warmer, and used a lighter spring(did not fix it)... Turned out it was my extractor tension(to weak) It would eject empties, and live rounds by hand even. Since you asembled it from parts... It could be a lockup/timing issue. Im just throwing some ideas out there... I don't realy know what im talking about lol.
 
When my 1911 .45 spring was starting to weaken, I had FTE with some stovepipes on only the last or second last rounds. After changing the spring, I've got it functioning well again.
 
If I understand this correctly, when fired it is not even moving the slide back more than shown in the pictures? That is, it's not a question of the slide going all of the way back and then returning to show what we see in the pictures, but that what we see is how far the slide actually travels during recoil after a shot?

If so, and the gun cycles by hand, I would have to assume that it's a serious timing issue, although I'm not a 1911 smith. I would recommend going to the 1911 forum and posting in the Gunsmithing & Troubleshooting section:

http://forums.1911forum.com/

When it comes to the 1911, they have a lot of expertise available. Do a search for the problem before posting and you may find your answer without even needing to go beyond that.
 
Freedom Ventures said:
Lap - "Lapping Compound" - an abrasive lubricant that you insert between the two moving metal parts (ie slide and frame) and them move the metal parts so they wear in together. You then wash out the lapping compound thoroughly and things fit better.

Caution - a little at a time is the way to proceed - metal can't be put back on...

Brownells sells compound but you might also be able to find it at a machine shop that does engine rebuilds.

When I got my SVI it was hanging up on the back end...

I removed all th oil...lubed it up with tooth paste and racked it about 200 times...worked like a charm. The ttoth paste is kust ebrasive enough to do the trick (warning...won't work on plating, bluing or stainless only)
 
EdGCNM said:
If I understand this correctly, when fired it is not even moving the slide back more than shown in the pictures? That is, it's not a question of the slide going all of the way back and then returning to show what we see in the pictures, but that what we see is how far the slide actually travels during recoil after a shot?

If so, and the gun cycles by hand, I would have to assume that it's a serious timing issue, although I'm not a 1911 smith. I would recommend going to the 1911 forum and posting in the Gunsmithing & Troubleshooting section:

http://forums.1911forum.com/

When it comes to the 1911, they have a lot of expertise available. Do a search for the problem before posting and you may find your answer without even needing to go beyond that.

Yep, that's as far as it comes back:(
 
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