1911 or NP58?

I have a 1911 and just love the gun and the calibre. 45 is the calibre to shoot if you reload. 9 mm if you do not. lots of 40 available due to it being the popular calibre for law enforcement.
 
I have done several trigger jobs on rifles in the past. I machine my parts myself and am used to polishing triggers and sears. I have never worked on a 1911 and did not know how much work Armco does to them. Is it worth the extra $150 or should I do it myself?[/QUOTE

After I watch those video, I don't even dare to try :p I guess that $150 dollors for the gunsmith is well worth every single pennies.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sOfKdYNs1R4

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nIemTq9Kmxw

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tcT7ysQ6a3Q

Hope this help

Trigun
 
I have done several trigger jobs on rifles in the past. I machine my parts myself and am used to polishing triggers and sears. I have never worked on a 1911 and did not know how much work Armco does to them. Is it worth the extra $150 or should I do it myself?

IMO, not worth it. That is half of what my 1911s cost. Yes, I bought them almost new for 300 bucks, from local CGNners.

Many guys will not like what I will say because many like to accessorize their toys. Not me. Start with a Sport model or a new Commander. These two models will have the all important beavertail grip safety as well as the ring hammer. I like the sights on the Sport better, though.

You can have fun with either without puttting in more money. On my Sport, the only change I made was to replace the arched mainspring housing with a plastic Colt flat MSH I found in the parts bin. That's because I have smaller and skinnier hands. I will grind down the original arched MSH of my other Norkies when I got the time.

A totally stock Norinco has some sharp edges (so what?) and quite dirty inside.

Do a 100% complete strip down and clean all grease and metal debris inside, don't bother with the rough and sharp edges unless you want to retouch or refinish the bluing.

Read up on the 1911's principle of operation so you'll understand how each part functions in relation to the others.

Many shooters like a crisp, creepless trigger with no overtravel, so do I. Four of the five, tuned 1911s I had in the past had McCormick hammer/sear/triggers and they were essential for me at the time due to IPSC, etc.

But for a 1911 newbie, just start with a totally stock Norkie and spend the $150 on reloading components or equipment. Get someone who knows proper 1911 technique to teach you trigger control, stance, how to grip and shoot it. You'll be a better shooter for it.

Dry fire that stock trigger 100 times a night using proper technique and follow through (observe all safety rules-all guns are always loaded-no exceptions). At the range, dryfire 50 times before shooting live rounds. If you shoot and deliver bad groups, dry fire 50 times again before going back to live. Takes discipline but it will pay off.

The trigger will smooth out over time but will likely never approach the feel of an Armco trigger job. That's ok because by then you will have become an expert 1911 gunner anyways. The big advantage of a light and crisp trigger is useful only for the shooting sports where double taps are common, IMO.
 
Thanks for all the great advice guys! After doing some research and talking with some great nutz on here I have decided to get a stock pistol and do the work myself. I will be sure to practice and put several hundred rounds downrange before I make any changes. I will probably go with the Sport model for the better sights, ambi safety and longer barrel than the commander. Lets hope my Rpal gets here soon. In the meantime I am going to start picking up what I need for reloading and keep teasing myself by shooting my friends Kimber. I should be posting about my new 1911 in January. I doubt my Rpal and a restricted transfer would all happen before Christmas. So much for Santa bringing me a special present this year. Thanks again for all the help!

Cheers!
 
I'm not sure if you've made you decision yet but I have both... like them both. No preference, just different tools for different applications. 1911 a bit pricier to run but easier on setup costs and reloading(I have big fingers... it matters, trust me).

I hear all kinds of bs about Norc quality and while their previous offering have been lacking the most recent ones are in my mind a reasonable deal, for all kinds of reasons which I won't bore you with here. That said perhaps some gun#### will help give you a direction. Both of these were purchaced for site sponsors within the last 6 months (as of Dec 2010) and I couldn't be happier with both.

The 1911 A1-C .45 cal. 2-1/2 lbs pull with 1/2 an hour of trigger work.

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The NP58 in .40 cal

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For me the 1911 feel a bit better in my hand and is more natural to shoot. The Sig P226 copy is a bit more to handle for some reason, although last night at the range a guy next to me picked it up never handling one before (he tried using the slide break down lever as the slide lock:p but ended up putting 5 rounds inside of half a pack of cigarettes from 15 m so it can't first time up so it can't be that bad of a pistol. Base on what I heard of Norc grips I ordered and installed Hogues but while the holes lined up, I found the decocker a bit on the tight side for my liking and more difficult to actuate so I went back to the Norc grips which were just fine.

Don't get me wrong, it's no Sig. It's better in a few ways. Better slide steel, better warranty, and about a 1/3 of the cost without getting someone eles 2nd hand refurbished one.
 
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