1911 POI Questions

mmattockx

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I have a Norc NP-29 (9mm 1911) that has been worked over by DLask. It is a beautiful gun that functions flawlessly, but I consistently shoot it to the left. I know this typically means I am pulling the pistol on trigger break or using too much trigger finger. I have tried multiple grip positions, using just the very tip of my finger on the trigger, etc. Nothing seems to really affect POI, except a loose grip will raise the POI noticeably. I also shoot an NP-34 (Sig 228 clone) and a Ruger 22/45. With both of those, I consistently get nice groups centered around the bull with no left POI issues. The one thing I do notice is that the 1911 trigger is a long reach for me. Can this be easily switched out to a shorter trigger (as in no gunsmith involved) and would a shorter trigger likely help me pull my groups on target?

Thanks,
Mark
 
Freedom Ventures would likely be able to get you the STI carbon fibre trigger in short length. Dlask makes a nice short trigger too. You can also order a trigger from Brownells.
 
"...trigger is a long reach for me..." That'll do it. The new short trigger will require fitting and the trigger job re-done though.
 
I think its probably that Chi-com barrel. Had heard instances where the barrel is actually drilled off center.

And here I thought they had banned Hatman... Go back to whatever rock you crawled out from under and spew your garbage somewhere else. Still looking for that Chinese super carrier?


"...trigger is a long reach for me..." That'll do it. The new short trigger will require fitting and the trigger job re-done though.

That was what I was afraid of. I will contact DLask and maybe Gunnar and see what the timeframe and cost will be.

Thanks,
Mark
 
"If it's broken then you can't break it any further"

If you're pretty sure it's the trigger reach by this time what about strip down the gun and then hacksaw, grind, Dremel, file or just plain ol' gnaw away some of the trigger shoe so it's a shorter reach on the one you have?

To do this I'd suggest you clear the gun first then pull the trigger back and mark the extent of the frame on the side of the trigger as a guide for how far back you can go. Then just sketch in the shape of the finger saddle farther back on the shoe but about 2 to 3 mm forward of the penciled in frame limit or split the difference between the existing saddle line and the frame line, whichever is greater. Then hack away at it with your favourite method and finish it off with an assortment of fine stones and sandpaper to polish it. Go try it. If it's still not far enough back do it again. Just don't cut it back so far that it ends up burying the curve into the frame slot. If you do that you won't be able to pull it far enough. You want to maintain a couple of mm's of shoe even when fully pulled so that the pad of your finger can't touch the actual frame.

This is a pretty simple bit of metal working and by doing this in stages and trying the gun you can tune it to suit yourself much more than sending it to someone that doesn't truly know how big your hand is and what the reach looks like. If you're local to someone that knows their 1911 or you know a few folks that can shoot them well then have them advise you or look at their finger angle as they shoot and see what is different about their hold vs your hold. That should also give you some info on how far to trim back your existing trigger.
 
Remarkable, all of this technology and we're still stuck with this sh*t :jerkit:

Ian, thanks for the support. There has to be one dickhead in every group and we got Hatman...

Anyway, I will be going to the range this weekend with the 1911 and taking a couple of sandbags with me to try it off a rest and hopefully eliminate any wobbles I am inducing. Any tips for benching a pistol? I have never tried it off a rest before, anything to avoid or watch out for in the setup? Rest the pistol butt on the bags, the front of the frame, my hands, what?

If it still shoots left, I will tweak the sights. If it shoots straight, then I will get some help from some of the experienced IDPA guys at my range and see if I can overcome the problem with grip/technique changes. If that fails, the trigger will get changed out.

Thanks to all for the constructive replies,
Mark
 
Personally, I'd rest as much as possible. Keep in mind that the idea is to remove as much of the shooter from the equation as possible, and to press the trigger in as straight a line as possible. You may find the sights are slightly off. Also, there are no points for style :)D) , so you may look a little awkward doing it, but as long as the pistol is as supported as you can get it, you're good. As far as the comment about the barrel goes, I was tempted to replace the barrel in my Norc Compact, until it dumped seven rounds into a ragged two inch hole at 20 yards, less than a quarter inch low - if it ain't broke......
 
"...trigger is a long reach for me..." That'll do it. The new short trigger will require fitting and the trigger job re-done though.

No, it won't, the trigger on a 1911 is entirely separate from the sear, and in every one I've ever built is a plug and play unit.

Buy your favorite style of short trigger, and drop it in, not overly difficult. Hell, buy somebody's original Norc, I bet they'd just give it to you. They're very short, Dlask probably has extras anyhow. I'm presuming that you have some sort of after market trigger in at the moment, extended reach.
 
I have a Norc NP-29 (9mm 1911) that has been worked over by DLask. It is a beautiful gun that functions flawlessly, but I consistently shoot it to the left. I know this typically means I am pulling the pistol on trigger break or using too much trigger finger. I have tried multiple grip positions, using just the very tip of my finger on the trigger, etc. Nothing seems to really affect POI, except a loose grip will raise the POI noticeably. I also shoot an NP-34 (Sig 228 clone) and a Ruger 22/45. With both of those, I consistently get nice groups centered around the bull with no left POI issues. The one thing I do notice is that the 1911 trigger is a long reach for me. Can this be easily switched out to a shorter trigger (as in no gunsmith involved) and would a shorter trigger likely help me pull my groups on target?

Thanks,
Mark


if you're shooting a consistent group, why don't you try adjusting the rear site so your group is centered around the bull?? i have a norc commander and for whatever reason, it groups a bit to the right of the bull using either hand. so, a few minutes with a brass drift next time i'm at the range, and i should be right on the money.
 
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