1911 Slide Stop Hole wear

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StainlessFan

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Hey Guys,

Just wondering if this kind of wear is normal on a slide stop hole, or if I am doing something wrong during reassembly... The pictures of used frames I have been able to find don't seem to have this kind of wear on the bottom of the hole, almost looking like something has gouged the bottom left corner...

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Is this something to be concerned about? I don't care about the aesthetics, the wear doesn't show when the gun is assembled, just wondering if this might cause problems in the future... I have only put 300 rounds through the gun.

Don't know if it's related, but after reassembling the gun the slide always locks back when I rack it for the first time...

Thanks!
 
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Don't know if it's related, but after reassembling the gun the slide always locks back when I rack it for the first time..
Click to expand...

Is that with a loaded mag, an empty mag or no mag ??
The only time it should lock open is with an empty mag .
 
probably machining marks...if it was wear it wouldn't be blued, it would have worn the finish off and be silver/grey. shoot on, it will probably look the same in 1000 rounds
 
plinker 777 said:
Nork? Check that the barrel link is correct (center to center measurement) against one that doesn't have issues.
Click to expand...

Yes it is one of the CanAm deal Norks, how would I check if the barrel link is correct?

Cocked&Locked said:
probably machining marks...if it was wear it wouldn't be blued, it would have worn the finish off and be silver/grey. shoot on, it will probably look the same in 1000 rounds
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It actually is silver or grey along the bottom of the hole, know it's hard to see in the pictures... Definitely looks like something has worn through the bluing.
 
colinjw said:
Is that with a loaded mag, an empty mag or no mag ??
The only time it should lock open is with an empty mag .
Click to expand...

With no mag... But only the very first time I rack the slide after reassembly, it's not every time though so I think maybe I was just accidentally pushing the slide stop up.

EDIT: I'm starting to think I might of caused the wear the first time I tried to reassemble the gun... It's my first 1911 and I remember it being really stiff to push in, might of put too much pressure on that corner.
 
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The slide stop should have a divot in the end of it- the plunger pops in it and keeps the arm from raising/engaging.
So, either;
-Your slide stop never had a divot machined into it (easy to do with a drill bit) or,
-After reassembly you might not have pushed the slide stop all the way in to engage the poppet plunger.

That would be my guess anyway...
 
I think the slide stop is machined properly, starting to think I probably just pushed it up accidentally when racking the slide... The pistol functioned perfectly when I took it to the range, slide locked back when the mag was empty.

I'm more worried with what looks like premature wear on the frame...
 
Your going to have to work hard to wear out a norc frame their not the best looking but their tough id say your gun is fine.
 
With the mag removed, slide closed, slowly move the slide to its open position. If it remains open on its own, knock, tap, shake the slide to see if you can jog the (what I think might be) jammed barrel from its bushing (wrong link/ poorly made link out of spec). If that doesn't work and the slide won't close on its own, push the slide forward. If its still jammed then rack the slide (sling shot hold) back and forth.
Check for strange wear marks at the bushing/barrel fit and around the link (oblong holes), also around the locking lugs and slide. Here all machining should be squared corners, no battered surfaces going in and out of engagement.
 
plinker 777 said:
With the mag removed, slide closed, slowly move the slide to its open position. If it remains open on its own, knock, tap, shake the slide to see if you can jog the (what I think might be) jammed barrel from its bushing (wrong link/ poorly made link out of spec). If that doesn't work and the slide won't close on its own, push the slide forward. If its still jammed then rack the slide (sling shot hold) back and forth.
Check for strange wear marks at the bushing/barrel fit and around the link (oblong holes), also around the locking lugs and slide. Here all machining should be squared corners, no battered surfaces going in and out of engagement.
Click to expand...

I don't see any wear marks, I think the slide stop might be just too loose... It seems as though it locks back when my trigger finger is pressing against the slide stop, if I rack it slowly the slide stop will start to come out and the slide will lock up near the take down notch. If I lightly tap the slide stop it snaps back into the proper position, and the pistol goes into battery.

Does this sound normal? The gun ran without a hitch the other day, put 300 through it with only one FTF which I think is due to a light recoil spring...
 
025wwi.jpg


For a frame of reference (pun intended?) there's my Colt Government's frame with maybe 700 rounds through it.
 
mr00jimbo said:
025wwi.jpg


For a frame of reference (pun intended?) there's my Colt Government's frame with maybe 700 rounds through it.
Click to expand...

Thanks... Looks like a common wear spot on 1911s.

I just tried racking the slide while pushing very lightly against the slide stop and the pistol completely locked up with the slide stop partially pushed out of the frame just before the takedown notch... Had to smack the back of the slide hard with the butt of my hand before I could get it to move.

I think my slide stop is just way too loose... Or could my plunger spring be weak?
 
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