1911. To flare and lower or not???

McHoss

McHoss

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Ok, I’ve got a nice shooting, regular, run of the mill S.A.M. GI Commander 1911. It’s no Ed Brown or Cabot level pistol, but I like it. I also like doing work on it. So I’m wondering about lowering and flaring the ejection port. My question is whether I’d be better off enjoying it as is or does the ejection port work make it that much better. I have no concerns about doing the work myself, or how it will turn out. Just whether or not it’s worth the effort. It seems to me to be a significant improvement to all 1911s so......
And, because every post should have a picture, here you go....

View attachment 151543
 
Shoot it and see whether you have any problems with ejection of cases or whether cases are getting dinged on the way out of the port.A lot of how the gun handles ejection and need for lowering the port is how the extractor and ejector are set up
 
sevoman said:
Shoot it and see whether you have any problems with ejection of cases or whether cases are getting dinged on the way out of the port.A lot of how the gun handles ejection and need for lowering the port is how the extractor and ejector are set up
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Actually, that’s exactly why I want to do the mod. I have tuned the extractor and ejector and replaced the recoil spring with an 18lbs one. The firing pin stop is flat bottomed with a slight radius. Initially I had badly damaged brass with major deforming at the throat. Now 99% of the casings have minor dings in the same location. So it’s better but not perfect. I have read that GI slides do this unless the port is opened up.
 
"If'n it ain't broke, fix it till it is".

You say that your brass is still getting dinged. That suggests that the problem has not been fully addressed.

The lowering and flaring of 1911 ejection ports has long been considered a 'must do' for .45 ACP reloaders. That's why most non-GI models come that way. You can DIYS if you are a good hand with a Dremel and some files. I'm sure there are you tube videos that 'splain how to do it.

Is your gun plated or stainless? If plated, you might want to keep it as is unless you're prepared to have the slide refinished.
 
I had a milspec type 1911 that I installed a reduced radius firing pin stop (as JMB originally specified) on and it seemed to raise the trajectory of the ejected rounds upwards enough that a high port would never be an issue.

It also seemed to dampen some of the felt recoil.

It was considerable harder to rack the slide however, which is appearantly the reason why they went to the now standard rounded firing pin stop.
 
Import said:
Yea..agree..don’t mess with a 1911 that’s runnng well...
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That sums what the other colleagues said.
A 1911 was dubbed reliable if it rattled.
Today, it must be tight.
Lots of folklore about firearms (well, like other hobbies).
I just received a brand new Colt Gold Cup Trophy, model 2017.
The ejector is long because it is said to eject faster in competition.
The ejector kept bending, causing the slide to freeze.
Back home, the dremel did its job and shortened the ejector about 1/8".
The thing worked like a charm at yesterday' IPSC competition.
By the way, "ejecting faster" ? did not notice a slow-down.
 
I knew a guy who used to f*** with his 1911 until it stops running. Fix it and f*** with it again. Rinse and repeat.

Fixing it was his hobby.
 
skoal said:
Who are you kidding your just gunna change something else to scratch that itch.
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LMAO. There is a very good chance of that. I love to tinker. And 1911’s are great for that. Media blasting has crossed my mind. Maybe do some blending and shaping here and there and recess the bottom of the trigger guard. I would like to try checkering the front strap but you only get one crack at that. If it turns out poorly you’re hooped.
 
870P said:
I had a milspec type 1911 that I installed a reduced radius firing pin stop (as JMB originally specified) on and it seemed to raise the trajectory of the ejected rounds upwards enough that a high port would never be an issue.

It also seemed to dampen some of the felt recoil.

It was considerable harder to rack the slide however, which is appearantly the reason why they went to the now standard rounded firing pin stop.
Click to expand...

I was considering doing so, but now, considering target shooting is my prime pastime with my pistol, I am beginning to "work down" my loads and will be experimenting with lighter semi-wadcutter bullets as well.
 
My Colt Government ate the odd case until I increased the extractor tension. Now it will still ding the case mouths, but not to the point that the dies won't iron them out, so it's a non-issue for me.

I've never heard of a reduced radius firing pin stop, unless that's the same as what always seems to come up in 10mm 1911 discussions?
 
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