1913 lee enfield
- Thread starter gerard488
- Start date
- Location
- WMU248 near Edmonton
I would think that would be a high end price.
A SMLE made 1913 that has all its original parts is a rare bird, and valuable. These simply got used up. One that was refurbished in service would be less valuable. Restoring a 1913 rifle to correct 1913 configuration would be an interesting challenge. Restoring one to generic military configuration would be easier. Value for a sported rifle? $200 might be a bit high, unless the surviving metal parts are in really nice original condition.
Rare, yes. Worth $200, no. $150, maybe. Get proof of good headspace before you buy it too. Sporterized Lee-Enfields tend to have bad headspace. Even if it has matching numbers. Fixing it and restoring one will be expensive and time consuming as well.
Mustangs should not be yellow either. Geezuz! snicker.
Mustangs should not be yellow either. Geezuz! snicker.
- Location
- WMU248 near Edmonton
and its going to get how many BTT and price reductions before it sells???
I picked up 4 sporters a couple of months ago from my LGS that was closing down, a CLLE a 1915 BSA MkIII* a Mk1 MLE & a 1918 EFD MkIII* all for $40 all with mags & bolts, 1 stuffed barrel 2 good & one that needs a good clean to see condition, i have no plans to restore them, they will be stripped for parts, i might have concidered the CLLE as a project but the Lhs of the receiver has been milled down & multiple holes drilled for a side mount 
Just for comparison purposes, I sold an all original, matching 1911 dated No1 MkIII with cut off etc. The rifle was 90% inside and out.
This was about a year ago at the Chilliwack two day HACS show.
I put $800 on it and settled for $750. It didn't make it past the first hour after opening time.
I also had a 1913 that was cut as you described. That was a common conversion and may even have been done commercially. Some of these conversions had the name of a store or the company that did the work stamped on the barrel just after the rear sight. This rifle was so marked with some hardware company. If not for the conversions and the stamp, the rifle looked to be 100%. I bought it at a yard sale for $75. I sold it at the show for $100. IMHO, that is all it was worth. As a parts rifle, it was worth more than that and the fellow I sold it to was going to strip it for parts. He kept sniveling about the stamping on the barrel. I told him to write a letter to Anne Landers. She will answer about as fast as the company. No sense crying about this stuff. It is what it is.
This was about a year ago at the Chilliwack two day HACS show.
I put $800 on it and settled for $750. It didn't make it past the first hour after opening time.
I also had a 1913 that was cut as you described. That was a common conversion and may even have been done commercially. Some of these conversions had the name of a store or the company that did the work stamped on the barrel just after the rear sight. This rifle was so marked with some hardware company. If not for the conversions and the stamp, the rifle looked to be 100%. I bought it at a yard sale for $75. I sold it at the show for $100. IMHO, that is all it was worth. As a parts rifle, it was worth more than that and the fellow I sold it to was going to strip it for parts. He kept sniveling about the stamping on the barrel. I told him to write a letter to Anne Landers. She will answer about as fast as the company. No sense crying about this stuff. It is what it is.
But it's still just a $600 rifle, even if the price tag says 1 billion.
- Location
- Tucson, Arizona
One problem with a chopped forend on a 1913 rifloe is you are going to need the volley sights. That means you need the earlier forend and those extra bits.
I'm restoring a No1Mk3 (no star) currently. The only way to get the proper, "pot-bellied" forend is to buy it from the UK for some $300. Not an original, a repro. No way. Numrich has some "regular" forends, inletted for the volley sight, for $60... So mine's not going to be super accurately de-sporterized, but at least my piggy bank won't be shattered either.
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you will also need the pressure pad and spring that fits under the barrel to reduce harmonics.
