1943 TNT box
- Thread starter FriendlyStranger
- Start date
That's pretty sweet! Need to find pics of one in better condition.
Should I try to preserve it? I don't know how common they are.
Last edited:
- Location
- land of f-cktards
Got one myself , they are not uncommon the hasp on it is aftermarket
Thank you, I'll spray some WD40 on it and leave it as it is. It's all rust on the inside.
Made mine that way, just a touch of weld, perfect for ammo storage. Secure and damned heavy to haul when it's full.
Grizz
Cottage Hill Bill
CGN Regular
- Location
- Pensacola, FL USA
WD40 is not a rust preventative. It will evaporate and leave the item unprotected. Use a different product like RIG (Rust Inhibiting Grease) or even a wax like Minwax paste wax.
Hi, You have an ammunition box, they a relatively common and not much market value, but I will never sell the ones I have !
Some gentle work with a couple of wooden blocks and a heavy hammer will square things up. On metal I us a product called “Kramer’s Best Antique Restorer”. This is a formulation of natural turpentine, vinegar, waxes etc. This stuff is absolutely terrific on gun stocks and metal to remove dirt grease and rust (slowly for rust). The patina and paint finish are completely retained and protected. You have to mail order this stuff. A reasonable alternative though not as good is a wipe down with a damp microfibre, dry completely and a thin coat of floor paste wax, well worked in, then remove as much as you can.
This will make the paint come back to life and when used inside. Mine have put real character in my work shop. Have fun, show us the results!
Some gentle work with a couple of wooden blocks and a heavy hammer will square things up. On metal I us a product called “Kramer’s Best Antique Restorer”. This is a formulation of natural turpentine, vinegar, waxes etc. This stuff is absolutely terrific on gun stocks and metal to remove dirt grease and rust (slowly for rust). The patina and paint finish are completely retained and protected. You have to mail order this stuff. A reasonable alternative though not as good is a wipe down with a damp microfibre, dry completely and a thin coat of floor paste wax, well worked in, then remove as much as you can.
This will make the paint come back to life and when used inside. Mine have put real character in my work shop. Have fun, show us the results!
Fairly common here, excellent condition, British Army brown. Brits train at Suffield and create a bunch of ammo cans for the surplus market.
Grizz
stencollector
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- shilo MB, the armpit of Canada
Impressive! Have you gotten to shoot either one?
Those are bad ass! Thank you for preserving history!
stencollector
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- shilo MB, the armpit of Canada
No, and it will likely never happen. When you get into the big guns, there are a lot more considerations, and much, much bigger consequences when something goes wrong or is missed. The force of lobbing 25 pounds of steel downrange is considerable. The recoil mechanisms must be serviced and functional. Both my barrels and breech rings had cuts on them, and even though repaired, the likely weaknesses to those components, whether on the first shot or the 25th shot, are not something I want to discover. Both guns will be able to blank fire, since the pressures and recoil are minimal in that use. Also, to add to the dangers of live fire, are the propellants and primers. There were two deaths in the US a couple years ago from the over-pressure in a tank mounted gun, when the owner and his guest were experimenting with different mixes of powders. I believe it was to overcome the lack of proper primers and some resulting hangfires, so they layered black powder with the normal propellant. It worked too well.
I am happy enough just to own the guns. The need to see these cannons live fire is not something worth dying over. I saw enough guns fire in my time attached to the artillery here.
