1955 Mosin Nagant - Questions

johNTO

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I just picked up a 1955 Polish M44:) It has matching numbers on the barrel shank, bolt, and butt plate. It appears to have been a safe queen and never been fired. The only thing that doesn't look original is the polished bayonet and "curved" down bolt arm.
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Questions:
1. From what little I know about these rifles, don't all the MN's bolt arms stick straight out?

2. What is the best position to have the bolt while in storage? ie. when the bolt has been pulled back, isn't the firing pin spring under stress?

I'm new to military surplus rifles and bolt actions so please excuse my ignorance. I'm sure I'll have more questions in the future....thanks!
 
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It seems that Bubba has gotten a hold of the rifle. The bolt should not be bent and the bayonet should be richly blued, not polished. I store mine with the bolt open, otherwise it does not fit in my crowded safes.
 
Questions:
1. From what little I know about these rifles, don't all the MN's bolt arms stick straight out?

Do the numbers match on the bolt to the rest of the numbers on the rifle?
Is there a small square with a line running through it on a diagonal on one side of the butstock? If so then it is a refurbish (which is a good thing).

2. What is the best position to have the bolt while in storage? ie. when the bolt has been pulled back, isn't the firing pin spring under stress?

Some folks store them Bolt closed, easing the cocking knob down as they pull the trigger. Unloaded of course never do this with a unfired live round as it will fire!

While in a hunting camp... one guy I know who used modern non corrosive hunting ammo (Seller and Bellot) leaves the last fired cartridge in the chamber, and the rifle loaded in camp for Bear defence. (this is in BC). :D

On the way home he simply drops the rest of the unfired cartridges into his hat before getting back into his truck. :D

Others and more traditional types like to store open bolt with the bolt knob pulled out and twist it counter clock wise as one would put it on safety when the bolt is closed the bolt closed.

Some pics here...
http://7.62x54r.net/MosinID/MosinRacks.htm

I'm new to military surplus rifles and bolt actions so please excuse my ignorance. I'm sure I'll have more questions in the future....thanks!

Welcome to the world of Mosins! :)
And here is a great page for more info...

http://7.62x54r.net/
 
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I just picked up a 1955 Polish M44:) It has matching numbers on the barrel shank, bolt, and butt plate. It appears to have been a safe queen and never been fired. The only thing that doesn't look original is the polished bayonetSomeone wanted some bling and "curved" down bolt arm.

Questions:
1. From what little I know about these rifles, don't all the MN's bolt arms stick straight out?Yes, only the sniper 91/30's had the bent bolt handles. Yours is probably a repro. They are alot easier to work the action with.

2. What is the best position to have the bolt while in storage? ie. when the bolt has been pulled back, isn't the firing pin spring under stress?Are you talking action closed and cocked? If yes, then fire off the action. You want the spring compressed the least amout posible. The spring is always under a certain amount of pressure in the bolt regardless of position. If your talking bolt open or closed well whatever fits in your safe better. (Someone will probaly have a different view on this, Im up for more edumcation :cool:) I usuall leave the bolt open, just so the bolt handle is not sticking way out against another gun in the safe.

I'm new to military surplus rifles and bolt actions so please excuse my ignorance. I'm sure I'll have more questions in the future....thanks!

Hope that helps a bit.
 
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2. What is the best position to have the bolt while in storage? ie. when the bolt has been pulled back, isn't the firing pin spring under stress?

It's under tension, but they're ridiculously strong. It would take decades to weaken enough to get misfires, and even then it's a two dollar part and simple to replace anyway. Look on youtube for a dozen good disassembly instructions.

Keep the bolt in the gun for storage, it's cheaper to have a ten dollar trigger lock than lose the bolt. There are alot of guns "cheap" on the exchange, except they're missing the bolt or the magazine.

Don't worry about dry firing. I dry fire mine almost daily, and have since I've owned it, as dedicated target shooters are prone to do. Haven't had a breakage, and don't expect to, but like I said, parts are cheap. Even if I did snap a firing pin every single week, it would still be cheaper than firing live ammo for practice, which I do every weekend during the summer.
 
Don't worry about dry firing. I dry fire mine almost daily, and have since I've owned it, as dedicated target shooters are prone to do. Haven't had a breakage, and don't expect to, but like I said, parts are cheap. Even if I did snap a firing pin every single week, it would still be cheaper than firing live ammo for practice, which I do every weekend during the summer.

Keep in mind the context for which these rifles were designed. Millions of peasants having to use these in the worst conditions. I do believe dry-firing had to be part of the "what ifs" list...
 
Thanks for the quick responses!....

Like I said, I know very little about these rifles but I'm loving mine so far. Can't wait to get some ammo and send some downrange!
Dar701, I've read about this guy Bubba. Is he related to Murphy?:rolleyes:
Anyway, I actually like the looks of the polished bayo and the action of the curved bolt arm.
Calum, yes the numbers all match (bolt, barrel shank, butt plate). There's an OW inside a diamond stamped on the butstock and a 11 inside an oval on the barrel knox.
I looked really close at the bend on the bolt. The smith who bent it did a really nice factory looking job.
I'm not a collector so the changes don't bother me. I got the rifle to shoot and fondel;). Also, good to know I can dry fire it once in awhile and that I can store it with the bolt closed (with a trigger lock of course).

As far as cleaning the rifle after a day at the range, my understanding is I should do so within a couple hours and clean it like a black powder gun? I was told to Windex the bore and bolt. Swab it down and spray on some gun oil.
Any thoughts?

BTW...where can I get some 7.62 54R in the GTA?

Thanks again.
 
The "quick, quick, clean it noooowwww!" method is required when you use "corrosive" ammo (a lot of military surplus ammunition you'll find is corrosive).
 
I use a (well fitting) funnel, hot soapy water, rinse with more hot water, dry with a few patches or a barrel mop, and then spray and coat Ballistol oil.

Windex is just a quick method for the range, and ammonia only really helps break down copper residues. Hot water is what you need to flush out the corrosive salts.

Keep it simple. :)
 
Looks like I'll have to do my homework on corrosive vs non-corrosive ammo. ie. price/availability, etc.

Ok, so windex for the quick clean up at the range and when I get home I'll boil a kettle of water for tea and a soapy water mix for the corrosive salts.

Thanks again!
 
Thanks for the comments guys.

It would have been "nice" to have an all original rifle but the changes really don't bother me personally. However, it is a shame to bubba a "new" rifle but I think the changes were done tastefully and professionally.

Stovepipe669, I picked up the rifle at a range/shop here in the GTA. Actually it was the bling (polished bayo) that caught my eye as it sat there on the rack.
Gotta find some ammo now and a nice day to go to the range!
 
Is it possible this was a parade rifle?

Poles used (and still use) Russian SKS rifles with Polish Laminated stocks for parade duty.

Sigh. Sometimes Bubba has nice workmanship... still a shame to do to a minty rifle. Turns a 250 ish dollar rifle into a 125 dollar rifle...
 
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Sigh. Sometimes Bubba has nice workmanship... still a shame to do to a minty rifle. Turns a 250 ish dollar rifle into a 125 dollar rifle...

DAR 701, you've got a point...Turns a 250 ish dollar rifle into a 125 dollar rifle.. . I'd still be ok spending $250 ish compared to the $169 arsenal refurbished Russian ones with electropensiled parts to match and stocks that look like it's been dragged through a cow patch....all for $80-100 bucks less. I'm sure there's nothing wrong with them I even considered getting one but I'm happy to spend the extra bucks on this one. Heck...I've blown more in one night drinking with buddies at the local "ballet".
 
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The M44 is a much better buy than the SKS. That being said I have 2 1953 M44 carbines and 4 SKS rifles. The Polish M44 was the pinnacle of Mosin Nagant, richly blued and beautifully made. With handloads using the 174 grain SMK .311 bullet and IMR 4350 they are quite the little tack driving, flame spewing rifles! As long as you are happy with the rifle that is all that matters. If you never sell it then the resale hit from Bubba does not matter.
 
Aside for a polished bayonet and a turned down bolt (which was just as likely done in a Combloc arsenal) bubbah didn't do a bad job. :)
 
The M44 is a much better buy than the SKS. That being said I have 2 1953 M44 carbines and 4 SKS rifles. With handloads using the 174 grain SMK .311 bullet and IMR 4350 they are quite the little tack driving, flame spewing rifles!

This is my first rifle, my first bolt action, and my first military surplus. (Losts of firsts here) I've always wanted these three "things" and got them all in one rifle with a bayo as an added bonus!
I think I've got the mil surplus bug....now looking for a Tokarev TT and an SKS. Calum, if you're thinking about selling one of your 4 SKS.....
Great, now I'll have to start handloading!;) It never ends.
 
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